Jump to content

Exhaust flapper

thekevin

By thekevin
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

thekevin Enthusiast

thekevin

Posted
Posted

I clamped my exhaust flapper to what I think is open on my 2018 about a week ago. I can’t tel any difference in the exhaust note and I don’t get any choppering in 4cyl mode like I expected. I am thinking about just having it cut off.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted

I only noticed the difference at start up & idle with mine open. It is a restriction even when clamped open so should be better removed if the v 4 sound doesn't bother you.

Sent from my Moto Z2 Play using Tapatalk

thekevin Enthusiast

thekevin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would have thought I would hear the difference when the arm came on, but I can’t. Am I right in thinking that it is completely closed when the truck isn’t running.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bohanan23 Enthusiast

Bohanan23

Posted
Posted

It is still a pretty big valve. I opened mine. I can tell a little bit on a cold start. Little bit throatier. But cut it out. Even with it open it's a big restriction. Plus it'll sound a lot better with an aftermarket muffler

jaxcam02 Enthusiast

jaxcam02

Posted
Posted

I ordered the magnaflow exhaust for my truck, and it has the god damned flapper. I installed it already but I am cutting it out and using the extra supplied piece of piping that came with the kit to replace the piece of pipe where the flapper is. 

When I clamped the flapper open it left behind a real annoying highway drone. When I cut it out I will probably have to put a resonator on it to cancel that 115 hz drone between 1500 and 2000 RPMs.

jaxcam02 Enthusiast

jaxcam02

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, thekevin said:

That sucks because that is right where 90% of my driving is. I’m about 1700 rpm at 70mph.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

agreed, I'll probably end up building a j-pipe adjustable resonator to hit that frequency.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...