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Steering Wheel Kicks Back Hard

Ge0rge

By Ge0rge
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

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Ge0rge Enthusiast

Ge0rge

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Decided to take care of this issue myself. The driver side ground was 100% clear. The passenger side had this between the contact point. 

 

20190428_091324.jpg

Ge0rge Enthusiast

Ge0rge

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I found it near impossible to get to these points without taking out the speakers. For this entire job you will need a 10mm box wrench, 10mm deepwell socket, 7mm deepwell socket, 7mm socket, and a small 1/4" drive ratchet. You can also find the plastic clip removal tool as part of a set for $15 at advanced auto parts. I have big hands and found it a tad difficult because of this, took me about 40 mins. Thanks for everyone's help. 

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted
On 4/28/2019 at 8:20 AM, Ge0rge said:

I found it near impossible to get to these points without taking out the speakers. For this entire job you will need a 10mm box wrench, 10mm deepwell socket, 7mm deepwell socket, 7mm socket, and a small 1/4" drive ratchet. You can also find the plastic clip removal tool as part of a set for $15 at advanced auto parts. I have big hands and found it a tad difficult because of this, took me about 40 mins. Thanks for everyone's help. 

 

Glad it worked out for you! Yeah It sucks trying to get at those grounds. I bought a bunch of swivel and wobble parts for my socket set by the time I got done with it. 

 

If you still have problems there's a good chance its the battery. My original AC Delco battery was so weak that it started causing the truck to glitch and do all kinds of strange things. The early sign is that when you leave the truck's power on with the engine off, you get a battery low start engine warning after just a few minutes. The voltage meter will fluctuate quite a bit due to the way the charging system works.

 

Here's a helpful PDF for the electrical system. There's a section that explains how the K2xx truck's charging system works too (Starts on page 194).

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/761/Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2017_en_US.pdf

Ge0rge Enthusiast

Ge0rge

Posted
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I ran a test on the battery:

 

No key in ignition: 12.9v

Key on, but not started: 12.7v

Truck started: 15v

 

I have not seen any drops down below 11'ish. I am going to buy a new battery, but plan to install one made for audio with plenty of reserve capacity, but the cost is almost stupid. 

Paintor Enthusiast

Paintor

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Ge0rge said:

I ran a test on the battery:

 

No key in ignition: 12.9v

Key on, but not started: 12.7v

Truck started: 15v

 

I have not seen any drops down below 11'ish. I am going to buy a new battery, but plan to install one made for audio with plenty of reserve capacity, but the cost is almost stupid. 

Unhook the battery and take every ground wire off the frame. You will find several of them. By body mounts in front of doors. Use gasoline or some solvent and wipe the “wax” gm sprayed on the frame from the ground and frame. Re-attach. Also think there was one in the back by the bumper.

 

Check the firewall (body) to block ground by the brake master cylinder.

 

GM has a TSB where they replace the battery wires due to too much resistance, both positive and ground. You can probably google it. MY FIX....was to add Slick50 Synthetic engine oil treatment on every oil change.

 

Freezing weather the motor struggled to turn over, like a dead battery. Slick50....she spun over like it was 80 degrees out. Therein lies where the true electrical fault comes from.

 

Zero weight oil leaves no oil on parts when cranking during freezing....killing the electrical.

Ge0rge Enthusiast

Ge0rge

Posted
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Adding Slick50 is not needed IMO, my truck turns over fine in -20 temps. This issue caused it to go completely dead, additives would have done nothing but add cost to an already pricey oil change. 

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