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Steering Wheel Kicks Back Hard


Ge0rge

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Posted

Today I went to pull out and turned the wheel about 1/4 turn and it kicked back and almost broke my wrist. It kept doing it, stabilitrak said to be serviced, traction control turned off. Then I shut the truck off and it would not do anything, no sounds, no start. I jumped it and it worked. I shut off and had to jump it each time. Did this three times.after the third time it started easier with a jump and then would not reproduce the issue, though it did it between each jump start otherwise. I seen the other thread on this but I am thinking it's a battery that needs replaced. The battery voltage on gauge is about 15 to 16 by the looks of it and will go down to 11-ish sometimes I have noticed. Anyone else remedy this issue by replacing the battery?

Posted

What does the battery show with the truck off and the key turned forward to run?

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Ge0rge said:

Well my son and I noticed the negative terminal was a bit loose so we tightened. I went for a 5 minute ride and no issues. 

Prob it. Easy and cheap!

Posted

Still see the odd voltages on the meter, I am going to pick up a multimeter tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's help, I love this forum. My sub amp tends to wear the battery down. If the truck is parked and I have the stereo on but truck off I get tops of 15 min before battery saver kicks in and shuts it all down. I want to find a rather large battery.

Posted

Best thing to change is the habit of using the stereo with the engine shut off.

Posted
Lower that it probably should. 
20190427_183712_compress_44.thumb.jpg.70b306ddb0165b52b3d1e0a894f723ec.jpg
As long as it's in the range of the 12-16v or whatever it is, it should start. Glad tightening the negative worked for you. My question, just for future reference, stemmed from when I had a bad cell in my battery on my 15. Truck would run fine after a jump, but every time I shut it off it wouldn't start up again, it would only start with someone jumping me. Noticed the volt meter was barely above 9 with the truck off and the key on. Not enough to start it. Took it to the dealer and ended up being a bad cell

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Posted

When I first noticed it I shut it off and on a few times and repeated the issue. Then I shut it off and nothing worked, zero power. Then I jumped it with a battery pack charger, and then it worked until I shut it off, though repeating the problem. After the third or so jump start it worked as normal with no issue. I then found the loose neg clamp and tightened it. I am not certain it was the issue but it did not do it on my test drive. We'll see tomorrow how it goes. I will tighten that wire under the dash by the speaker if needed next.

 

1500 miles out of the 36000 mile warranty, go figure.

Posted

I am guessing the charge in the battery or current it could supply while loose, caused the drop in voltage and the steering wheel kickback. Is that why?

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