Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, econometrics said:

I just got my build sheet from the "[email protected]" folks. Very friendly! 

 

I have VTI on my 5.3L DFM RST. Didn't realize that! 

I sent an email to the address you shared and got my build sheet in couple of hours. Thank you very much for sharing.

Surprisingly, my truck has VTI code too, but the QR code doesn't list it. ?

Now I'm purely confused with the temp. The only thing I can see is different thermostats for the same engines, or some defects in my engine, since it runs in low temperatures at all times ?

Screenshot_20190508-200613_Yahoo Mail.jpg

Edited by AMPRG
  • Like 1
Posted

Shutters were not part of the deal when I bought my 2015 and I wish they would have been. Open they do not inhibit air flow. Closed they speed up heat up. Pretty nice feature if you consider the oil is heated in the radiator during cold starts. IMHO anyway. I have need to tape my grill in the middle of Midwest winters to do the same job the shutters would do automatically. No one make a canvas grill cover for gas motored 1500 that I have found. Doing so has been good for about 3 mpg in the winter months and hurts nothing that I can tell.

 

 :seeya:

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 5/4/2019 at 1:16 PM, AMPRG said:

My LTZ 5.3 DFM is so low. may be around 180 and lower most of the time. In the past 6800 miles I barely saw 200. I'm not towing any load. 

Mine has been the exact same way. I just picked up my Silverado last week an noticed it runs cooler than my 2014 and takes longer to warm up. I also noticed the oil pressure tends to run higher until the engine warms up a bit as well, around 500-600kpa which is around 72-90 psi. Not sure if that's just coincidence though. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/4/2019 at 11:28 AM, Limelight said:

I would bet money the analog gauges are not a "true" gauge,  whereas the digital gauges show the actual temperature. 

 

I've seen analog's in the past that basically have a "low", "at operating temp" and "high" movement of the needle with nothing really in between.  When the needle is actually put on the cluster if it's not perfectly lined up it could be left or right of the 210 a smidge.  Mine reads a hair over all the time once it's warmed up.

 

Just a thought- pure speculation based on past experience.  :)

This has been my experience.  My Jeep Wrangler analog gauge needle never moves, but my digital temperature readout fluctuates between 202° and 226°, when the electric fan kicks in.  I wish my Silverado could display temp and oil pressure in digital format.  At least I can check the transmission temp.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

My GMC Sierra was heating up driving up on hills. The issues was that the radiator cap was wore out. It will pollute the coolant. Flush the coolant and buy a new cap as your first option. Also I had to do an oil change since this engine heating will burn your oil.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 5/4/2019 at 3:52 PM, econometrics said:

#WorthIt ???

My 2020 silverado came with a one row radiator 5.3 litter ........ I find it kind of odd ...... it runs at 210 all the time even with a 180 T stat. I put on. 

Some ******'d up design.  My 2017 Cam was always at 160 +\-  I ran the VIN and seen the assembly plant is in Indiana and I live in S. Texas. could the truck been assembled for cold weather. because S. Texas heat and 210 degree seems rather hot and the rad hoses swell up. PROBOBAL SOLUTION; LOOKING FOR A 3 ROW RADIATOR AND GONNA FIND SOMEONE TO  REPROGRAM THE PCM ==FANS 

Posted
On 5/3/2019 at 12:36 PM, TeamSaris said:

Anyone else running just a touch over 210? My 2015 5.3 never did. Running a 2019 5.3 DFM. Seems to hover around 210-215 and that's without a heavy load or anything. Not too worried about it, just curious to see if everyone else has the same.

I bought a pre owned 2020 LT   5.3 ( 62,000 miles ) I noticed the T gauge is steady at 210 I looked under the hood and seen a one row radiator. I swapped the T stat to a 180 but goes to 210 anyway Maybe the radiator is the one causing this issue. S. Texas is always hot... I wish the engine temp was cooler. hoses are swollen and ballooned , gotta resolve this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...