Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
26 minutes ago, BlancoSilverado said:

I believe that you reuse the bolts/nuts when you remove the covers. 

Can confirm this is not the case for Sierras at least. Got under there and the covers just snap in. No nuts or bolts where the instructions say to add them. 

Posted

I had my flashed at the dealer, someone said in this post you can do it your self I would like to know how.  

Posted
2 hours ago, Eds240z06 said:

Hey. This may be a stupid question. But did you have to do step 10?   

 

Im looking on the brown connector and I see a brown and white wire but I swear I don’t think it’s in cavity 10.    I can tell there is a wire in cavity 10 but I don’t think it’s the brown/ white wire 

 

 

Step 10.  ocate the BCM under the lower instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Locate BCM connector (X5 Brown) cavity 10, circuit 1317 (BN/WH). It is giveaway on certain trim levels. If circuit is present in cavity 10, disregard steps 11 through 14, and 23 along with the single wire jumper that will not be ne

Posted
1 minute ago, dctackett10 said:

Hey. This may be a stupid question. But did you have to do step 10?   

 

Im looking on the brown connector and I see a brown and white wire but I swear I don’t think it’s in cavity 10.    I can tell there is a wire in cavity 10 but I don’t think it’s the brown/ white wire 

 

 

Step 10.  ocate the BCM under the lower instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Locate BCM connector (X5 Brown) cavity 10, circuit 1317 (BN/WH). It is giveaway on certain trim levels. If circuit is present in cavity 10, disregard steps 11 through 14, and 23 along with the single wire jumper that will not be ne

Or anybody that has installed the fog lights. Can help me out lol 

Posted
1 hour ago, dctackett10 said:

Or anybody that has installed the fog lights. Can help me out lol 

I'll caveat by saying I have not completed the dealer flash to ensure my installation was correct. However, my assessment was that there was a wire in every slot in that row and for that reason I didn't need to run the wire from the BCM across the front then through the dash to the engine compartment. That's probably the most difficult part of the whole installation. I'm not going to subject myself to added work if a wire is there. As you probably saw, the wiring in the BCM is so tight that it's tough to distinguish the slots and wire colors. Getting a single wire in there seems like a real chore. 

 

My challenge with the installation was the fact that the hardware to mount the lights to the bumper were not in the kit. For Sierra at least, the covers were just snap-in so there wasn't existing hardware there either. I had to procure my own. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, swing4terps said:

I'll caveat by saying I have not completed the dealer flash to ensure my installation was correct. However, my assessment was that there was a wire in every slot in that row and for that reason I didn't need to run the wire from the BCM across the front then through the dash to the engine compartment. That's probably the most difficult part of the whole installation. I'm not going to subject myself to added work if a wire is there. As you probably saw, the wiring in the BCM is so tight that it's tough to distinguish the slots and wire colors. Getting a single wire in there seems like a real chore. 

 

My challenge with the installation was the fact that the hardware to mount the lights to the bumper were not in the kit. For Sierra at least, the covers were just snap-in so there wasn't existing hardware there either. I had to procure my own. 

Dude. That sucks.   I called my dealer. They said 75 dollars for the flash. Which isn’t really bad.  Guess I’ll proceed with the next steps. Hopefully it’s right when I take it to them lol 

Posted
19 minutes ago, dctackett10 said:

Dude. That sucks.   I called my dealer. They said 75 dollars for the flash. Which isn’t really bad.  Guess I’ll proceed with the next steps. Hopefully it’s right when I take it to them lol 

You had me second guessing. I confirmed my wire in slot 10 was brown/white. You should be good to go. 

Posted (edited)

some say I have to do that step. Others say no.  

 

I don’t know lol.  Guess I’ll just take it to the dealer and let them charge me to death lol 

Edited by dctackett10
Posted
10 hours ago, dctackett10 said:

Hey. This may be a stupid question. But did you have to do step 10?   

 

Im looking on the brown connector and I see a brown and white wire but I swear I don’t think it’s in cavity 10.    I can tell there is a wire in cavity 10 but I don’t think it’s the brown/ white wire 

 

 

Step 10.  ocate the BCM under the lower instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Locate BCM connector (X5 Brown) cavity 10, circuit 1317 (BN/WH). It is giveaway on certain trim levels. If circuit is present in cavity 10, disregard steps 11 through 14, and 23 along with the single wire jumper that will not be ne

Mine had the wire in place at the bcm so I didn’t have to run the wire

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

For those that have done this DIY - couple questions re: Step 25. 

 

1) How did you remove the existing wire from the connector? I see the that there’s clips from looking at the jumper harness but don’t have anything skinny and small enough to reach them from the top. 

 

2) How did you route the wire from the jumper harness up through the bottom of the UEC so that everything can be put back together and closed properly?

Edited by swing4terps
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Can anyone advise on adding the Delphi connector to the UEC (step 25). I tried everything to remove the existing wire and replace with the one from the harness. Paper clips, staples, screwdrivers etc. Everyone seemed to have no trouble installing. Any advice? 

Posted (edited)
On 8/24/2019 at 5:11 PM, swing4terps said:

For those that have done this DIY - couple questions re: Step 25. 

 

1) How did you remove the existing wire from the connector? I see the that there’s clips from looking at the jumper harness but don’t have anything skinny and small enough to reach them from the top. 

 

2) How did you route the wire from the jumper harness up through the bottom of the UEC so that everything can be put back together and closed properly?

For item 1. I’m at a loss that no one else has described this step as it’s the most cumbersome. I gave up and I’m going to the dealer. For step 2. I cut back the plastic from the single lead to the UEC leaving about 8” or so of the wire exposed. I then mashed the top of the skinny plastic cover of the single wire into the larger plastic of the main bunch going into the UEC about 8” below the UEC module. I then taped around the plastic At the point I merged the 2 together. This left a single wire lead up to the UEC module. I managed to take a photo surprisingly as it was really tight to work. 
I welcome any input on the Delphi connection. 
Also, the dealer pricing for programming is all over the place. So far I’ve read of $75 and $135 for full install and programming. My dealer quoted me $150 just for programming and explained that GM charges them just for the call to get the download. They quoted me $250 for install which is how I ended up installing myself. It seems dealers are not clear on installing these. My dealer explained they had not done an install yet with the 2019s so I imagine they are just throwing out numbers without experience. 

692571A5-22F5-450A-B898-8D8F7039CFEB.jpeg

Edited by bobboberton1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks JR that would be great if you could do that !!! Do you have a link to where this was discussed before ? I cant seem to find it  Thank You Again !
    • Oil pump noise was discussed before.  I will try to remember to record a remote start later this morning. 
    • There are probably a few threads talking about fuel mileage but this one seemed to fit the stats I have seen based on my typical local driven route but with different outcomes based on different seasons/temperatures. I have a few hundred pounds of items that consistently ride on the truck at all times such as a bak flip cover, rubber bed mat, tools and extra fuel so I would be something over 8100 lb without me in the truck. All these examples are based on a 100 mile round trip to a town plus running around town so maybe 110 to 120 miles in total for a trip. Using regular fuel and I assume it always has some ethanol in it but don't know the percentage they blend in. Also speed wise I am going at 62 mph and non aggressive driving although less speed yet if its crappy winter condition roads. I am going by an initial reset of the computer generated fuel use numbers averaged over a couple of thousand miles or so for each weather/season so they may be more optimistic then actual hand calculated numbers. Basically this is painting a picture of doing the same drive but seasonal conditions and temperature being the major variable to the end result. Oh and although I am in Alberta Canada, I am converting it to miles per US gallon so there is no confusion.    So winter time it gets cold here, no real surprise there and the roads can be clear at times but also often have packed rough snow or are are driving through loose snow ( they do a poor job of plowing the highways ) and yes this includes the extra idle engine time due to trying not to freeze ones butt off. 12.7 mpg is what I was getting during the winter months on average.    Then during the spring when it was around the freezing point and the highways are clear of snow, I was getting around 14.25 mpg.   Summer time, I have been getting around 15.15 on average but certainly some of the trips showed quite a bit better fuel mileage, so much depended on how much or little I had driven around town and number of engine restarts after sitting for a while at each location. But stating a best fuel mileage trip to town pretending that is what the truck gets on average is fooling ones self for sure !.      As I said in a different post, I had driven a 645 mile trip over a couple of days stint to a different destination then these other daily to town examples above, and was done during the summer with nice weather and not bucking a head wind, also keeping at 62 mph and its a rolling landscape type highway drive ( this isn't southern Alberta or Saskatchewan flat lands ) Hand calculated fuel mileage in this case though and it came out to 17.65
    • On my wife's 2020 Blazer (~69000 miles), we started to notice the brakes pulsating at faster speeds. Typically around town you don't notice anything, but highway/interstate driving you will notice it. I decided to pull of the front tires and look at the brakes. I figured with the milage, the pads should be wearing out to their life span, but they actually looked decent. Still with "meat" on them. One pad has a ridge wearing in it, and that same rotor is showing the ridge too. That's not the concerning part...the other rotor appears to have a raised bump on it!  The picture make it look like a pimple! Very odd and strange! NOTE: These are the factory brakes and rotors.   I'm attaching pictures of the front brakes and what they look like ate ~69000 miles.
    • 2024 Chevrolet 2500 HD Custom 6.6 Gas Canadian built Truck  I tried to search for my previous thread on this topic but cant find it so my apoligies  for starting another one    #1   Since we have owned our truck purchased new it has this strange noise after using the remote start function  you press the remote start and you hear it start but right at the end of it starting it almost seems like it wants to start again after the truck is running .   There is no gap in time it is right at the end of the start . Almost sounds like when you have started a car/truck and its running and then you try and start it again and you get that grinding noise ,sort of     #2  You can only hear this if you are standing outside of the truck and near the truck  you cant hear it when you start the truck from inside  the cab . So it may very well be happening when starting the truck that way as in normally    #3   This only happens when it is started after sitting . For how long I don't know but it happens after sitting overnight for sure and it wont do it if you stop the engine after starting and then start it again  I have had it in to the Dealership before concerning this but they did not have the truck  when it was cold to hear it . Now its back in the Dealership left it overnight so they could possibly hear the problem . They said they tried and nothing happened . Well they did not know what they were listening for . I started the truck remotely and BINGO it makes the noise . Oh that sounds weird they say . We need to look into it ! I have left for this week at the Dealership    Does your 2024 2500 HD gas do this ?  Any of you fellas care to take the time and trouble to film this operation from a cold start  so I can hear what your sound like  Really  would like to know if this is anormal sound  Thank You Fellas !!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...