Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to install the rearview camera into my 2015 1500, but I can't afford the programmer at the moment. Was hoping one of you guys has it laying around and wouldn't mind letting go of it. I'm barely able to afford the 300 bucks for the camera/tailgate handle itself, but that's obviously useless without the programmer that infotainment charges 200 bucks for. 

 

Any Help?

Posted

i have an obdgenie that i used on my 2014, dont know if it can be used on another truck. i dont know what they would charge to reprogram it. do some research and let me know, i will give it to you

  • Thanks 1
Posted

There are many aftermarket systems that are much less expensive and do a great job.  I know it is preferable to go OEM and use the existing monitor but if money is tight they are worth considering. .  I wanted a rear vision camera for my travel trailer and struggled with the same issue.  I ended up with a seven inch monitor on my dash with three wireless cameras for the kind of money you are suggesting.  It will serve as a dash cam, front parking assist, and trailer rear-view. I currently just use it like a dash mounted rear-view mirror when pulling my travel trailer.  It works well and my investment will not have to stay with the truck when I sell.  The monitor on the dash is bothersome for the first 5 minutes but now an integral part of the controls!

Posted

We can add that for you for $50. Only caveat is you'd need to ship your module to us. 

Posted
12 hours ago, silveradosid said:

i have an obdgenie that i used on my 2014, dont know if it can be used on another truck. i dont know what they would charge to reprogram it. do some research and let me know, i will give it to you

I'd love to try. Do u not have to leave it in? Do you just plug it in and reprogram your truck then unplug it? I read on infotainment website that the same programmer is used for 2014 & 2015 Silverado's so it should work for mine.

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 6/7/2019 at 6:50 AM, silveradosid said:

just plug it in and wait until it stops flashing and then remove it

Do you still have it? I would like to buy it and try it on my Silverado

Posted
On 6/6/2019 at 10:45 AM, GTPprix said:

We can add that for you for $50. Only caveat is you'd need to ship your module to us. 

Do you still offer this service?

 

Posted
4 hours ago, CabroLopez said:

Do you still offer this service?

 

Reach out to him at his website I posted in the link above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...