Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2018 5.3...rained like crazy last night...32,000 miles, original owner, battery and connections appear to be good.

 

Just one click. Crawled under there and hit it with a hammer, didn't help. I can hear the solenoid coming out but it won't turn.

 

I read that the starters on the 2014's had issues with moisture, but I thought they had "fixed" that. Anyone know anything about starter issues on the 18's?

 

Called the dealer - it being a holiday week they said they're pretty backed up. Might be able to get to it this week, might not. I figured...I can't be bothered with this crap, I'll just throw a starter in myself. Called the parts store, they can't even get a starter for the flex fuel 5.3 (which tells me maybe they do fail a lot??). And the price would be $240. So I guess it's going to the damn dealer.

Posted

Replace the PCM B fuse. 20 amp. If it pops, stop.

 

Dealer will replace fuel pump. Plug melted to fuel pump because of a short. Rain.

 

If PCM B fuse is fine, put jumper cables on it and try starting. 

Posted
7 hours ago, HeySkippyDog said:

Have you tested the battery?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk
 

Yeah battery was fine.

Posted
6 hours ago, Paintor said:

Replace the PCM B fuse. 20 amp. If it pops, stop.

 

Dealer will replace fuel pump. Plug melted to fuel pump because of a short. Rain.

 

If PCM B fuse is fine, put jumper cables on it and try starting. 

Ok thanks, I'll give that a quick try before I get it towed.

Posted

Well it wasn't the PCM fuse. Tow truck came, girl gets out and says...I see these things all the time, these things need a lot of juice to start. She puts her jumper box on it and it fires up. WTH? I tried jumping it with TWO different jump packs...then I went the old fashioned route and used jumper cables. One click. 

 

The battery is one year old. I literally drove it the less than two hours before we had what was the most violent microburst rain and lightning storm I've ever seen. Next day it won't start. Didn't seem to be any amperage draw on the battery...didn't leave a light on, nothing was plugged in. Water shorted out something. Something is wet. The girl said the starter solenoids are crap on these trucks...haha, I laugh because I did read that on this forum. 

 

So now the dealer will start it, it'll be fine and they'll tell me to pick up. Great. Then I'll get stuck again. 

Posted (edited)

Dealer replaced the starter. Works great now. Battery tested fine, cables good, no voltage drop on the connections...the starter just gave out.

 

Honestly kind of surprised the starter went after only a year and 32,000 miles. Great truck so far though...at least I finally got to use that bumper to bumper warranty.

Edited by Doublebase
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I had the same issue, but intermittent and the dealer kept pointing at the battery, meanwhile I was telling them the battery was fine, check the starter. They would not budge on thier diagnosis, even though I told them "When it does start, it cranks and starts strong", so I caved and paid for a battery, it was 3 years old anyhow. 2 hours later, no start, so I called them and they were sending a tow, I went outside and she fired up and drove her in. I told them once again "It's the Starter, check the damn Starter !"....his answer "Did you ever think it might be the Alternator ?".....he must of noticed my puzzled look "How the freak does a bad Alternator cause an intermittent no start ?".....to shorten an already long story......yep, new Starter

Posted
21 hours ago, Beer Belly said:

I had the same issue, but intermittent and the dealer kept pointing at the battery, meanwhile I was telling them the battery was fine, check the starter. They would not budge on thier diagnosis, even though I told them "When it does start, it cranks and starts strong", so I caved and paid for a battery, it was 3 years old anyhow. 2 hours later, no start, so I called them and they were sending a tow, I went outside and she fired up and drove her in. I told them once again "It's the Starter, check the damn Starter !"....his answer "Did you ever think it might be the Alternator ?".....he must of noticed my puzzled look "How the freak does a bad Alternator cause an intermittent no start ?".....to shorten an already long story......yep, new Starter

Alternator? Lol, I probably would have lost my mind at that point.

 

I consider myself very lucky that the truck only had to go to the dealer once for this issue because the tow truck girl was able to get it start, and it started at the dealer. But luckily the tech said he was able to get the starter to act weird once, so they threw a starter into it.

 

Tell you what, I don't know if they're using different starters now...if they've made changes to who's manufacturing them now...but the starter they put in it sounds different/feels different, than my other starter ever did. It's faster, you can hear it engage and spin faster. I know that sounds crazy but it's different.

 

I asked the dealer if they replace many starters on the 2014-2018's he said, yeah some but not an unusual amount. Meanwhile the tow truck driver said they see these trucks all of the time. Well my next starter failure will be on me, as my warranty will be out soon, but it looks like a real easy starter to replace.

Posted

When my 2014 Silverado does a click and then no start I loose everything. I checked all the fuses and they only had 9.2 volts, then I checked the battery and it had 12.35 volts. I have owned a lot of gm truck’s and suv’s, but this one been a pos. Problem is I love the truck when it’s running good and not acting up. If anyone got any ideas? I’m all ears!!!

Posted
On 7/11/2019 at 2:33 PM, Mn2014Silverado said:

When my 2014 Silverado does a click and then no start I loose everything. I checked all the fuses and they only had 9.2 volts, then I checked the battery and it had 12.35 volts. I have owned a lot of gm truck’s and suv’s, but this one been a pos. Problem is I love the truck when it’s running good and not acting up. If anyone got any ideas? I’m all ears!!!

I'd start with the easy stuff and have a Load Test done on the battery, then check the battery connections.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Beer Belly said:

I'd start with the easy stuff and have a Load Test done on the battery, then check the battery connections.

I have done all the battery tested good. I checked every positive and negative  connection  I can find. It did it again last night. You can hook a jumper to it and everything and it will not do anything. After letting it sit and waiting something resets and it starts. I scanned it after I got it started and I had 4 can bus codes in bcm, radio, dash and I don’t remember the other  module. Out of all the gm  vehicle I have owned over the last 20 years this one has been a pos.

 

Edited by Mn2014Silverado
  • 6 months later...
Posted

I have just had the same problem on my 2018 silverado with 40k on it. It happened the first time 3 weeks ago. drove it, stopped and it wouldn't start. I jumped it with a jump box and then cables just to make sure.. The dash, lights and radio all come on as normal until i go to the start position, then everything goes off/black and 1 click. As i let off of start position the dash all comes on again. After watching some youtube videos and 2 hours later, i went out to the truck, reached under the passenger front fender and gave a wire a shake (thinking it went to starter) got in and it started.. Probably a total coincidence but never the less it was running.  Then 3 weeks passes and it does it again. I waited 2 hours, gave the wire a shake again, and nothing. Got it towed in and luckily it still did not start when it arrived at the dealership and they diagnosed the starter. Here is the kicker, there are no starters in North America and it may take up to 3 weeks for them to get one!! I think they have a huge problem that they aren't telling us!! I work in the auto industry and i know as a parts supplier the pipeline is always full unless there is a big big issue...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,507 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...