Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 8:12 AM, Rsktm300xcw said:

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

I am have a similar rattle and pulling the tray helps my High Country’s “popping” as well. Any other suggestions as to where it could be coming from as I have a hard time understanding how pulling on the dash/tray could help with the ducting bar. 

Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 6:12 AM, Rsktm300xcw said:

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

My AT4 does the exact same thing. If i pull the top center storage pocket towards me it goes away. If you move it back and forth you can hear it squeak. Very annoying. Took it to dealer with no solution. Dealers do not seam interested in working on this type of problem. Would love to know how to pull the instrument panel and get to the ducting to see if this would fix this.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I recently partially took my dash apart. I ended up taking the top tray out and the front windshield defrost grill out. The defroster grill pops out with a plastic trim tool. The center dash tray does as well once the single screw is removed. While reinstalling the screw in the dash tray I pulled back on it and tightened the screw. I then popped the defroster grill back in, the rattle seems to have stopped. At least for the time being. Now the center console squeaks of course.

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 7:12 AM, Rsktm300xcw said:

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

i am experience this exact same thing. Did you have any luck.

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 10/10/2021 at 8:14 AM, Michael Brusco said:

Just found my rattling noise on my 2020 Chevy 2500 6.6 gas. The antifreeze reservoir, was loose. 

You're the man! I was just about to start digging into the dash until I saw this post. This ended up being my issue as well. 

  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hey, little late into the game.  Just bought a 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. I have the same rattle: so far I have removed the cluster and added rattle prevention to the AC duct. I have firmly secured the hood release pull cord all the way from the inside to the hood latch. This rattle is driving me insane and the dealership (despite have a new vehicle warranty) charges me $150 anytime I bring it to the shop with this issue. They claim its a harness loose but do not know “which” one or “where”. Any solutions would be MUCH appreciated

Edit: The coolant reservoir mentioned above was missing a bolt. After bolting it down with felt washers on both sides, still no rattle solution.

Edited by EmporerM
Posted
On 1/29/2024 at 7:53 PM, EmporerM said:

Hey, little late into the game.  Just bought a 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. I have the same rattle: so far I have removed the cluster and added rattle prevention to the AC duct. I have firmly secured the hood release pull cord all the way from the inside to the hood latch. This rattle is driving me insane and the dealership (despite have a new vehicle warranty) charges me $150 anytime I bring it to the shop with this issue. They claim its a harness loose but do not know “which” one or “where”. Any solutions would be MUCH appreciated

Edit: The coolant reservoir mentioned above was missing a bolt. After bolting it down with felt washers on both sides, still no rattle solution.


FOR THE LOVE OF GMC, the rattle has been found and fixed. One of the screws holding the fender well up was missing. The metal clip that sits in the metal bracket got wind on it at higher speeds. Put a piece of tape over the clip and a new screw in it. Wallahhh.. no more rattle. One key point that made me look there was: the rattle went away even at high speeds when it was raining. The weight of the water on the clip and fender well prevented the metal on metal rattle at higher speeds. I’ve got a video of what it sounded like for anyone hunting a sound

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...