Jump to content

Custom Headlight Help


MyWay

Recommended Posts

Posted

Having an issue with these H11 lights on Custom model. Great looking but cant see anything at night. The LED models were just outside my price range. 

 

Anyone have the factory foglamps installed on this model OR perform a mod to assist? Any advice would be great. Thanks!

Posted

What ever you do don't add LED or HID's to those headlights, you will blind everyone on the road. If you are going to change it do it right and and replace the housings. Never understood this whole can't see anything at night, even the basic halogen headlights are great these days even with projectors. People complain must have never driven a sealed beam headlight, how did we ever get by? They aren't as bright as some of these new LED projection headlights but they also don't have that annoying cutoff area too when driving in hilly areas. I would upgrade the bulb to a Silverstar Ultra, Nighthawk or Crystal vision and that should help out a bunch without risking oncoming traffic. 

 

Tyler

Posted

You can add hid or led but get a bulb with a cover so the top is shielded. All the light you need and no issues with blinding people. Or up the wattage of the bulbs themself. However I always recommend and pnp relay harness. They are cheap these days and protect the wires. I had "off road" 55watt dual element in a car and they where super bright.
Hid are bright but unfocused. Projectors are good but seem to need more light output to equal same light.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

I do agree with Silverstar and so on, but another issue is we have DRL and ive read because of this Silverstars and types like that do not last very long.

Posted
44 minutes ago, amxguy1970 said:

What ever you do don't add LED or HID's to those headlights, you will blind everyone on the road. If you are going to change it do it right and and replace the housings. Never understood this whole can't see anything at night, even the basic halogen headlights are great these days even with projectors. People complain must have never driven a sealed beam headlight, how did we ever get by? They aren't as bright as some of these new LED projection headlights but they also don't have that annoying cutoff area too when driving in hilly areas. I would upgrade the bulb to a Silverstar Ultra, Nighthawk or Crystal vision and that should help out a bunch without risking oncoming traffic. 

 

Tyler

the custom has halogens in a reflective housing. Yes it will suffice, but for $35-40k, it should be more than sufficient.

 

And the note about blinding oncoming drivers is false. There is documented cases in the other threads of the LEDs performing well without blinding oncoming traffic. The cutoff is still there. aiming the headlights is key.

 

LED headlight mod will cost you $60-80 for both high and low beams in your custom. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/221126-custom-trail-boss-headlights/

Posted
the custom has halogens in a reflective housing. Yes it will suffice, but for $35-40k, it should be more than sufficient.
 
And the note about blinding oncoming drivers is false. There is documented cases in the other threads of the LEDs performing well without blinding oncoming traffic. The cutoff is still there. aiming the headlights is key.
 
LED headlight mod will cost you $60-80 for both high and low beams in your custom. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/221126-custom-trail-boss-headlights/
Again the issue is the hid pull huge amps to start but then once warmed up and running very low amps. So we have seen the fuse not work and wire melt or pop over time. Then there is the issue of the flicker. This is the ac voltage. And the best way to stop that is to isolate the system so back to the relay.
Led is good but it is like buying a lotto ticket. May work then again one day you may fight with issues. They are a use and be ready to replace item. I have 4 on the bench now. And I must have them or I can't see at all on my motorcycles.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Researched this topic and noticed many have used Sealight H11's. Apparently plug and play. Anyone responding use these? Any issues?

 

I like that they replicate an h11exactly but I dont need fuses popping and flicking issues

Posted
On 9/26/2019 at 1:46 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Again the issue is the hid pull huge amps to start but then once warmed up and running very low amps. So we have seen the fuse not work and wire melt or pop over time. Then there is the issue of the flicker. This is the ac voltage. And the best way to stop that is to isolate the system so back to the relay.
Led is good but it is like buying a lotto ticket. May work then again one day you may fight with issues. They are a use and be ready to replace item. I have 4 on the bench now. And I must have them or I can't see at all on my motorcycles.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

I didn’t mention HID, I wouldn’t suggest them due to the high frequency issues, heat soak, and spotty output patterns. 

 

I don't understand the issues with LED that you’re stating? LED seems to be the most reliable option. Halogen or HID are both time bombs as well. I try to have 1 spare bulb per set regardless of what type.

 

Sealight seems to be a non-issue brand for our customs.

plug and play, no flicker, no DRL issue, no overdrawn amperage   

Posted
I didn’t mention HID, I wouldn’t suggest them due to the high frequency issues, heat soak, and spotty output patterns. 
 
I don't understand the issues with LED that you’re stating? LED seems to be the most reliable option. Halogen or HID are both time bombs as well. I try to have 1 spare bulb per set regardless of what type.
 
Sealight seems to be a non-issue brand for our customs.
plug and play, no flicker, no DRL issue, no overdrawn amperage   
You are spot on. About hid. The led. Only issues are heat and draw. The new trucks can see the high,low, or irregular draw and give a code.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 9/29/2019 at 2:29 AM, 1SLOW1500 said:

You are spot on. About hid. The led. Only issues are heat and draw. The new trucks can see the high,low, or irregular draw and give a code.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Wasn't aware of odd power draw from LEDs. Assumed it was a brand/cheap that caused this.

 

I have no issues with my sealights, the fans are fairly poweful, you can definitely feel the air being drawn over them. I got the x3 series, they are 10000lm and have CSP chips with the external fan, not fins.

 

I havent had any codes, the only thing that is odd, is having to get used to the fan noise.

Posted

Get Sealight LED bulbs. Will be a completely different experience at night.  You won't get any codes from it. 

 

Less blinding than the newer LT's that complain about getting flashed all the time by others. HA.

Posted

Yea I think im sold on the Sealights. 

 

I did have a LTZ last night coming towards me, it definitely was bright. I can see why some of these owners of the higher models get flashed. Beautiful trucks though....

Posted
2 hours ago, MyWay said:

Yea I think im sold on the Sealights. 

 

I did have a LTZ last night coming towards me, it definitely was bright. I can see why some of these owners of the higher models get flashed. Beautiful trucks though....

I'd suggest the higher or newer model sealights. I originally had the X1 series but the X3 with the fans seems to be brighter, and they have the fan vs fin cooling.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,193 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...