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Alignment specs after level 2016 Silverado

mikeyk101

By mikeyk101
in Modifications & Accessories

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flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

so is 2.3 more positive  compared to 2.0 degrees, which is more negative?  forward caster is a larger number (positive) i assume, neg caster is smaller number( backwards) right? 

Edited by flyingfool
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

too funny,  i asked a question  hoping for a verbal answer not pictures, lol

:crackup:

 

Seriously?

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

so is 2.3 more positive  compared to 2.0 degrees, which is more negative?  forward caster is a larger number (positive) i assume, neg caster is smaller number( backwards) right? 

The larger the number the more laid back the inclination is. That is the upper ball joint is further behind the lower ball joint. Both values are positive but the +2.0 is less so. With +2.3 drivers side and + 2.0 passenger side the truck would be inclined to drift to the right IF it were not for the roads crown which is trying to get the truck to 'climb' the higher center of the road. Done in the proper proportion and the truck goes straight as an arrow. Guess I didn't understand the question. Sorry. ?

 

Is that better or do I still not understand? 

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flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is it me or does 2.0-2.3 degrees Caster make the truck feel a little squirrely? I am use to a heavier steering wheel, these trucks feel over boosted on the steering rack. would going to 3.0 add more weight to the steering?? 

 

i ordered one of these to tinker on the geometry while getting some data without going to an alignment shop, gives caster and camber..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07715X191/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

also is there a special tool required for adjusting the camber/ camber plates on k2xx

Edited by flyingfool
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, flyingfool said:

Is it me or does 2.0-2.3 degrees Caster make the truck feel a little squirrely? I am use to a heavier steering wheel, these trucks feel over boosted on the steering rack. would going to 3.0 add more weight to the steering?? 

 

i ordered one of these to tinker on the geometry while getting some data without going to an alignment shop, gives caster and camber..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07715X191/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

also is there a special tool required for adjusting the camber/ camber plates on k2xx

Looking at my printout and specs, 1.9⁰ is on the low end and 3.9⁰ for Caster is the high end. Center spec would be 2.9⁰. So 2.0⁰ and 2.3⁰ would both be on the low end with 2.0⁰ almost out of spec. I would expect to see just above 2.9⁰ on the left and just under 2.9⁰ on the right side. That's what I am going to be looking for from the dealership once I get a chance to get in there...

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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
  • Author
Posted

An update after a visit to the dealer today... After explaining the issue that I was having, they went to work. They did an alignment check and they came up with different numbers but that everything seemed to be ok. They are assuming the other alignment rack must have been off. They came up with 3.6⁰ on Caster for left front wheel and 3.3⁰ on right. The right wheel matched the first alignment. Then on Camber, they came up with -0.02⁰ on left and -0.04⁰ on the right. This time the left wheel matched the first alignment. On the Toe, their alignment measurement matched and both came out as 0.05⁰ on both wheels. According to them, all the measurements were good for a leveled truck and they said no adjustments were going to be needed. After that, they did a road force balance on all the tires. 3 of the wheels checked fine and were at 15lbs or below. The front left though checked at 28lbs which they said was too high. They rebalanced it with new weights and was able to get it down to 21lbs of road force. They recommended that I get a new tire but because it is a 4x4, that would mean 4 new tires. We discussed that since there was still quite a bit of tread left on the others, it would be kind of a waste to change out the rest of the tires just yet. These are the original tires and have just under 40k miles on them. I said I wanted to hold off until next year if it might be possible. The said that the bad tire should be put on the rear and that would hopefully minimize any vibration and if so, I could get away with holding off with new tires for now.

 

After leaving the dealership, I was able to get on some roads to check. There does seem to be a dramatic reduction of the vibration and I can live with the little bit it has. It is definitely much better and I don't think passengers will even notice now.

 

On another note, I had a discussion about warranty coverage now that I had my truck leveled. It was explained that it is handled by different dealers individually. I was assured that I would be ok on warranty issues as long as it isnt front suspension related which I kind of figured. Anything warranty issue related to the front suspension would be null and void and on my dime to get repaired. I pretty much expected that. But I was happy to find out that they have no problem with anything else and it would be covered. I was lucky that on my 2016, I was able to get GM to extend my bumper to bumper coverage to 4 years and 60k miles. I know it was kind of late to be thinking about that after recently  leveling but I know at least with this dealership, I am good to go for now...

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  • 3 weeks later...
flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

all my chevy shakes , seemed to go away went i swapped out the cheapo 20" rims and installed a set of take offs from a tahoe z71

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  • 1 year later...
Miguel Olea Enthusiast

Miguel Olea

Posted
Posted

So my alignment guy changed my caster on my 2018 4x4 Sierra.  I have the 5100 leveling shocks and he as my caster a 2.7 on the left and 3.3 on the right.  It seems to drive okay.  Can I move that cam bolt back a little myself with out affecting toe?  I can see the witness mark of where it used to be.

lucas287 Enthusiast

lucas287

Posted
Posted

@Grumpy Bear

 

I've often challenged your viewpoints of positive caster because my general experience with caster is mostly positive. At some point, though, it does have diminishing effects. My gut tells me frame angle is mostly overlooked when considering caster spec on a truck. Combine that with dropped rear ends and leveled front ends and we are creating unintended consequences to caster angle.  

What are your thoughts on this: 

 

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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, lucas287 said:

@Grumpy Bear

 

I've often challenged your viewpoints of positive caster because my general experience with caster is mostly positive. At some point, though, it does have diminishing effects. My gut tells me frame angle is mostly overlooked when considering caster spec on a truck. Combine that with dropped rear ends and leveled front ends and we are creating unintended consequences to caster angle.  

What are your thoughts on this: 

 

Hello Lucas:

 

That's funny :) 

 

You are correct. If I drop the tail of a 119" wheelbase truck 4" I change frame angle 1.925 degrees which changes castor a like amount positive. Alignments are done unladen. Correct? So when you dial in your castor at the top of the range then put 2K in the box dropping the tail 3-1/2" your now an out of spec 5 degrees positive. I expect GM knows that and doesn't find it a problem for occasional use. But when you drop the back to level, 3-1/2" to 4" a guy normally bags it for heavy loads. 2K load would put it on the bumpers. 

 

When you drop the rear you don't just change castor though. It will also change camber and toe. 

 

Most levels from the front don't change it as much as the height change is less by about half when done with struts or spacers. But it still needs correction. IMHO. 

 

Glad I scrolled the unread or I would have missed this post. I quit following a thing after awhile. 

 

Grumpy. 

 

PS You have an angle gauge on your phone. Check frame angles before and after. Doesn't have to even be on a level spot as long as it's on the same spot. Your looking for the difference not the absolute value. Make sense? 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
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