Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Anyone else get a grinding noise from underneath when you have a quick stop and go situation (1-2 seconds on the brake) and it triggers the Auto Stop/Start?  Grinding noise happens when the engine starts up from the auto stop.  No gas.  Just lifting foot off the brakes and grind noise. Happened maybe 2-3 times.  Never happens if I stop longer, past 1-2 seconds.  That’s my transmission getting a shave, right?  Under 5000km on it.  5.3 8 speed.  
 

Obviously, I will now be conscious and try to hold my brakes a bit longer if I see the Auto Stop kicked in. 

Edited by SilveradoRST
Posted
39 minutes ago, SilveradoRST said:

Anyone else get a grinding noise from underneath when you have a quick stop and go situation (1-2 seconds on the brake) and it triggers the Auto Stop/Start?  Grinding noise happens when the engine starts up from the auto stop.  No gas.  Just lifting foot off the brakes and grind noise. Happened maybe 2-3 times.  Never happens if I stop longer, past 1-2 seconds.  That’s my transmission getting a shave, right?  Under 5000km on it.  5.3 8 speed.  
 

Obviously, I will now be conscious and try to hold my brakes a bit longer if I see the Auto Stop kicked in. 

No, I have never had that happen yet.  

Posted (edited)

Don't wait too long to get that looked at...otherwise it might not start back up one day. 

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

As newdude said, get it looked at. I'm wondering from the description if the starter isn't trying to engage while the flexplate still has some rotation.

Posted

After thinking more about what the sound sounds like, it sounds similar to when you hold the key (old school, not push button) in the ignition a bit too long after the car/truck has already started.  
 

Thanks for the bulletin newdude.  And everyone who took their time to reply.  
 

I will try and get it checked soon.  

Posted (edited)

Depends upon the reading of the speedometer, i.e. if the speedometer reading is 0 mph for a two second stop or whether not fully stopped with the speedometer reading 1-2 mph. Under these circumstances I'll hear the noise, but not a grinding noise, of the starter motor disengaging from the flexplate. The s/s system is not like a conventional starter arrangement - the starter uses a split solenoid and the front part will engage the flexplate while the engine is still spinning at around 4 mph and below during a stop. If the brake pedal is released while it is engaging and the engine is still spinning above 0 rpm and partially stopped, you'll get a different noise than when the motor is restarted after it has reached 0 rpm when fully stopped. If looking for it I can hear that mechanical noise, but it is not like the grinding noise when trying to engage the starter motor on the older vehicles while the engine is still spinning (newer ECU controlled vehicles without s/s won't let you do something stupid like that anyway and will not engage the starter motor on a running engine. Operation of the starter motor split solenoid in a s/s system is described in many articles,e.g.

 

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8493

 

If a true grinding noise, likely a problem with the split solenoid in the starter.

Edited by Thomcat
addnl comment
Posted
1 hour ago, SilveradoRST said:

After thinking more about what the sound sounds like, it sounds similar to when you hold the key (old school, not push button) in the ignition a bit too long after the car/truck has already started.  
 

Thanks for the bulletin newdude.  And everyone who took their time to reply.  
 

I will try and get it checked soon.  

 

I did delete that as it was for the Turbo 4 cylinder.  So disregard that. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hello, new poster here, I found this thread and have a similar thing with my 2020 Sierra AT4. Under hard braking as I get to 15 mph to zero, I have a really painful grinding sound. It's a deep grinding sound, not like metal-on-metal train car sounds. What is very odd is that (I think) it doesn't happen with Auto Stop/Start disabled... which makes no sense to me (I thought it was the brakes making the sound), but so far in my testing it seems to be the case. It's difficult to reproduce the problem though.

Posted

my truck does it every so often. its loud too. talked with dealer and they said nothing except for its weird. but they have not heard it. its a stipend go situation and I don't have time to just leave it with them to try to get it to repeat. that auto stop function is stupid and should be the other way around. if you want to use it then you hit the button to turn it on, not have it engaged every time you start your vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can someone tell me where the video processing module is in a 2023 Silverado? I'm getting conflicting results that it's in the front passenger area or the rear passenger area behind the seat.
    • Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...