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Posted
On 7/20/2022 at 12:52 PM, Brent D said:

I dont want to steal kodiaks credit for coming up with the idea....but i just got a 3d printer and want to tinker and will try and post a .stl for these when i get a design that works well. Dont want to recreate the wheel but too cheap to pay for what i can maybe make.

**Please buy sets from Kodiak as I will not be making any to sell just for my own personal use. ** 

Kodiak...On a side note though maybe you could get a few $$ for .stl file alone privately for those who have printers but dont want to take the time to design.

 

I'll even give you a hand if you need it. What software do you like to use for 3d models?

the critical dimensions that worked for me, the ones for the part that gives a good tight fit on the inside of the square cross member are: width 68mm, height 71mm, corner radius 20mm. on my plugs actually the corners are the primary area of contact (where the fit is the most interference), this keeps them nice and tight but helps to make sure they are removable for periodic cleaning throughout the life of the truck. After all there are other passages for stuff to get inside the frame other than the open ends of the cross members. When capped it should reduce the introduction of debris and salt a huge amount. It's still good to be able to occasionally flush them out just in case.

Posted

I just started using tinkercad as it seemed to have the easist  entry into 3d world. I just got done making the round caps that worked for my application (2nd one still printing as we speak). I was getting a variable from the actual tinker cad to the end product of +/- .8mm which you wouldnt think is much but it is when it comes to sizing a hole that 1 isnt truly round, and 2 has some slight surface rust causing imperfections. I took me 3 itterations to come up with it a model that is tight and tough/flexible enough to  be pounded in with a mallet without cracking. Im using PLA+ though for now which is fine as it is not a moving part. Will upgrade to ABS down the road. I used digital calipers to know my large and small diameters and split the difference. My first one was just slightly too large and wouldnt even start to go in, the next one was too loose. This last one was tight but got it to go in . I used 1.73 diameter (didnt have calipers til today for mm) as a reference outter diameter for the plug and that seemed to work just perfect. I will start messing with the rectangles tomorrow.  I will post up the tinker cad files and .stl files for our users to mess with on here. I had fun just messing with it and the DIY. Just wish it didnt take 1.5 hours (twice) to find out it didnt work..lol

Posted

.obj file to adjust to whatever micro adjustments you need for your application. I ran mine at 100% infill .3mm height for speed using PLA+. Tool 1.5 hours each.

2019+GMC Caps Round.obj

Posted

Kodiak what 3d modeler are you using, cant seem to do radius with tinker cad as it wants to radius every side of object not just what I want. 

Posted
10 minutes ago, Brent D said:

Kodiak what 3d modeler are you using, cant seem to do radius with tinker cad as it wants to radius every side of object not just what I want. 

I use openscad for almost everything. I'm a programmer so the code based modelling is intuitive. Unfortunately I have no experience with tinkercad, heard of it, never used it.

I also do some work in freecad. The radius isn't the easiest thing in open scad either but with the right libraries its easy enough to produce. its pretty simple in Freecad though.

Posted

I have a lot of experience in Autocad, but all 2d...so its like starting over...will check out freecad.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Brent D said:

I have a lot of experience in Autocad, but all 2d...so its like starting over...will check out freecad.

I hear ya. You might find Freecad reasonable to learn then. its interface and UI and all are not quite like autocad but you make your 3d designs in one of a few different ways. you can insert primitives and do booleans on them, or you can draw 2D schematics then extrude them into 3D space. then you can pick a face on any surface in that mesh and create a new 2D sketch on that face and extrude or pocket to add geometry or make holes. And you can easily fillet or chamfer edges by selecting a 3D object, a face, or specific edges. 2D cad experience might translate fairly well.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/26/2022 at 2:57 PM, kodiakdenali said:

Updated design for additional strength to make sure its removable for maintenance.

 

1373577636_Revision2.thumb.jpg.bfe24483398378c886fca9adb5a22d40.jpg

Do you have the object file by chance i really would like to print this! Thank you

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

If anyone is making them for a 2023 or knows where to get a set Im a buyer. It looks like the rear hole is about 1.75" and the rear opening is more squared and measures roughly 2.5x3" Does this sound correct?  Again, if anyone knows where I can get a set, Im a buyer maybe two sets.  Thank you.

Posted

One other thing. Has anyone thought of making a groove around the plugs for an o-ring or are they already plenty tight?  Thanks

Posted
35 minutes ago, Bucketmouth said:

One other thing. Has anyone thought of making a groove around the plugs for an o-ring or are they already plenty tight?  Thanks

I still make and sell them, shoot me a message! They do have a space on the back where a gasket or o ring would fit if you could locate one of the right size. I make both the square or round plugs.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted
20 hours ago, BBL_28 said:

How do I contact Kodiakdenali directly to get a set of plugs?

 

Got your message! Contacting me though direct message right here is a good way to get a hold of me. I’m still making the plugs for anyone who asks for them. shipping costs a couple bucks more than it used to but I still honor the original price in this thread. Anyone looking for them, feel free to message me!

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