Jump to content

Frame plugs

DanTN

By DanTN
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted
On 7/20/2022 at 12:52 PM, Brent D said:

I dont want to steal kodiaks credit for coming up with the idea....but i just got a 3d printer and want to tinker and will try and post a .stl for these when i get a design that works well. Dont want to recreate the wheel but too cheap to pay for what i can maybe make.

**Please buy sets from Kodiak as I will not be making any to sell just for my own personal use. ** 

Kodiak...On a side note though maybe you could get a few $$ for .stl file alone privately for those who have printers but dont want to take the time to design.

 

I'll even give you a hand if you need it. What software do you like to use for 3d models?

the critical dimensions that worked for me, the ones for the part that gives a good tight fit on the inside of the square cross member are: width 68mm, height 71mm, corner radius 20mm. on my plugs actually the corners are the primary area of contact (where the fit is the most interference), this keeps them nice and tight but helps to make sure they are removable for periodic cleaning throughout the life of the truck. After all there are other passages for stuff to get inside the frame other than the open ends of the cross members. When capped it should reduce the introduction of debris and salt a huge amount. It's still good to be able to occasionally flush them out just in case.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

kodiakdenali
kodiakdenali

Here you go:     I didn't check the whole frame, is it just this one square member? 2 outlets total? I need to make some for the round ones also.

kodiakdenali
kodiakdenali

It's been a lot of fun designing and using the 3D Printer for projects on my truck. If any of you are interested in some of my other adventures I also enjoy producing videos of the projects on my DIY/

Transient
Transient

Subscribed Just found out about something I didn't know I needed Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted Images

Brent D Enthusiast

Brent D

Posted
Posted

I just started using tinkercad as it seemed to have the easist  entry into 3d world. I just got done making the round caps that worked for my application (2nd one still printing as we speak). I was getting a variable from the actual tinker cad to the end product of +/- .8mm which you wouldnt think is much but it is when it comes to sizing a hole that 1 isnt truly round, and 2 has some slight surface rust causing imperfections. I took me 3 itterations to come up with it a model that is tight and tough/flexible enough to  be pounded in with a mallet without cracking. Im using PLA+ though for now which is fine as it is not a moving part. Will upgrade to ABS down the road. I used digital calipers to know my large and small diameters and split the difference. My first one was just slightly too large and wouldnt even start to go in, the next one was too loose. This last one was tight but got it to go in . I used 1.73 diameter (didnt have calipers til today for mm) as a reference outter diameter for the plug and that seemed to work just perfect. I will start messing with the rectangles tomorrow.  I will post up the tinker cad files and .stl files for our users to mess with on here. I had fun just messing with it and the DIY. Just wish it didnt take 1.5 hours (twice) to find out it didnt work..lol

Brent D Enthusiast

Brent D

Posted
Posted

.obj file to adjust to whatever micro adjustments you need for your application. I ran mine at 100% infill .3mm height for speed using PLA+. Tool 1.5 hours each.

2019+GMC Caps Round.obj

Brent D Enthusiast

Brent D

Posted
Posted

Kodiak what 3d modeler are you using, cant seem to do radius with tinker cad as it wants to radius every side of object not just what I want. 

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Brent D said:

Kodiak what 3d modeler are you using, cant seem to do radius with tinker cad as it wants to radius every side of object not just what I want. 

I use openscad for almost everything. I'm a programmer so the code based modelling is intuitive. Unfortunately I have no experience with tinkercad, heard of it, never used it.

I also do some work in freecad. The radius isn't the easiest thing in open scad either but with the right libraries its easy enough to produce. its pretty simple in Freecad though.

Brent D Enthusiast

Brent D

Posted
Posted

I have a lot of experience in Autocad, but all 2d...so its like starting over...will check out freecad.

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Brent D said:

I have a lot of experience in Autocad, but all 2d...so its like starting over...will check out freecad.

I hear ya. You might find Freecad reasonable to learn then. its interface and UI and all are not quite like autocad but you make your 3d designs in one of a few different ways. you can insert primitives and do booleans on them, or you can draw 2D schematics then extrude them into 3D space. then you can pick a face on any surface in that mesh and create a new 2D sketch on that face and extrude or pocket to add geometry or make holes. And you can easily fillet or chamfer edges by selecting a 3D object, a face, or specific edges. 2D cad experience might translate fairly well.

  • 4 weeks later...
alvarezz09 Enthusiast

alvarezz09

Posted
Posted
On 5/26/2022 at 2:57 PM, kodiakdenali said:

Updated design for additional strength to make sure its removable for maintenance.

 

1373577636_Revision2.thumb.jpg.bfe24483398378c886fca9adb5a22d40.jpg

Do you have the object file by chance i really would like to print this! Thank you

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Bucketmouth Enthusiast

Bucketmouth

Posted
Posted

If anyone is making them for a 2023 or knows where to get a set Im a buyer. It looks like the rear hole is about 1.75" and the rear opening is more squared and measures roughly 2.5x3" Does this sound correct?  Again, if anyone knows where I can get a set, Im a buyer maybe two sets.  Thank you.

Bucketmouth Enthusiast

Bucketmouth

Posted
Posted

One other thing. Has anyone thought of making a groove around the plugs for an o-ring or are they already plenty tight?  Thanks

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, Bucketmouth said:

One other thing. Has anyone thought of making a groove around the plugs for an o-ring or are they already plenty tight?  Thanks

I still make and sell them, shoot me a message! They do have a space on the back where a gasket or o ring would fit if you could locate one of the right size. I make both the square or round plugs.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, BBL_28 said:

How do I contact Kodiakdenali directly to get a set of plugs?

 

Got your message! Contacting me though direct message right here is a good way to get a hold of me. I’m still making the plugs for anyone who asks for them. shipping costs a couple bucks more than it used to but I still honor the original price in this thread. Anyone looking for them, feel free to message me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Trading 7.3 (Godzilla) for G.M.C gas

      By KARNUT · Posted

      My nephews 7.3 got noisy right around 100K miles. While replacing the engine he drove his old 6.0 Chevy that had over 200K miles on it. It an old reliable backup. I haven’t been around the old shop lately. I’m curious to find out if there using the new GM heavy duty gas.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I don't know if you or anyone enjoys it or not but, why not share it. It's GM "truck" related and we're in the right place to discuss that 😉 I'm also working on some creative writing skills, I'm not quitting my day job to pursue that, either!   As I said, I've hit a wall because I'm not making any progress, and the progress is the fun part for me.   The idler pulley and EGR valve came in. Against better judgement, I went out there last night and put both of them in. I was able to get a nut on the back of the bolt on the side with the broken flange. There's enough flange still there that I can get that side of the EGR to snug down. It's not perfect, it's not "right", but this is the fix I have for now. If I decide to keep the rig, I talked to a guy locally who will sell me a complete intake for $100. If it's my truck, a broken flange like that would bug me too much. Yes, I'm crazy. But I embrace it.   Pulley on, EGR installed, started the truck. Great...still have a pulley squeaking like mad. That was the first disappointment. I thought I had pinpointed the problem. Before I replaced it, I sprayed the back of that pulley with PTFE and it would shut up for about 30 seconds. Is the squeak actually the belt? I'm frustrated.   SO then I decided why not disappoint myself twice, so I took it for a spin and sure enough, the CEL set for P0401 insufficient EGR flow again.   I had some extra time, so when I arrived home, I decided to ask AI about my EGR code. We had an interesting conversation.   I asked how to tell if my MAP sensor is bad and if that could be setting an EGR code since a bad MAP may not be sensing the requisite drop in manifold pressure when the EGR activates. I gave it the MAP value at idle and it told me to blip the throttle hard and watch the MAP reading. It said no, the values appear normal and it's reactive to pressure changes, and then instructed me to test voltage at the harness. I don't think it's the MAP sensor. Interesting, though, I gave it MAP reading values in inHg, and it thought I was using PSI, so I had to correct it. AI is a very dangerous tool if you aren't treating it like the machine that it is.   Then it walked me through testing the EGR and harness. It took me down an interesting path. It was referencing a gray wire and a white wire so I told it I can't tell the difference on my harness because it's dirty and old and both could be white or gray, I'm not sure. So it gave me a more accurate description of the ABCDE pins on the connector and started referencing pins instead of colors. Helpful.   The EGR harness has 12v power, and it also has 5v reference power from the PCM. What I'm unclear on is there's a ground wire and I thought AI had said that one of my tests revealed the ground in the harness was likely bad and it instructed me to wire a test ground. I got distracted and navigated away from the AI conversation, and when I went back and asked for clarification it said I must have misunderstood. (how rude- next time I'm saving the conversation!)   But I think it was onto something. I recall NOT getting 12v when I tested the power wire to the ground wire, but I did when I tested the power wire, grounding the voltmeter to the engine block. AI said no, the ground wire is actually for the PCM, that's how it commands the EGR on by grounding it and so the circuit should be open with the key on (i.e. EGR off). But I think there's also a static/overall ground that should always be grounded, and if that's bad, then the EGR isn't activating when the PCM commands it on, and thus setting the code.   There's a bunch of other tests it suggested, back-probing with the EGR plugged in and engine running. I need to get some time to focus, and not just tinkering after a long day.  
    • kylant
      Trading 7.3 (Godzilla) for G.M.C gas

      By kylant · Posted

      the 7.3 lifter issue is real, not few and far between.  my 6.6 gas does not use oil.  the 7.3 with 4.30 gears pulled hills better and felt better off the line. the 6.6 gets the job done though. mpg sucks
    • kylant
      Remote Start Noise 2024 2500 HD Gas

      By kylant · Posted

      are you talking about the loud whooshing, grinding type noise? mine does it too
    • Donstar
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Donstar · Posted

      I am a huge fan of the Slate.  (SUV for her, base pickup for me.)  Unfortunately, there are no plans to sell in Canada but maybe this will change.  I think if/when Ford offered a high range. EV Maverick, it would be my first choice.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...