Jump to content

Frame plugs

DanTN

By DanTN
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

kodiakdenali
kodiakdenali

Here you go:     I didn't check the whole frame, is it just this one square member? 2 outlets total? I need to make some for the round ones also.

kodiakdenali
kodiakdenali

It's been a lot of fun designing and using the 3D Printer for projects on my truck. If any of you are interested in some of my other adventures I also enjoy producing videos of the projects on my DIY/

Transient
Transient

Subscribed Just found out about something I didn't know I needed Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted Images

RST Z71 New Member

RST Z71

Posted
Posted

Anyone have any sellers that will ship to Canada? The eBay link list will not?

Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, RST Z71 said:

Anyone have any sellers that will ship to Canada? The eBay link list will not?

I bought mine off Amazon.ca 

ArsenalFC10 New Member

ArsenalFC10

Posted
Posted

YES,  I have the carbon pro.  still can't find the rectangle one for the front of the rear.

lgl34 New Member

lgl34

Posted
Posted

Can anyone post the measurements for the square hole? I’d do it myself but still waiting for my new Sierra to arrive at the dealership. 

  • 4 months later...
Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
Has anyone tried the Raptor/F150 frame plugs yet? They look like they may fit... For $12 I think I will give them a shot since I haven’t seen a better solution yet. Here is a link to eBay... Let me know what y’all think?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F150-Square-Frame-Hole-Plug-for-Left-Rear-Wheel-on-2015-and-later-Models-/371612442414?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
 
Please let us know what you think. I'm interested in doing this.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted

No, it won't. I ordered a 4" and 3" square tube plug and neither fit. It's not actually square, it's rectangle shaped. I got an ebay message from the company I bought the round and small rectangular plugs from asking if I could provide measurements of the larger rectangle plug and they would attempt to make the part. I had measured it prior to them messaging me, but now I have to re-measure and provide them pictures.

  • 2 months later...
Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted

Did anyone figure out where to get these plugs from? If so could you post a link or info here?

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted

Interesting...first thing I thought when seeing this post is aren't those frame passages not water tight? don't they have drain holes and other holes in them where plastic wire harness anchors are attached? if so water will find a way inside there even if plugged, and if plugged it will be extremely slow to evaporate and likely cause more corrosion...

but those who have used these in the past, that's not the case? it does actually resist corrosion?

I would think plugs for any of the frame holes would be fairly easy to design and 3D print...

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted

I don't know where you live, but in snow country big gaping holes along the wheels pack full of snow and salt and dirt which lead to rust. It's not about making it water tight, that's honestly not possible with the frame at all. The idea is to keep as much crud out of there as possible so it doesn't rust from the inside out. I really want one for the huge rectangular hole because that thing is full of crap because of it being at the leading edge of the rear wheel so lots of crap gets thrown in that direction off the top of the tires.

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, GETGONE said:

I don't know where you live, but in snow country big gaping holes along the wheels pack full of snow and salt and dirt which lead to rust. It's not about making it water tight, that's honestly not possible with the frame at all. The idea is to keep as much crud out of there as possible so it doesn't rust from the inside out. I really want one for the huge rectangular hole because that thing is full of crap because of it being at the leading edge of the rear wheel so lots of crap gets thrown in that direction off the top of the tires.

 

good to know. I'm going to look into this. I plan to have this truck for a long time.

 

I live in snow country, but around these parts most people run winter tires (or at least it seems) and the local gov is less salt happy. they treat the interstates and any dangerous areas like where there's a steep down hill right up to a stoplight/stop sign, but otherwise they don't pour salt on every inch constantly in the winter time. its actually really nice. neighborhood roads stay snow/ice covered for weeks after a big snow. they'll plow the bulk away and the rest just stays there. yet for some reason people buy cars/tires suited for our climate and no one has much trouble getting around even with much less rust-causing salt. pretty amazing if you ask me. not to say we're salt free, care must always be taken. but I've lived in areas where they salt the crap out of every road even when the weatherman predicts snow. crazy.

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted

Here you go:

 

65439738_ModelPreview.thumb.jpg.8f380db3c39a6e5e0936c7473da0dc3c.jpg20220525_164645_v2.thumb.jpg.39a0e02f553c7bad5e32e0aea8cc5bf6.jpg20220524_201629_v2.thumb.jpg.2b7447fdd84a6d989d48e7badbb1a3da.jpg20220525_165041_v2.thumb.jpg.dd695beb9cba953ef61cf9e6cf54b3a9.jpg20220525_165046_v2.thumb.jpg.d057a2f16da9e6b3e1a501c79f852625.jpg

 

I didn't check the whole frame, is it just this one square member? 2 outlets total? I need to make some for the round ones also.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 431 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

      from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...