Jump to content

LED front turn signals LASFIT 7443

bhowatt

By bhowatt
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

15BlueSilverado Enthusiast

15BlueSilverado

Posted
Posted

I went ahead and just ordered a set of these... I have some bright LED reverse bulbs and I like that I get to keep them with these instead of having a small LED board for reverse lights. I'll post pics after I get them installed. 

 

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply
mistermcgoo Enthusiast

mistermcgoo

Posted
Posted

They came in the mail today. They seem to be good quality, so we shall see this weekend..

 

So I should probably ask all of the electrical gurus out there.. what is the risk of fire hazard when using something aftermarket like this? Lol

 

 

8DD82E1D-A1F2-4546-8E6B-89A68EFAD8CA.jpeg

24EA53F9-AAED-4F9C-8814-4F2B097BE9DD.jpeg

bhowatt Enthusiast

bhowatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
 These are the front turn signals I bought..
https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-resistor-Extremely-Upgrade-Version/dp/B0774HQC8Q/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi
 
 I installed them last night and the initial quality seems to be good. Easy plug/play installation and no hyper flashing. MUCH brigher than stock. Can’t comment on longevity yet, but so far so good. Here’s a pic with the incandescent on the passenger side vs the led on the driver side..
 
 
E4ABDEF4-0C7D-4006-96DC-314841B0CBA7.thumb.jpeg.9ce127ff91fdead8e3740d3eaa4e62a3.jpeg

Just ordered a pair. Any hyper flash or errors yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mistermcgoo Enthusiast

mistermcgoo

Posted
Posted

My buddy and I just got done installing the Synetic led’s in the rear..

 

 The install was extremely easy, they truly are plug and play. The only thing that took a minute was finding a good place to mount the resistors, but after we figured out good spots on the first light we just followed suit with the others and it was a breeze!

 

 So far the quality seems good! The wires, led’s and resistors all seem to be of great quality. No hyperflashing and true dual function compatibility. They are definitely much brighter (in daylight), can’t wait to see them at night. Time will tell if they will last for years to come, but so far they seem to be a steal at less than $30 a pair!

 

I attached a comparison pic below. The truck on the left is my buddy’s after installing the led’s, mine is on the right with the stock incandescents. The second pic is mine after installation. Hope this thread has helped anyone on the edge/undecided about giving these a shot.

 

 

FE57100F-15F6-4D89-8FCC-88A662F5C04E.jpeg

16B46CB5-BF7E-4B16-B07E-E68AC16CBFB3.jpeg

Darmichar Enthusiast

Darmichar

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, mistermcgoo said:

My buddy and I just got done installing the Synetic led’s in the rear..

 

 The install was extremely easy, they truly are plug and play. The only thing that took a minute was finding a good place to mount the resistors, but after we figured out good spots on the first light we just followed suit with the others and it was a breeze!

 

 So far the quality seems good! The wires, led’s and resistors all seem to be of great quality. They are definitely much brighter (in daylight), can’t wait to see them at night. Time will tell if they will last for years to come, but so far they seem to be a steal at less than $30 a pair!

 

I attached a comparison pic below. The truck on the left is my buddy’s after installing the led’s, mine is on the right with the stock incandescents. The second pic is mine after installation. Hope this thread has helped anyone on the edge/undecided about giving these a shot.

Did you get a pic of how you mounted the resistors?  I'm close to pulling the trigger on these and the LED's for the front turns as well.

mistermcgoo Enthusiast

mistermcgoo

Posted
Posted
Just now, Darmichar said:

Did you get a pic of how you mounted the resistors?  I'm close to pulling the trigger on these and the LED's for the front turns as well.

Ahh I didn’t not. Sorry, I should have thought about that.

 

Let me see if I can google a pic of a tail light slot with the lamp removed so I can try and point out where I put them..

mistermcgoo Enthusiast

mistermcgoo

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I’ll try to articulate this the best I can, so bear with me..

 

Attached below are three pics: the first without arrows (so you can easily see the inner second panel), one with arrows designating where to I mounted the resistors. This is the way my buddy I best figured they should go, as to minimize contact with any other wires. They probably don’t put off enough heat to cause any damage, but we would rather be safe than sorry. The third pic shows the led/resistor for reference.

 

I recommend using heat resistant 3M VHB tape and just cut it to fit however you wish. I contacted Synetic and they said VHB would do just fine. Link below..

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4WXJBD?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

 

I put the resistor for the top led on the inner panel you can see through the uppermost slot, the resistor for the bottom led was mounted on the narrower inner panel you can see through the second slot. I mounted them both vertically (they are rectangular resistors) so that they would be enough length to reach the light itself and truck light harness, those positions seemed perfect. I orientated them so that I was able to feed the upper led out of the upper slot and the plug going to the truck harness through the middle slot. Do the same for the bottom, but just invert it 180 degrees so the led comes through the bottom slot and the plug through middle again same as you did for the top.

 

 If need be, use some extra tape to tuck away any excess wiring that may be a bit too close to the resistors. Just make sure you judge it right and give yourself enough slack to work with If you need to take the tail lamp off again for whatever reason.

 

*Also make sure to test all led’s for functionality before mounting*

 

I probably made it sound way more complicated that it actually is, once you get your tail lamp off and you see first hand what I’m referencing it should make sense to you. If not, let me know if you have any questions. Hope that helped!

 


 

 

FDA41EAA-F2AE-4BDC-BFBE-755FD8190C8F.jpeg

640BE584-2679-40D0-ADCB-639962973715.jpeg

94B44394-CF9E-488E-ACF1-18E1CBC29999.jpeg

bhowatt Enthusiast

bhowatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anyone know why the 2018 Silverado front turn signals use a 7443 bulb stock? They are supposed to be dual filament but from what I can tell there is only one function in that socket. On and off. There is no running light in that position so in theory a single filament 7440 build should work. Am I overthinking this? My 7440 LED Sirius bulbs cane in today but I haven’t installed them yet and I’m going down the rabbit hole here. Until I get time to install. Just want to understand why it calls for a 7443 and not a 7440 considering it’s function.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DominatorZ71 Enthusiast

DominatorZ71

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, bhowatt said:

Anyone know why the 2018 Silverado front turn signals use a 7443 bulb stock? They are supposed to be dual filament but from what I can tell there is only one function in that socket. On and off. There is no running light in that position so in theory a single filament 7440 build should work. Am I overthinking this? My 7440 LED Sirius bulbs cane in today but I haven’t installed them yet and I’m going down the rabbit hole here. Until I get time to install. Just want to understand why it calls for a 7443 and not a 7440 considering it’s function.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

a good question. I'm going to buy this set of 7440s and see how it goes

Screenshot_20191124-095407.png

bhowatt Enthusiast

bhowatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I also ordered these and installed.

https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-resistor-Extremely-Upgrade-Version/dp/B0774HQC8Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sirius+7440&qid=1574652966&sr=8-3

They are extremely bright and work as described. They are 7440 bulbs but are fully functional being that there is only one function for the front turn signals on the K2XX. (Still not sure why it calls for 7443). Hard to tell in the picture due to the angle, but the left side is the new LED bulb. They are so much brighter than stock and give the turn signals that modern look. Worth the buy so far.

a23d6d54d2c8a61a7f4dbc751ef54ff4.mov


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, bhowatt said:

I also ordered these and installed.

https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-resistor-Extremely-Upgrade-Version/dp/B0774HQC8Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sirius+7440&qid=1574652966&sr=8-3

They are extremely bright and work as described. They are 7440 bulbs but are fully functional being that there is only one function for the front turn signals on the K2XX. (Still not sure why it calls for 7443). Hard to tell in the picture due to the angle, but the left side is the new LED bulb. They are so much brighter than stock and give the turn signals that modern look. Worth the buy so far.

a23d6d54d2c8a61a7f4dbc751ef54ff4.mov


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good!

 

I like your changes to the bow tie and Z71 badge.

bhowatt Enthusiast

bhowatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Looks good!
 
I like your changes to the bow tie and Z71 badge.


Thanks! I decided to go for gloss black bow ties (cheaper and metal) and I had to get rid of the red z because I have blacked out z71 badges in the doors. OCD and consistency [emoji23]. All ties together pretty good. Just the way I want it [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, bhowatt said:

 


Thanks! I decided to go for gloss black bow ties (cheaper and metal) and I had to get rid of the red z because I have blacked out z71 badges in the doors. OCD and consistency emoji23.png. All ties together pretty good. Just the way I want it emoji106.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Your are very welcome. Right there with you, I like doing little "day two" mods even if others do not notice.IMG_1213.jpg.87521553a3e11fc0b84dc119d0ff433b.jpgRed and chrome tow hooks matche my Z71 badge, and personalized plates for the Centennial.

bhowatt Enthusiast

bhowatt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Right there with you, I like doing little "day two" mods even if others do not notice.IMG_1213.jpg.87521553a3e11fc0b84dc119d0ff433b.jpgRed and chrome tow hook matches my Z71 badge, and personalized plates for the Centennial.

Subtle! I like that! My favorite mods are ones that give your truck a “custom to you” look and feel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • KARNUT
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • Hoginedgewood
      MPG Surprise

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      That computer lies!
    • Tbhats2130
      2018 Silverado Console USB Port Not Working

      By Tbhats2130 · Posted

      My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...