Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

On my 2018 Tacoma I replaced all of the speakers and ran them off of just the factory head unit, world of difference in all aspects of sound.  It was not going win any awards for being super loud but for me in my daily driving it was great, had enough bass, the clarity was excellent and I rarely had to turn the volume a third of the way up.  I am wondering would I have similar results with my non Bose 19 SLE, if I swapped out the factory garbage for mid-grade JBLs like I did in the Tacoma?  Has anyone done this? Did it make a noticeable difference, I know that with no amp or sub it will still lack real bass but I am ok with that.

 

 

thanks

Posted

I know In the 14 to 18,s it didn’t work out to well the sound was horrible from the stock radio AMP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Probably wouldn't hurt. GM OEM speaker are pretty low-end quality if you don't have Bose to say the least. My 2007.5 Dmax actually had all 4 speakers die, the back two cut then the front two but we hadn't noticed. The head unit seemed to function fine but I wondered what the odds are that all 4 speakers would crap out? Sure enough after some time here I figured out it was common, changed all 4 for some cheap JL's and it sounded a lot better than my 2013 HD non Bose. I can't complain about my 2018 HD's base stereo, but then again my subwoofer days are long behind me. 

Posted

It's night and day difference. Replaced all door and front dash speakers with Alpine type S to the factory head unit and no amp and well worth the money. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, 808 HI said:

It's night and day difference. Replaced all door and front dash speakers with Alpine type S to the factory head unit and no amp and well worth the money. 

Thanks for the info, what speaker did you use in the dash?  I am thinking just a tweeter but then consider going with a 3 1/2 two way.

 

thanks again

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Zrouge1 said:

Thanks for the info, what speaker did you use in the dash?  I am thinking just a tweeter but then consider going with a 3 1/2 two way.

 

thanks again

 

On my last truck, I used a 3 1/2" jl c2 coax but was over powering the doors in terms of sound stage and had to bore out the mounting hole in order to fit. If ur going that route, u may have to cut more or less depending on how tall the speaker is down to the magnet. This time I used a 1" alpine type s tweeter and balanced everything out and the fact that I didnt want to CUT into a new truck. 

Edited by 808 HI
Posted (edited)

3.5’s won’t fit. I had to cut a lot out and they still didn’t fit perfect. Get some 2.5 full range for the dash and better 6x9’s in the door. The 6x9’s made the biggest difference for me. I have the oem Bose stereo, it’s ok for stock but once you upgrade it you see what you’re missing. I’ll be using Morel CCWR 254’s in the new truck but it’ll be a 3 way active setup. 
 

After I replaced the speakers the timing was way off so the sound comes from the right corner when you have the L/R balanced and needs to be faded to the right to balance it for the drivers seat. 
 

I would recommend starting with a 6x9 that isn’t coax and go from there.

Edited by dw91
Posted
19 hours ago, dw91 said:

3.5’s won’t fit. I had to cut a lot out and they still didn’t fit perfect. Get some 2.5 full range for the dash and better 6x9’s in the door. The 6x9’s made the biggest difference for me. I have the oem Bose stereo, it’s ok for stock but once you upgrade it you see what you’re missing. I’ll be using Morel CCWR 254’s in the new truck but it’ll be a 3 way active setup. 
 

After I replaced the speakers the timing was way off so the sound comes from the right corner when you have the L/R balanced and needs to be faded to the right to balance it for the drivers seat. 
 

I would recommend starting with a 6x9 that isn’t coax and go from there.

Do you have a 19/20 Bose system?  I thought it was difficult to replace just speakers due to something Bose does. If I can just swap speakers to upgrade the current sound, sounds like a good investment. 

Posted

I have a 19 with the Bose system. You can just swap the speakers but get the connectors from crutchfield or you’ll end up having to cut the factory one off the oem speaker wires.

 

The timing ends up a bit of a mess and the infinity coax’s that I used are way to bright causing me to have the treble turned almost all the way down but it’s manageable and a heck of a lot better. Start with the 6x9’s though as I mentioned, you may not need to change the dash speakers.

Posted

Just do the whole thing - you might just end up doing it anyway. The stock amp sucks even with high sensitivity speakers. I started on my 13 non bose with some polk speakers all around; then I added an amp because they needed more power to run clean; then added a sub cause they were all treble. Its a slippery slope. If you need more treble, then get new speakers only; leave it alone if you cant do it all.

 

You can put together a decent system cheap on amz with a pioneer 4 channel amp bridgable amp, 2 front door speakers and sub - dont waste your money on rear speakers. An amp wire kit and a power on/rca adapter completes the set up. Takes a couple hours and easily under 350 bones (plus the manly satisfaction of accomplishment). You tube and forums will show you everything - I did my 1st install in my 40s with zero experience, and then did 4-5 more after that (wifes ride, boat, new trucks, etc.). Easy peasy japanesey...

 

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...
Posted
On 10/25/2019 at 4:21 PM, 808 HI said:

It's night and day difference. Replaced all door and front dash speakers with Alpine type S to the factory head unit and no amp and well worth the money. 

Just ordered those same speaker, 6x9 front door and 6.5 rear door.  Got a really good deal on Crutchfield $145 shipped for everything including install brackets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 642 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...