2017 Big Stereo install, Small issues to work out

[jgadget]

Hello Everyone,

 

I just installed a large to me stereo in my 2017 and kind of went a little bit overboard haha.

 

Front speakers: Focal PS165F

Rear Speakers Focal PC165F

DSP: Audison Bit Nove

Highs amp (front mid and tweeter active):  Alpine X-A70F

Rear speakers: Infinity Primus 6002A

Bass: Alpine X-A90M

 

Doors got 3 layers of sound (inside skin, door, door panel)

 

here is a flicker link to pictures of the build https://flic.kr/s/aHsmJkEcDZ

 

the issue I'm having is I'm getting some alternator noise, an intermittent high pitch noise that will completely disappear when it wants too, and also a little white noise.

 

The t harness I made also connects the stock speaker wires running to the doors back in ( im wondering if this is causing noise as well)

I have the 0 gauge is run down left side,  t harness down right side.

 

Upgraded the battery terminals so the main power is now 0 gauge but still have not finished the rest of the big3 upgrade.  (which may be part of the problem stock grounds are very small)

 

I have the system grounded to one of the seatbelt bolts (grounded off paint).  I'm have been thinking of putting a newmar 150a alternator noise filter and also put a power filter on the audison dsp.

 

I have not had a chance to check for ground loop, also it could be the quality of the RCA

 

Any help would be great, Appreciate it!

 

 

Edited November 13, 2019 by jgadget

[Snowcamo]

Alternator noise usually points to a>>>> insufficientl ground

 

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Cheers to your new badass system bro!

 

Edit: speech to text sucks!

[jgadget]

38 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Alternator noise usually points to a I'm sufficiently ground with too much load on it. You might find that your new amplifier and Equipment gets hot to the touch if so you need a new ground.

 

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Cheers to your new badass system bro!

Thanks for the advice,  thinking about running out the cab and down to a frame rail or running it up and putting it with the main ground wire to the frame (which would be switched to 0 gauge.

 

[1SLOW1500]

I would upgrade the ground to battery. Also it is only my option but I try to keep power as short as possible. I ran it through the grommet on the passenger side. On ground I cleared paint on a 10mm bolt and used a lug mount. It bolts smoothly and tight to the floor then has a large hole and huge allen screw. And I add grease and crank it down. I also have all equipment on one ground.
I have a cap and also 2 batteries. Didn't have to increase stock wire size.

On 0ga I would run wire down firewall, there is mounting bolts away from heat. Under cab with stock harness and they make nice plastic bulkhead fittings that clamp down. Drill that corner of back wall.
Also it seem over kill bit if possible I cut out a large square behind amps and have wire come in the back. This allows you to keep space between rca and power.


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[jgadget]

20 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I would upgrade the ground to battery. Also it is only my option but I try to keep power as short as possible. I ran it through the grommet on the passenger side. On ground I cleared paint on a 10mm bolt and used a lug mount. It bolts smoothly and tight to the floor then has a large hole and huge allen screw. And I add grease and crank it down. I also have all equipment on one ground.
I have a cap and also 2 batteries. Didn't have to increase stock wire size.

On 0ga I would run wire down firewall, there is mounting bolts away from heat. Under cab with stock harness and they make nice plastic bulkhead fittings that clamp down. Drill that corner of back wall.
Also it seem over kill bit if possible I cut out a large square behind amps and have wire come in the back. This allows you to keep space between rca and power.


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im not sold on a cap,  done a lot of reading about them.

[1SLOW1500]

im not sold on a cap,  done a lot of reading about them.

I agree their are pros and cons and in my setup it isn't needed. Also they are sometimes a issue with battery drain. But there is no question they stabilize the voltage and compensate for smaller wire size.
Mine is a digital auto discharge 1.5 but I had a huge 15frad in a different build in the past. And buddy had the 50frad in his truck. Even with 4 battery we had to upgrade alternator.
Thing to know is the cap should and in larger caps must be relay isolated. The big ones come with a isolator so cap doesn't draw of the battery at the same time you start truck.

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