Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I measured my receiver height and noticed it is a mere 3" taller then my 2002 1500.  Im sure it will squat less so maybe a 4" effective change in height.

 

I have a e2 equalizer wd setup that I hope will still work, but not sure if I can drop the ball low enough without some custom parts.   For other towing Im going to get a 4" drop ball mount.


Overall, as tall as the truck is they at least kept the hitch height relatively low.   
 

2020 3500HD Crew cab 18" rims  

 

 

Posted

i have an equilizer as well. The standard hitch (7" drop I believe) works well with mine. Will probably spring for the B&W tow and stow  for general trailer use.

Posted

Does anybody know if there is any different in receiver height between the 2020s and the previous generation HD?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I had to buy a 10" drop hitch to use with my inline snowmobile trailer to level it out. It does have a rather low tongue height as it was an underslung frame design to make it wider than their normal inline trailers. In the pictures I have 800 lbs of tongue weight. I had written down how much sag I had with my 2013 1500 Silverado with air bags and how much the 2020 2500HD sagged, but I can't find that paper right now. I did just pickup 22 cement blocks at 33 lbs each, so that was supposed to be 726 lbs and the truck sagged 1 inch measured at the top of the rear fender.

 

The picture with my bass boat was with a 6" drop hitch that I had when test driving the truck and was the lowest hitch I had. I bought a used fixed 8" drop hitch to use with the boat. I haven't checked to see if the boat trailer frame is level with that hitch but it should be close.

 

Right now I'm changing up my custom set of hitch mounted mud flaps as that 2.5" Weigh Safe hitch doesn't have enough room to mount a set of Rock Tampers or my custom set. The 2" Weigh Safe hitch does have enough room though, but is rated lower for capacity. Just something to think about as I figure most people that pay a good chuck of change for a big drop hitch are going to be pulling a nice trailer that they want to keep protected with some additional hitch mounted mud flaps.

 

IMG_20190919_191210s.thumb.jpg.67d6d0b4d54e1f3c47df17e056a5a408.jpgIMG_20190919_192054s.thumb.jpg.29d2aa35823b2993c3f4bf203ba8b9cb.jpgIMG_20190919_192013s.thumb.jpg.cd3dbf2e76df60db1cdd6ccf4a2827b3.jpgIMG_20190908_114556S.thumb.jpg.20b56ae3521e9fea479dc64d77f23e90.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Nice to see they changed safety chain hooks on new trucks. I had to put hooks on mine because chains wouldn't fit in it.

Posted

Thanks for the pics!  I havent adjusted my wd hitch yet to see if it will work.  My camper is winterized and wont be moved until Feb so I have next month to figure it out.  

Posted

I just traded my 2016 2500HD for a 2020 3500HD.  I used the weigh safe 180 with 8" drop and loved it because I tow a lot of different trailers.  The easy adjustability for ball size and drop are great. I just hope the 8" drop is enough now with the new truck.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/23/2019 at 5:29 AM, skorpyd said:

I just traded my 2016 2500HD for a 2020 3500HD.  I used the weigh safe 180 with 8" drop and loved it because I tow a lot of different trailers.  The easy adjustability for ball size and drop are great. I just hope the 8" drop is enough now with the new truck.

I am looking into this same hitch for my truck (when it arrives).  Have you found the 8" drop to be the right length?  Thanks.

Posted (edited)

So far the 8" drop has been fine with the new 3500HD also, I put it on the bottom holes for my enclosed trailer and it is fine.

Edited by skorpyd
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 12/11/2019 at 11:51 AM, SkidooSteve12 said:

I had to buy a 10" drop hitch to use with my inline snowmobile trailer to level it out. It does have a rather low tongue height as it was an underslung frame design to make it wider than their normal inline trailers. In the pictures I have 800 lbs of tongue weight. I had written down how much sag I had with my 2013 1500 Silverado with air bags and how much the 2020 2500HD sagged, but I can't find that paper right now. I did just pickup 22 cement blocks at 33 lbs each, so that was supposed to be 726 lbs and the truck sagged 1 inch measured at the top of the rear fender.

 

The picture with my bass boat was with a 6" drop hitch that I had when test driving the truck and was the lowest hitch I had. I bought a used fixed 8" drop hitch to use with the boat. I haven't checked to see if the boat trailer frame is level with that hitch but it should be close.

 

Right now I'm changing up my custom set of hitch mounted mud flaps as that 2.5" Weigh Safe hitch doesn't have enough room to mount a set of Rock Tampers or my custom set. The 2" Weigh Safe hitch does have enough room though, but is rated lower for capacity. Just something to think about as I figure most people that pay a good chuck of change for a big drop hitch are going to be pulling a nice trailer that they want to keep protected with some additional hitch mounted mud flaps.

 

IMG_20190919_191210s.thumb.jpg.67d6d0b4d54e1f3c47df17e056a5a408.jpgIMG_20190919_192054s.thumb.jpg.29d2aa35823b2993c3f4bf203ba8b9cb.jpgIMG_20190919_192013s.thumb.jpg.cd3dbf2e76df60db1cdd6ccf4a2827b3.jpgIMG_20190908_114556S.thumb.jpg.20b56ae3521e9fea479dc64d77f23e90.jpg

What length inline snowmobile trailer is that, 28'?

Posted
1 hour ago, SnowsledBen said:

What length inline snowmobile trailer is that, 28'?

It is 29 ft long X 7.5' wide and 6.5' tall. I was able to fit 5 full size sleds and 1 Mini-Z sled in it a few weeks ago.

 

IMG_20210220_164352.thumb.jpg.998e2b1c461c500ec186f09339889ce6.jpg

 

 

This is with a spare sled, 1200cc Grand Touring, sitting in the nose of the trailer.

 

IMG_20210221_165758.thumb.jpg.01a006e50c870c4c60ec9c9ebc599d02.jpg

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,506 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...