Jump to content

Interior lighting?

mandrewbot3k
 Share

Recommended Posts

dgstarr63 Enthusiast

dgstarr63

Posted
Posted

I purchased this product from Amazon Prime for $12.99: Auto Car Ceiling Roof Lights Dual-color Fixture with Universal USB.  It is a rechargeable LED round dome lamp. Works great accept that the double stick tape would not stay on my cloth headliner. I then installed a heavy duty 3M tape from Home Depot (with red backing). So far it has not come off. I would recommend these products.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

econometrics
econometrics

The interior lights really are terrible in the T1. From the lack of vanity lights to the very limited coverage of the LED overhead lights. GM missed it here. 

Smoothbassman
Smoothbassman

Yes.    I installed the OPT7 floor lighting kit.        The lights turn white when you open the door.   Easy 60 minute install.     

2020 SLT owner
2020 SLT owner

Thanks for the lead on the Oznium 11 mm LED light.  I do not have a skylight, sliding window or Homelink, so there was more places I could put the lights. First thing is you need a long T10 driver t

Posted Images

mandrewbot3k Enthusiast

mandrewbot3k

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 2/16/2021 at 3:00 PM, kodiakdenali said:

Not sure if the dome behaves differently on different trims but on mine the BCM output does not turn on if you turn on the map lights individually, but there is also a manual dome light button on the overhead console, that one turns on all of the map lights front and back, it does turn on the BCM output which activates the extra lights. I like it very much this way. if I really want light I can push that button, but if I just need to see but don't want super bright light I can push the individual lights which turn on that one light only. the passenger can still turn on their light to see something without turning all of the interior lights on which would be way too bright at night time with the addons...it actually works great!

 

On 2/16/2021 at 2:52 PM, mandrewbot3k said:

 

 

image.thumb.png.b766ed2f2f2f6b87cce2056b3aa566ef.png

 

 

Just wanted to follow up that the DPDT relay with a 100uF capacitor worked much better. There is less of a delay when switching from door assist mode to regular operation. Works well when applying the dome light manually too. It's a great upgrade.

  • 3 months later...
todd308 Enthusiast

todd308

Posted
Posted (edited)

One interesting issue I had messing around with these mods is that when I did the overhead console mod, I had no problems just tapping the gray interior lamp control wire, running a ground and that was fine. 

 

As a second mod I was going to add footwell lights, but BCM X1 pin 23 didn't seem to have any power when I checked it with a working LED I use for testing, even when the dome lights were on.   Pretty sure I had the right module it was the only one with gray wires in pins 21 and 23, and if unplugged it killed the interior lights.    In the end I just wired them into one of my upfitter switches.   

 

Using a meter it does look like the voltage increases on the 23 pin when the dome lights are on, but it's a tiny amount like 0.1v that seems nowhere near enough to trigger a 12v relay.  Is anyone actually powering lights off this 23 pin wire, like in the overhead console, or only using it to trigger a relay?   

 

 

Edited by todd308
  • 5 months later...
tom orosz New Member

tom orosz

Posted
Posted
On 12/15/2019 at 11:18 PM, mandrewbot3k said:

 

Has anyone added any interior lighting?

 

It’s awfully dark inside the cab when I’m looking for stuff at night. Don’t feel like I should need a flashlight for my truck.

 

I feel like every other tick I’ve had had nice bright lights on the door near the kicker panel and could actually illuminate the cab.

 

Just curious if anyone’s added anything like led lighting below the dash or anything?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

  • 4 months later...
Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted

I have been browsing this forum for about two months. I have finally just joined. So much great information and knowledge. I want to thank kodiakdenali, Arboc, Rook126 and 2020 SLT owner for your knowledge and experience for the interior lighting install. I have just completed the 11mm Oznium LED install in my TB and it has made a huge difference! I will try to start posting more regularly now that I am a member. Again thank you. 

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...
escinct New Member

escinct

Posted
Posted

I have a 2024 1500 trail boss with base interior. I just tried the mod with the bolt lights, but neither gray wire in the right plug on the ceiling console gives any voltage when I open the doors. I don't understand how this can be possible because unplugging the right plug makes the dome lights go out, so I know it has to come in that right plug

Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, escinct said:

I have a 2024 1500 trail boss with base interior. I just tried the mod with the bolt lights, but neither gray wire in the right plug on the ceiling console gives any voltage when I open the doors. I don't understand how this can be possible because unplugging the right plug makes the dome lights go out, so I know it has to come in that right plug

Welcome to the forum. You are on the right track. It is one of the grey wires in the right plug for the overhead console. You are probably not getting a good connection to the tiny connectors in that plug. Not sure what kind of test light or multi meter probes you are using but try this. Open up a paper clip and back probe the connectors for the grey wires. What I mean is probe the connector from the back side or the side that the wire enters using the paper clip as a probe and connect your test light or multi meter to the paper clip to get a good connection. Remember that the dome light circuit will time out so when you have your paper clip, test light or multi meter  circuit complete open and close the door and you will see the gray wire energize and turn off when the door is closed. 

Let us know if that worked for you.

escinct New Member

escinct

Posted
Posted

Thank you for getting back to me. I took your advice and used a paper clip from the back of the plug. Made sure that I had good ground and, of course, made sure these new lights worked when plugged directly to the battery. I still find that neither gray wire has power when I open the doors. But I did find that the brown wire with the blue tracer did. I tested them all and a couple of the other wires had low voltage coming through when you open the doors. The brown wire was the only one that was exactly what I needed for dome lights. Not sure why this would be different on my truck, but it is.  It was in the third slot from the bottom right in the plug when plugged in.

20250111_135404.jpg

20250111_142424.jpg

Bikerjon Enthusiast

Bikerjon

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, escinct said:

Thank you for getting back to me. I took your advice and used a paper clip from the back of the plug. Made sure that I had good ground and, of course, made sure these new lights worked when plugged directly to the battery. I still find that neither gray wire has power when I open the doors. But I did find that the brown wire with the blue tracer did. I tested them all and a couple of the other wires had low voltage coming through when you open the doors. The brown wire was the only one that was exactly what I needed for dome lights. Not sure why this would be different on my truck, but it is.  It was in the third slot from the bottom right in the plug when plugged in.

20250111_135404.jpg

20250111_142424.jpg

Giad you got it working. I have a 2025 Trail Boss that I am going to do this mod to. I will be checking on that brown w/blue wire that you mention.

escinct New Member

escinct

Posted
Posted

My tips are: Tap the wire with a red t-tap splice, the blue ones are probably too big.

Buy the cool white bolt lights, they match the other lights exactly. 

You don't need to disassemble the black backing off the ceiling console like the OP did. Just remove the part you'll be drilling and make sure you drill directly centered on those tabs sticking out of the back of that piece.

20241223_151437.jpg

20241230_150924.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
bbqjoe Enthusiast

bbqjoe

Posted
Posted

I am getting ready to add RGBW LED modules that I have leftover from another project to our under the dash and rear seats.  I want the white to come on with the doors and the blue with the running lights, but modules and tape light all use a common positive wire and switch the negative to turn on the different colors.  A friend that knows electronics suggested I use a Low-side transistor off of my +12 trigger to control the LED as I want them to dim up/down with the dome light.  I am looking at about 8w at 12V, will that cause issues with the BCM?  Also is the BCM in my 24 Sierra AT4 closer to the gas or the brake peddle? Just not enough space to get my big head under there to look.

WestTXborder New Member

WestTXborder

Posted
Posted
On 1/11/2025 at 12:59 PM, escinct said:

Thank you for getting back to me. I took your advice and used a paper clip from the back of the plug. Made sure that I had good ground and, of course, made sure these new lights worked when plugged directly to the battery. I still find that neither gray wire has power when I open the doors. But I did find that the brown wire with the blue tracer did. I tested them all and a couple of the other wires had low voltage coming through when you open the doors. The brown wire was the only one that was exactly what I needed for dome lights. Not sure why this would be different on my truck, but it is.  It was in the third slot from the bottom right in the plug when plugged in.

20250111_135404.jpg.

 

I found the schematic for the roof connector...

Snap4.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...