Jump to content

Shell Rotella Gas Truck


Bob2C

Recommended Posts

Posted
That's very nice of you, did you watch the video yet?
 
You never got back to me about your claim of the reduction in GM oil change interval parameters. I looked, couldn't find anything.
 
I didn't realize Amsoil was now a group V oil (always thought it was a group lV).
 
And yes, agree Rotella has jumped on marketing claims and an apparent niche in the  automotive market (SUV's and trucks). lol. But then again I guess they all make their claims. Shell I believe also makes Pennzoil Products, and they too have thier claims - the good old GTL. Gas to liquid. The never ending quest to make to make the perfect little round molecule. Kind of like the claim to fame of a group lV. 
 
Personally I'll never go over 5,000 miles on any oil right now with a direct injection engine...been down that road before. Not doing it again. 
 
Good luck to you too.

I saw it, a few people have recalled seeing it too. Best to consult with your dealer to see if they’ve heard about it. I’m with the extended crowd with certain applications. My Camry is recommended for 10K I go around 8K. After warranty I’ll switch to Amsoil and go extended. It doesn’t have a Frankenstein engine. My 11 Genesis gets changed under 4K per dealer instructions. I’m still under warranty even now. After I’ll go Amsoil and bump it. Several family members are more frugal with vehicles than me and have very old diesels on yearly oil changes with Amsoil. But on cylinder deactivation engines I wouldn’t go over 5K or turbo engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
2 hours ago, Doublebase said:

I mean, I wouldn't run an oil 11,000 miles, but blackstone is saying he could have gone further. Wear metals are right where they're supposed to be. 

 

I didn't see what the TAN was...are you saying the TAN had dropped to the point of corrosion? Or sludge buildup? Varnish? 

 

 

TAN is the acid number. A property of the fluid. TBN is the base number and a property of the acid neutral additive package. Calcium, magnesium, etc. As oil ages the TAN rises and the TBN falls but not at the same rates. In fact an acid number that rises just 0.05 units says stick me with a fork. Anyway it is a positive number. In my last used oil sample (Red Line) the TAN was 2.71 units.  Point is even in this PAO/POE based oil where you would not expect to see such a high acid value...there it was. 

 

I worked with a fella who bought a 1972 Monty Carlo 350 brand spanking new and NEVER changed the oil nor the filter EVER. Just added recycled make up oil as he saw fit. When it got noisy he added a bottle (or two) of STP or EP 140 gear oil. Whatever he had on hand. I lost track of that car when I moved north in the early 90's but it had nearly 200K on the clock then. 

 

Witnessing that did in no way teach me that oil changes are not required. 

:idiot:

 

 

Posted
12 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I saw it, a few people have recalled seeing it too. Best to consult with your dealer to see if they’ve heard about it. I’m with the extended crowd with certain applications. My Camry is recommended for 10K I go around 8K. After warranty I’ll switch to Amsoil and go extended. It doesn’t have a Frankenstein engine. My 11 Genesis gets changed under 4K per dealer instructions. I’m still under warranty even now. After I’ll go Amsoil and bump it. Several family members are more frugal with vehicles than me and have very old diesels on yearly oil changes with Amsoil. But on cylinder deactivation engines I wouldn’t go over 5K or turbo engines.

https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/sipping-fuel/

 

Part way down you will find this paragraph: 

 

Like the AFM/DOD system, you will hear me preaching about the importance of using the correct engine oil and filter along with the need to change it often. A tremendous amount of the issues with the AFM/ DOD system on both the GM and Dodge applications are due to poor maintenance on the part of the owner, it’s an expensive lesson to learn. While all these vehicles are equipped with engine oil life monitors, it’s been shown to be prudent to change your oil and filter well prior to the system indicating that the oil should be changed.

Posted
TAN is the acid number. A property of the fluid. TBN is the base number and a property of the acid neutral additive package. Calcium, magnesium, etc. As oil ages the TAN rises and the TBN falls but not at the same rates. In fact an acid number that rises just 0.05 units says stick me with a fork. Anyway it is a positive number. In my last used oil sample (Red Line) the TAN was 2.71 units.  Point is even in this PAO/POE based oil where you would not expect to see such a high acid value...there it was. 
 
I worked with a fella who bought a 1972 Monty Carlo 350 brand spanking new and NEVER changed the oil nor the filter EVER. Just added recycled make up oil as he saw fit. When it got noisy he added a bottle (or two) of STP or EP 140 gear oil. Whatever he had on hand. I lost track of that car when I moved north in the early 90's but it had nearly 200K on the clock then. 

 

Witnessing that did in no way teach me that oil changes are not required. 

:idiot:

 
 

I had an uncle who was oil change challenge. I remember a Chevy truck that was quite noisy but it ran.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/sipping-fuel/
 
Part way down you will find this paragraph: 
 
Like the AFM/DOD system, you will hear me preaching about the importance of using the correct engine oil and filter along with the need to change it often. A tremendous amount of the issues with the AFM/ DOD system on both the GM and Dodge applications are due to poor maintenance on the part of the owner, it’s an expensive lesson to learn. While all these vehicles are equipped with engine oil life monitors, it’s been shown to be prudent to change your oil and filter well prior to the system indicating that the oil should be changed.

I was at the shop just prior to the holidays. My brother drives a Ram the sales man I talk to drove a 14 GMC. He’s an Amsoil enthusiast, probably from working for my brother. At 90K miles he changes once a year. My brother gave an older Ram to his parts guy as a bonus. His old Ram over 200K miles. His shop Forman drives a Ram too. All cylinder deactivation engines, extended oil changes. I recommend backing off the extended a bit. Usually they would do the Amsoil flush with oil changes, I’m sure that helps. I also recommended checking out web sites like this one to keep up with changes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:


I saw it, a few people have recalled seeing it too. Best to consult with your dealer to see if they’ve heard about it. I’m with the extended crowd with certain applications. My Camry is recommended for 10K I go around 8K. After warranty I’ll switch to Amsoil and go extended. It doesn’t have a Frankenstein engine. My 11 Genesis gets changed under 4K per dealer instructions. I’m still under warranty even now. After I’ll go Amsoil and bump it. Several family members are more frugal with vehicles than me and have very old diesels on yearly oil changes with Amsoil. But on cylinder deactivation engines I wouldn’t go over 5K or turbo engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, I haven't seen or heard about the 5k oil interval with GM, that would really be something. GM actually heading downwards and downwards with their interval lengths. There's a lot of people that could argue for days over something major like that. I personally don't go past 5,000 miles on direct injection engines but that's just me. Amsoil is the only thing I'd feel comfortable on doing the extended intervals, but even with Amsoil I wouldn't push it (like you said) with the collapsible lifters and stuff. 

 

I do know a lot of people doing the 10k oil changes on Toyotas without issue, but Toyota was a little late to the direct injection game.

Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

TAN is the acid number. A property of the fluid. TBN is the base number and a property of the acid neutral additive package. Calcium, magnesium, etc. As oil ages the TAN rises and the TBN falls but not at the same rates. In fact an acid number that rises just 0.05 units says stick me with a fork. Anyway it is a positive number. In my last used oil sample (Red Line) the TAN was 2.71 units.  Point is even in this PAO/POE based oil where you would not expect to see such a high acid value...there it was. 

 

I worked with a fella who bought a 1972 Monty Carlo 350 brand spanking new and NEVER changed the oil nor the filter EVER. Just added recycled make up oil as he saw fit. When it got noisy he added a bottle (or two) of STP or EP 140 gear oil. Whatever he had on hand. I lost track of that car when I moved north in the early 90's but it had nearly 200K on the clock then. 

 

Witnessing that did in no way teach me that oil changes are not required. 

:idiot:

 

 

I knew about the TBN and TAN, but in the used analysis I didn't know what the TAN was in the report. You're assuming it was high? Ok , makes sense, especially if your Redline edged up that high (on a much shorter interval I assume).

 

I like my fluids changed before manufacturer recommendations. Especially engine oil. It just makes me feel "better". I'm at 44,000 miles now; my tranny has been changed twice, diffs twice, transfer case once. The only fluid I haven't touched is the coolant - that's probably the only fluid I may keep in there at or close to factory recommendations (but I'll probably get antsy and change it at 90K).

 

One thing I do wonder about...if I should perhaps bump it up to a 5w30 at some point. Curious your opinion on that. 

 

Edit-- and I do have some crazy stories about people and their oil change habits. But never changing the oil or filter? That takes the cake.

Posted
Wow, I haven't seen or heard about the 5k oil interval with GM, that would really be something. GM actually heading downwards and downwards with their interval lengths. There's a lot of people that could argue for days over something major like that. I personally don't go past 5,000 miles on direct injection engines but that's just me. Amsoil is the only thing I'd feel comfortable on doing the extended intervals, but even with Amsoil I wouldn't push it (like you said) with the collapsible lifters and stuff. 
 
I do know a lot of people doing the 10k oil changes on Toyotas without issue, but Toyota was a little late to the direct injection game.

My 17 Toyota Camry is simple. I like old school and simple. I’ve never seen the point of more than a six speed transmission, unless pulling. My GPS, music, radio, all through my phone. I have fancy vehicles don’t use the sun roof, GPS, or satellite radio. I appreciate DI engines, usually the foreign auto makers figure out how to make them last first, the domestics later. The cylinder deactivation stuff is still too new for my money. My father in law had a Honda mini van start using oil at 94K miles. Probably due to cylinder deactivation and following the Honda oil change recommended. He just traded it in for a little Honda SUV. He’s 89 it’ll probably last him. He’s digging the new technology it has.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 minutes ago, KARNUT said:


My 17 Toyota Camry is simple. I like old school and simple. I’ve never seen the point of more than a six speed transmission, unless pulling. My GPS, music, radio, all through my phone. I have fancy vehicles don’t use the sun roof, GPS, or satellite radio. I appreciate DI engines, usually the foreign auto makers figure out how to make them last first, the domestics later. The cylinder deactivation stuff is still too new for my money. My father in law had a Honda mini van start using oil at 94K miles. Probably due to cylinder deactivation and following the Honda oil change recommended. He just traded it in for a little Honda SUV. He’s 89 it’ll probably last him. He’s digging the new technology it has.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I agree.

 

And that Honda mini van your father in law had trouble with, he wasn't alone. The Honda Odyssey's had issues with oil consumption. Ring replacement recall as well depending on VIN. Probably didn't help that Honda decided to allow their oil life monitors to go as far out as they did (on conventional oil). I have met more than one tech that has left Honda because of their ridiculously low labor times to change out the rings on that motor. Slave labor.   

Posted
Yeah I agree.
 
And that Honda mini van your father in law had trouble with, he wasn't alone. The Honda Odyssey's had issues with oil consumption. Ring replacement recall as well depending on VIN. Probably didn't help that Honda decided to allow their oil life monitors to go as far out as they did (on conventional oil). I have met more than one tech that has left Honda because of their ridiculously low labor times to change out the rings on that motor. Slave labor.   

That’s encouraging, my daughter has a 17.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
22 minutes ago, KARNUT said:


That’s encouraging, my daughter has a 17.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol. I think she'll be fine, it was more the older models. Haven't heard anything on the newer models...maybe some electrical issues...entertainment/information/technology glitches, but haven't heard anything mechanically.   

Posted
4 hours ago, Doublebase said:

I knew about the TBN and TAN, but in the used analysis I didn't know what the TAN was in the report. You're assuming it was high? Ok , makes sense, especially if your Redline edged up that high (on a much shorter interval I assume).

 

I like my fluids changed before manufacturer recommendations. Especially engine oil. It just makes me feel "better". I'm at 44,000 miles now; my tranny has been changed twice, diffs twice, transfer case once. The only fluid I haven't touched is the coolant - that's probably the only fluid I may keep in there at or close to factory recommendations (but I'll probably get antsy and change it at 90K).

 

One thing I do wonder about...if I should perhaps bump it up to a 5w30 at some point. Curious your opinion on that. 

 

Edit-- and I do have some crazy stories about people and their oil change habits. But never changing the oil or filter? That takes the cake.

It wont hurt a thing. 

Posted

https://pqia.org/shell-rotella-gas-truck-full-synthetic-sae-5w-20-motor-oil/

This is the pqia test results for rotella gas truck 5w-20w. I like the low noack volatility of 7.2 ! Assuming the 5w-30w is similar I think it is excellent oil for the 4.3 ecotec3.

Healthy doses of zinc, moly and boron too.Whats to not like?

Posted
22 hours ago, Sierra Sik said:

Learned two new things in this report. DEXOS and  the European standard ACEA has a lower NOACH requirement than SAE SN or SNPLUS. 13% v 15%. A distinction with little difference however.  

 

Trend in lower calcium and increased magnesium to combat LSPI. Total amounts seem about the same. Oddly motorcycle oils have always preferred magnesium to calcium for the most part. No a concern unless turbocharged and GDI. 

 

Thanks! 

Posted
On 12/29/2019 at 1:53 PM, Sierra Sik said:

https://pqia.org/shell-rotella-gas-truck-full-synthetic-sae-5w-20-motor-oil/

This is the pqia test results for rotella gas truck 5w-20w. I like the low noack volatility of 7.2 ! Assuming the 5w-30w is similar I think it is excellent oil for the 4.3 ecotec3.

Healthy doses of zinc, moly and boron too.Whats to not like?

7.2 NOACK is outstanding for a 5w20 oil, might explain why I've been using less oil using this brand than with others.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...