Build a torque motor or 6.0 swap

[Jrp79]

I got a 4.8 auto. Debating on if i should 6.0 swap it or buy a 5.3 and bore and stroke it to 5.7. I heard if i stroke and bore to a 5.7 that that is pretty much the max on bore and issues could increase with that much bore.. now is it possible to go as far as a 4.0 stroke or even a 5.7 stroke with std size 5.3 pistons..
Also wanted to know if a longer stroke makes it easier to get more torque.
By the way truck is a dd with no track time.just like punch burns every now and then..wont see past 6k rpm. Have a cai, free flowing duals and will get a black bear tune for what ever i go with.

[CamGTP]

Slap a 6.0 and call it good.

 

You'll spend way too much money trying to make a 5.3 something better. All those parts and machine shop work to just get you to a 5.7 is far above the cost of a nice 6.0 engine.

 

Find a nice LQ4 or LQ9, clean it up and put it in there. Hope that your transmission is healthy and be on your way.

[Mike GMC]

You should be able to build a 383 from a 5.3 block.  I believe Scat sells the rotating assembly.  The only thing you need to check is have you machinist make sure your block can handle the overbore.  The Scat site has the required bore specs.  If I recall, it was basically the same bore as the stock 5.7 LS1.  I have a 5.3 on a stand in the garage I've been wanting to do this to.

[swathdiver]

X2, What Cameron said.  Fun to build something unique but way more expensive than a drop in 6.0 or 6.2 depending on your generation and sources.

[Grumpy Bear]

15 hours ago, Jrp79 said:

Also wanted to know if a longer stroke makes it easier to get more torque.
 

Tricky question no one answered. Given the same displacement a longer stroke and smaller bore allow the "same" torque at lower rpm. Just adding stroke, thus displacement will add torque and lower the rpm at which it happens. That is up to the heads/cam flow limits. The limits on either, if flow is satisfied, are BMEP for the fuel. FYI. 

[Jrp79]

Is there a specific year lq4 or lq9 i should look for? Is it a direct plug and play swap minus the knock sensors?

[CamGTP]

You never said what year truck you owned so I assumed 99-07 body style.

 

If that is true find pretty much any 01-07 GEN 3 6.0 engine, it would swap right in.

 

If you own a newer body style 07-13 truck you need a LY6 or L96 engine to make it plug and play minus the tuning.

 

There is a ton different between the GEN 3 engine and a GEN 4 engine so swapping those around into different body style will be a headache.

[Jrp79]

19 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

You never said what year truck you owned so I assumed 99-07 body style.

 

If that is true find pretty much any 01-07 GEN 3 6.0 engine, it would swap right in.

 

If you own a newer body style 07-13 truck you need a LY6 or L96 engine to make it plug and play minus the tuning.

 

There is a ton different between the GEN 3 engine and a GEN 4 engine so swapping those around into different body style will be a headache.

I got a 99 Silverado 2wd extended cab..so off looking for a gen lll.

Thanks guys... when i start the swap ill start a new build thread with all the info and pics

 

[swathdiver]

On 5/15/2020 at 7:11 PM, Jrp79 said:

I got a 99 Silverado 2wd extended cab..so off looking for a gen lll.

Thanks guys... when i start the swap ill start a new build thread with all the info and pics

 

Watch out for those first year Gen III 6.0s, they had iron heads if memory serves.

[Mike GMC]

Exactly, get an 01 or newer to work well.  The older ones had an odd connection flange at the crank for the flex plate as well.  You will likely need to use you old flex plate with the 6.0, so no need to get the 6.0 flex plate with the engine.  You may also want to use your existing intake manifold and fuel rails and injectors unless you think you have a problem with them.  Just makes sure all the connections are in the right place.  Also, most 6.0's came in trucks with hydro boost brakes, so the manifolds don't have the vacuum connection for the brake booster.