Jump to content

How cold is your AC?

truckguy82
 Share

Recommended Posts

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted (edited)

So my 2014 AC went bad about 2 years ago as they all do, had the dealer make the repairs.

 

Recently on a 97 degree day I was parked outside in the sun doing some work, and had the AC set on auto to 70. Even though I was sitting for about 30 minutes, the fan just ran on full blast the entire time and it never seemed to get comfortable inside.

 

I don’t remember the AC ever having trouble keeping up regardless of the temp outside. Just curious if your guys trucks can handle that no problem. It doesn’t seem that cold anymore and I suspect there is a pinhole leak. But I guess it could also be all in my head.

Edited by truckguy82
B R A D Enthusiast

B R A D

Posted
Posted

I think if you are wishing to feel the artic chill you need to put your air on "Low" instead 70 whatever degrees.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, B R A D said:

I think if you are wishing to feel the artic chill you need to put your air on "Low" instead 70 whatever degrees.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Yeah but shouldn’t the cabin eventually get to 70 degrees and kick the fans down regardless?

 

fan was running at full tilt for 30 minutes

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 minutes ago, James ****** said:

Im in AZ and my ac is freezing cold and stays that way. It isnt humid here though 

Gotcha so I have a problem.

 

hmmm do I diy recharge or take it to the dealer?

 

 

LDM Enthusiast

LDM

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, truckguy82 said:

Gotcha so I have a problem.

 

hmmm do I diy recharge or take it to the dealer?

 

 

I didn't have any issues with my 2015 the 2 years I had her.  My 2018 has only been through 1 summer so far and no issues there either.

 

What is the temperature of the air coming out of the vents?  It should be about 30-35 F cooler than the ambient temp when you have it on full fan with recirc turned on.

 

If you aren't getting that air temp out of the vents, you probably have an issue with your AC.  If you want to DIY, you really need to get a good set of gauges to be able to properly troubleshoot your AC system, one that has both Low and High.  Those Low gauges that come with a can of 134a really doesn't tell you anything without knowing what the high side is at in comparison to ambient temperature.  If you aren't comfortable with that, I would recommend taking it to a shop that specializes in AC systems.  Your 2014 still has 134a so you shouldn't have an issue find one that can work with your system in your truck.  I don't recommend the dealer as they are overpriced, unless you have some extended warranty and don't have to pay their ridiculous markups.

RichardG Enthusiast

RichardG

Posted
Posted (edited)

FYI, my 2018 has R-1234yf. I'm not sure the year it switched.; be sure to check your manual/engine bay for listing. 

 

On a side note, I've noticed my 2018 (with the newer refrigerant) doesn't seem to cool nearly as fast as my R-134a vehicles. Can't remember the comparison to R12 but that's beside the point. My 2005 silverado (with the r-134a) cools down faster than my 2018 with r-1234yf. I'm not here to bash new technology or say I don't care about having a clean environment I'm just pointing out my anecdotal evidence. Someone with more and current HVAC experience can chime in on that. As mentioned, you'd need a set of gauges. I wouldn't generally recommend just adding it until the whole system is evacuated though. If you're unfamiliar with these kinds of procedures, paying a dealer/mechanic is probably worth the money to avoid the headache.

 

Edit: I see LDM mentioned you still have R-134a for 2014s. Well that's a plus I'd say. You can buy 35 lbs of that for cheap if you do it yourself. If I were you, I'd just take it in to a mechanic and avoid messing with it.

Edited by RichardG
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted (edited)

Had 85 Chevy Citation "Deuce-Deuce"  R12 baby....after your knuckles couldn't move and the dash pieces turned to Peanut Brittle it was time to turn it down from "Meat Locker" to "crisper" on the vertical slide!

 

Yeah, subsequently everything since than has gotten CHITTY, and Chittier!  Welcome to Liberal run society's! 

Edited by mookdoc6
  • Like 5
  • Haha 1
LDM Enthusiast

LDM

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, RichardG said:

FYI, my 2018 has R-1234yf. I'm not sure the year it switched.; be sure to check your manual/engine bay for listing. 

 

On a side note, I've noticed my 2018 (with the newer refrigerant) doesn't seem to cool nearly as fast as my R-134a vehicles. Can't remember the comparison to R12 but that's beside the point. My 2005 silverado (with the r-134a) cools down faster than my 2018 with r-1234yf. I'm not here to bash new technology or say I don't care about having a clean environment I'm just pointing out my anecdotal evidence. Someone with more and current HVAC experience can chime in on that. As mentioned, you'd need a set of gauges. I wouldn't generally recommend just adding it until the whole system is evacuated though. If you're unfamiliar with these kinds of procedures, paying a dealer/mechanic is probably worth the money to avoid the headache.

 

Edit: I see LDM mentioned you still have R-134a for 2014s. Well that's a plus I'd say. You can buy 35 lbs of that for cheap if you do it yourself. If I were you, I'd just take it in to a mechanic and avoid messing with it.

Yeah my 2018 is 1234yf as well, I believe the switch on the GM trucks was made in 17.  But its not been a hard transition so all the vehicles and manufacturers are different.  Unlike back when R12 was phased out and all vehicles had to be done by 95, but eventually everything will be 1234yf and 134a will end up like R12.  Then I'm sure they will find some problem with 1234yf and come up with an even more expensive thing to use.  But as more vehicles use the new 1234yf, the prices will come down just like they did with 134a.

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, LDM said:

Yeah my 2018 is 1234yf as well, I believe the switch on the GM trucks was made in 17.  But its not been a hard transition so all the vehicles and manufacturers are different.  Unlike back when R12 was phased out and all vehicles had to be done by 95, but eventually everything will be 1234yf and 134a will end up like R12.  Then I'm sure they will find some problem with 1234yf and come up with an even more expensive thing to use.  But as more vehicles use the new 1234yf, the prices will come down just like they did with 134a.

 

I hope so, GM retail on R1234yf is $118/lb.  R134a is $13/lb.  We are lucky to get 5 vehicles charged per tank of R1234yf.

Edited by newdude
RichardG Enthusiast

RichardG

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, newdude said:

 

I hope so, GM retail on R1234yf is $1175, so $118/lb.  R134a is $13/lb.  We are lucky to get 5 vehicles charged per tank of R1234yf.

1) I didn't realize I had the new stuff until this thread and I popped my hood. 2) Wow that is very expensive! I hope my system lasts quite a long time. My 2005 impala (bought in January 2008) never needed a charge/never had a leak even until I got rid of it in early 2020 because someone hit and run in my parking lot (enough damage to the front end to not justify saving a 15 yo 250k mile car - sold and replaced with my current 2005 silverado) and it worked very well even in Texas heat and humidity.

 

@LDM Yep no doubt.

Edited by RichardG
truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So if I take it to the dealer, are they going to swap the fluid out with the new stuff? I’d rather not pay for that stuff.

NCPGMC Enthusiast

NCPGMC

Posted
Posted

I would do some more "testing" before spending money on refrigerant. Other than putting some gauges on it, try putting yourself in the same scenario of idling in the the sun but bump it down to "LOW." I guess if it were me I would have turned the temp down while sitting to get it cooler in the cab. I usually keep mine around 70 or so most time but if I find myself sitting in the sun I drop it down for cooler air. Stick an instant read thermometer into the vent with it running and see what the temp is coming out of the vents.

LDM Enthusiast

LDM

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

So if I take it to the dealer, are they going to swap the fluid out with the new stuff? I’d rather not pay for that stuff.

No, they will not put 1234yf into a 134a system.  You need to determine what the issue is with the system, not just try recharging it.  AC systems are sealed systems and do not require maintenance unless there is a failure.  If you have a leak that caused your system to be low or out of refrigerant, you need to get the leak fixed, not just charge the system.

Cheverado Enthusiast

Cheverado

Posted
Posted

I changed my evaporator on a 92° day. After charging it I was getting 56° air coming out of the vents. Even with high humidity mine cools my cabin down with no problem. Gets to low speed in auto all the time. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 442 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...