Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Changed out the positive cable and now she starts better than new.

Thanks a ton!

Check's in the mail.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Update: I got the service stabilitrack error randomly on startup a few months after Dealer replaced negative cable and bumper to bumper warranty ended. 

 

Occasional codes of B127E, B127B, B1325, U0121, C0800, U0073

Replaced short positive cable from battery to junction box. All connections were tight. Cleaned ground on outside frame rail under drivers seat.

It's been 2 months and no random codes or stabilitrack. Next thing will be to replace battery if codes come back.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well I'm out of ideas.

I still get a service stabilitrack occasionally, along with B127E especially if I turn truck off and then restart after a few minutes (like when in a long line at drive thru).

I also get a random service safety restraint system, airbag light, along with U0140 Lost communication with Body control module only if i leave a door open when truck warming up for several minutes. Shut truck of and restart, no message and airbag light goes off, all seems normal after that. 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I had my battery (original) replaced last August. My vehicle is 17' and I'm at 27K mileage. Recently I've received 2 OnStar notifications that I had a Low-State of Charge on my new battery which I found interesting because I keep the car on a trickle charge if the car sits for an extended period of time. Called my dealer who installed the battery and they tested the charging system and are now telling me that the battery cables have high-resistance and need to be replaced.

Posted
5 minutes ago, bsprtsgrp said:

I had my battery (original) replaced last August. My vehicle is 17' and I'm at 27K mileage. Recently I've received 2 OnStar notifications that I had a Low-State of Charge on my new battery which I found interesting because I keep the car on a trickle charge if the car sits for an extended period of time. Called my dealer who installed the battery and they tested the charging system and are now telling me that the battery cables have high-resistance and need to be replaced.

Could be true but it sounds like a bogus claim, maybe they're just regurgitating what some TSB says.  To actually test the resistance of the battery cables they would have to disconnect them all from anything they are attached to, and this includes all of the grounds and main power connections as well.  Are they really doing this?  And their suggestion is to replace every single battery cable?  What are the resistance ratings they are attributing?

PS, have you checked your passenger front frame grounding location behind the wheel well/wheel liner?

Posted
26 minutes ago, bsprtsgrp said:

I had my battery (original) replaced last August. My vehicle is 17' and I'm at 27K mileage. Recently I've received 2 OnStar notifications that I had a Low-State of Charge on my new battery which I found interesting because I keep the car on a trickle charge if the car sits for an extended period of time. Called my dealer who installed the battery and they tested the charging system and are now telling me that the battery cables have high-resistance and need to be replaced.

Our K2XX trucks are notorious for "bad grounds" due to corrosion at the connecting points to the body. Watch this video I'll post below. He shows a very good solution for this. I did  add (2) additional grounds a he shows just as a precaution on my '17. Original battery is 5 years old so waiting for it to go bad now & will replace it with a high CCA/Ah AGM battery. Be sure ALL yoyr body grounds are cleaned & add some dielectric grease to help stop corrosion at those points.

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, BlaineBug said:

Could be true but it sounds like a bogus claim, maybe they're just regurgitating what some TSB says.  To actually test the resistance of the battery cables they would have to disconnect them all from anything they are attached to, and this includes all of the grounds and main power connections as well.  Are they really doing this?  And their suggestion is to replace every single battery cable?  What are the resistance ratings they are attributing?

PS, have you checked your passenger front frame grounding location behind the wheel well/wheel liner?

The Service Manager is a friend of mine and he told me this is a known issue. Tech disconnected and tested the cables. I'll ask about the wheel well ground

Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, bsprtsgrp said:

The Service Manager is a friend of mine and he told me this is a known issue. Tech disconnected and tested the cables. I'll ask about the wheel well ground

 

They replaced the Positive main harness (84528825), the short Positive (84494554), and the main Negative harness (84634109).

Edited by bsprtsgrp
  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
Posted

@bsprtsgrp:  i know it's been a couple years since your last post, but I'm super curious if this resolved the issue??  

 

to all: 

2017 GMC Sierra 2500 WT and having sluggish starter speed. 

Battery tests as good, Alternator tests as charging. (tested with my load tester and also at two auto centers)

Super clean engine bay overall (i have not traced everything to the terminal points yet).   

 

I put the battery on a smart charger overnight and bring it to 100% and it spins the starter and starts fast, as it should. 

Two days later, the battery is down to 60% and spins slower but always starts. (has never dropped below 60%)

I've done this multiple times. 

While at idle and no accessories on it is showing 12.3 volts at the terminals and also at the alternator. 

With AC and Headlights on, it will show 13.6 volts at battery and at alternator.

 

Any perspective helps but looks like maybe I should run down these grounding points as a start? 

 

Thanks guys.   

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, someguy1313 said:

@bsprtsgrp:  i know it's been a couple years since your last post, but I'm super curious if this resolved the issue??  

 

to all: 

2017 GMC Sierra 2500 WT and having sluggish starter speed. 

Battery tests as good, Alternator tests as charging. (tested with my load tester and also at two auto centers)

Super clean engine bay overall (i have not traced everything to the terminal points yet).   

 

I put the battery on a smart charger overnight and bring it to 100% and it spins the starter and starts fast, as it should. 

Two days later, the battery is down to 60% and spins slower but always starts. (has never dropped below 60%)

I've done this multiple times. 

While at idle and no accessories on it is showing 12.3 volts at the terminals and also at the alternator. 

With AC and Headlights on, it will show 13.6 volts at battery and at alternator.

 

Any perspective helps but looks like maybe I should run down these grounding points as a start? 

 

Thanks guys.   

 

 

Replace the negative battery cable. Mine had high resistance which was a common problem. That took care of 90% of my random “service stabilitrack” and other odd messages on startup. I’ve always had good voltage though. 

  • Like 3
Posted
14 minutes ago, 2018GMC said:

Replace the negative battery cable. Mine had high resistance which was a common problem. That took care of 90% of my random “service stabilitrack” and other odd messages on startup. I’ve always had good voltage though. 

I am always curious as to how high resistance was measured.  Was it measured with the cable installed, or was resistance measured with the grounding cable completely removed and disconnected from the vehicle?  And how many cables did you replace?  Including any grounding straps?

Posted
9 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

I am always curious as to how high resistance was measured.  Was it measured with the cable installed, or was resistance measured with the grounding cable completely removed and disconnected from the vehicle?  And how many cables did you replace?  Including any grounding straps?


Search for voltage drop test on YouTube. My cable was replaced while under warranty. Cable looked fine but tested bad. I also checked all my grounds, cleaned them and no difference. 
 

My voltage will drop on long highway trips the eventually goes back to 14, but this is normal operation as the alternator is computer controlled. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

A simple check for you to do. Look at the Power distribution block on top of the battery & see if any of the "nuts" are loose over the 6 or so connections. I've seen this come up in the past where a loose nut caused a similar issue.

 

 

Edited by rav3
  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...