Jump to content

Whats needed to get upfitter switches installed? What parts?

Offroadman00
 Share

Recommended Posts

Offroadman00 Enthusiast

Offroadman00

Posted
Posted

Hello All,

 

I am looking to get upfitter switches installed in order to hopefully get pillar lights in the near future once I have some extra $$$, and maybe an LED bar as well and the speedturtle EFM 3.0.

Obviously, all these would need to be hooked up upfitter switches, but i dont have those. So, my question is, what is required to get the upfitter switches? What are the parts that I will need (and their part numbers please)?, how hard/easy is it to take the side dash apart where the switches will be installed? 

 

Hope someone can shed some light on this.

BlancoSilverado Enthusiast

BlancoSilverado

Posted
Posted (edited)

I did the switches roughly a month ago. Not to hard to do but took a few hours to install. you have to remove a decent amount of the dash to install properly. 

There is another topic on the forum that list all the part number i will edit with the URL. 

 

This is a really good spot on how to install them.

 

@ Transient  said this on page 7

"Looks like it's 11589015. That was the only thing my dealer had in stock. They said it was a common part that is used on all of GM's vehicles in various locations. They are the same as the screws holding your knee bolster to the dash, etc. You could really do the project without them. Just take screws from another place, such as the bottom of the knee bolster so you can mount the fuse box. When the new fasteners come in just install them where you took the other 2 fasteners from. 1527e85f0992000146f137424e1bbc12.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk"

Edited by BlancoSilverado
** added more info**
BlancoSilverado Enthusiast

BlancoSilverado

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

Yes,  as per BlancoSilverado, a decent amount of the dash has to come out.  

5d28cf88a04fd_2019-07-1213_46_31.jpg.78b5113ad15bccf4bf83ab5ca6cbffa9.jpg

Lol, that's funny. FYI for someone that doesn't actually know,  not this much.  If i remember correctly, someone needed a heater core replaced. 

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, BlancoSilverado said:

Lol, that's funny. FYI for someone that doesn't actually know,  not this much.  If i remember correctly, someone needed a heater core replaced. 

Lol that's my April fools joke.  Yes, a member needed a heater core changed in his 2019.  Not pretty...  Offroadman, the upfitter kit comes with everything needed.  Here's where the cable runs through the firewall.

upfitter 1.jpg

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
Just now, HapaTrailBoss said:

Post install, any BCM programming required from the dealer?

No, good to go.

  • Like 1
Offroadman00 Enthusiast

Offroadman00

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for everyones help. Placed an order for a kit but was cancelled so i guess i am SOL at this point lol

 

does anyone know if the AT4 has a BLACK or BROWNish dash and bolster? I only ask because it looks black but at some angles it looks a little brownish too, so to make sure my eyes are not playing tricks on me, just want to try to source the correct color.

 

please let me know

Descartian Enthusiast

Descartian

Posted
Posted
On 4/1/2021 at 11:31 AM, Offroadman00 said:

as well and the speedturtle EFM 3.0..

Great, I didn’t know this existed but now I need it. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
Thanks for everyones help. Placed an order for a kit but was cancelled so i guess i am SOL at this point lol
 
does anyone know if the AT4 has a BLACK or BROWNish dash and bolster? I only ask because it looks black but at some angles it looks a little brownish too, so to make sure my eyes are not playing tricks on me, just want to try to source the correct color.
 
please let me know
What color are your seats?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
I do want to asked which switches are 20 and 30 amp? Also which wire colors go to with switch?
I think you meant 25 and and 20 amp. Iirc, switches 1, 4, and 5 are 25 amp. Switches 2 and 3 are 20 amp. I forget the wire colors at the moment. If you're really pressed for an answer I can find some time to look at the wiring diagrams and tell you which wires are which switches.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...