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Hey y’all, this is my second post on this forum. I just picked up a 2000 Chevy. 5.3 4l60e (I know shocking) and the guy claimed to have put a rebuilt trans in the truck, well then he claimed it was the second one he put in, in just a couple months. My guess is bad mechanic. Anyways. The trans shifts fine when it’s cold. All gears work perfect (which is when I test drove it) well when the truck warms up (roughly 150-190 when it starts) the trans slips in all gears, UNLESS it’s between 2500-3700 rpm. It grabs good then. I noticed it because I’ll start going from a red light, it’ll slip a bit and I’ll have to put more gas into it, and then it hits about 2500 rpm and it’ll grab and take off then when it hits about 3700 rpm it’ll start slipping again. It does this in every gear. At first I was thinking the trans pump thinking it wasn’t getting enough lubrication to all the parts. But then I thought it was low on fluid, well it’s fine on fluid. Then I thought maybe it was the converter because it’s the same one from the first rebuilt trans (supposedly). I’ll drop it off at a shop in a few days. But I’m sure I’m looking at a rebuild? I’m wanting to swap in a 6.0 over the summer, so I’m guessing I should go ahead and have a built one dropped in? Shift kit with vette servos? That’s what I keep hearing to do. Or should I just deal with it for now and wait for it to blow completely and do the whole engine and trans swap at the same time? Sadly I’ll have to pay someone to do it all for me cause I don’t have the tools or space to do it. But this 5.3 is also having “worn out” issues with oil pressure, as it’s the original with 262k on it (with a gasket rebuild on it supposedly). Thanks for the input in advance!!

Posted

A 5.3 is an awesome, long lasting motor, if taken care of.  If you plan on doing a 6.0 swap, you might as well just have the tranny rebuilt and be done with it.  It sounds like you bought someone else's headaches in this truck, but at least you will know now what you are putting in.

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    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
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