Jump to content

4L60E lost 3rd and 4th+ delayed shifts into second

chaaassmm
 Share

Recommended Posts

chaaassmm New Member

chaaassmm

Posted
Posted

hey so the other day i was heading to mu aunts when all of a sudden i couldn't go past second. stopped at her place since i was just down the road when it happened. checked fluids and it was ok. topped it up+ added stop slip. now when i drive first gear refuses to shift before 3k then has a super slow yet hard shift. and when i am driving unless I'm doing the speed limit collated with the rpm. nothing will happen/ the rpms with drop and the truck coasts like it's in neutral. 

 

i swapped the tranny fuse (fuse #4) to see if that would do anything and it didn't. 

 

would it be the 3rd/4th clutch packs? or more of a torque converter?

 

from what i have read online .

 

the truck doesn't throw any check lights. not sure about codes as i don't have a code reader.

 

also i cannot use the column shifter. as when i try to manually shift any of the gears it just revs and acts like neutral. 

 

 

 

dna9656 Enthusiast

dna9656

Posted
Posted

The 4L60E has somecweek parts, i got mine rebuilt to 4L70E specs for add'l $$$, worth every Nicole. More clutches, other stuff. Only use AC Delco Dex 6 in the tranny and Xfer case.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

Trans codes may not light the CEL, take it to the parts store and get it scanned, post the codes AND their definitions here and I'm sure someone will respond

mjm-1957 Enthusiast

mjm-1957

Posted
Posted

3-4 clutch pack is smoked. Common problem on the 4l60e. Trans will have to come out and be overhauled. They are a weak unit to begin with.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

B.S. My 4L60E in my 93 Silverado went over 200k miles and I towed with it. Fluid service very 30k miles. I put a drain plug in the trans pan, drain and fill. I used Valvoline trans max.  

  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, mjm-1957 said:

3-4 clutch pack is smoked. Common problem on the 4l60e. Trans will have to come out and be overhauled. They are a weak unit to begin with.

 

Guys that break these units are running them boosted, on NOS, overloaded, overheated or not maintaining them. :banghead:

 

And yes, the 3/4 clutch drum is 'usually' the first thing to go. But does not operating within design and failing to maintain make the unit weak? Or the operator.....:idiot:

 

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

B.S. My 4L60E in my 93 Silverado went over 200k miles and I towed with it. Fluid service very 30k miles. I put a drain plug in the trans pan, drain and fill. I used Valvoline trans max.  

 

Yea, this is a well maintained unit that was used 'as designed'. Tip O' the Hat sir. 😉 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...