Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I read a lot of posts on tranny problems on the Silverado 6 speeds. I haven't had any problems as of yet 112k and counting, but was wondering should I change the torque converter because a lot of people say to do it. If the answer to this question is yes. What replacement should be used. 

Posted

If it ain't broke, leave it.

Did you do fluid changes?

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes I have had tranny serviced at the dealer. No issues at all with the truck. Had all maintenance done at dealer at recommended intervals.

Posted

Decreasing interval lengths may be helpful after 100K. IMHO idunno if it helps, but I have had my trans replaced, unexpectedly.

Posted

If your truck has the 4.3, just give it the required severe schedule services and it will last a long long time. Forget the rest of this post. If however this truck has the V8 continue on. 

 

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/845-6l80-6l90-transmission-tech-advisory-consider-an-updated-converter-in-your-next-rebuild

 

I post this each time this question is asked and it is asked allot. Read it in it's entirety and really think about the "how and why" these failures happen. It's almost like asking if it's a good idea to continue bending a coat hanger as it hasn't broken yet, right? Then asking if you should replace it with the same type hanger! 

 

Yes, it is true that those who service it regularly and treat it kindly get longer service life from their units...most...of the time.

 

 

 

 

This is just information you can use to make a decision with. I'm not telling you what or how. 

Posted

Replace it. My trans looked great at 103 when I dropped the pan to do the filter. TQ converter went and wiped that trans at 106k. 5000 dollar repair at a dealer. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 5/25/2021 at 12:18 PM, DeePa said:

Replace it. My trans looked great at 103 when I dropped the pan to do the filter. TQ converter went and wiped that trans at 106k. 5000 dollar repair at a dealer. 

So I have 62k on mine and it was slipping a little. Just had the pan dropped and filter replaced.

 

shifts firmed up a lot, feels like a new trans.

 

Wondering if you guys that had a fluid done and then it went, noticed something similar

Posted
1 hour ago, truckguy82 said:

So I have 62k on mine and it was slipping a little. Just had the pan dropped and filter replaced.

 

shifts firmed up a lot, feels like a new trans.

 

Wondering if you guys that had a fluid done and then it went, noticed something similar

Better shifts after fluid is normal for the 8-speed (can't speak on others). If the TC chuggle comes back, that's also normal after a few thousand miles, but varies on how soon. For me, got on it one day entering the highway, and didn't shift; slight hesitation then dropped to low gear/high rpms, all at 65 mph. Beginning of the end.

Posted (edited)

I have a remote filter on mine , just changed it after 3000mi and was getting brass glitter flakes, I'm at 50,000 miles, all stock and t-stat removed. I am concerned since i only drive it on weekends and never tow more than twice a year.  gonna pull the pan on it soon take a better look. I have disabled the Lockup in 1-4th gears, so should be very little wear on the tcc, i think i'm having bushing issues instead

 

there is a relearn function on these transmissions which corrects for leaky pistons and slipping,  but only the dealer can do the relearn proceedure..

Edited by pokismoki
Posted
On 6/1/2021 at 11:08 AM, KONGon22s said:

Better shifts after fluid is normal for the 8-speed (can't speak on others). If the TC chuggle comes back, that's also normal after a few thousand miles, but varies on how soon. For me, got on it one day entering the highway, and didn't shift; slight hesitation then dropped to low gear/high rpms, all at 65 mph. Beginning of the end.

i used to get the chuggle on the 6 speed when i was moding the slip parameters. when i set the v4 mode , in TCC lock I zeroed out the slip and it would chuggle and viberate a lot, , then i went back to the 10-20 rpm slip in lock up and the vibes went away.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So question, if your trans is starting to do the bucking/slipping and fluid is burnt, is the trans salvageable or is it toast at that point? My suburban just started and was gonna take it in. Shop has been in business since 1971 so they know they’re stuff but curious if there’s any hope of not replacing the whole thing. 

Posted

Got my answer. Was told they’d just replace everything out of precaution as they don’t know what the trans May or may not have digested so far. It sounds like it could be salvageable but not worth the fuss when throwing in a reman. $4-5k repair…. Ouch!

Posted

the high temps  in the converter kills the o-ring seal that keeps the lock up clutch pressurized.  this will exhibit a lock unlock condition, probably never lock up after the o-ring has shrunk and cant hold pressure

Posted
1 hour ago, pokismoki said:

the high temps  in the converter kills the o-ring seal that keeps the lock up clutch pressurized.  this will exhibit a lock unlock condition, probably never lock up after the o-ring has shrunk and cant hold pressure

Good to know

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Mine worked fine until I got an update also. After that sometimes it would not connect and Id have to turn CarPlay off and then back on for it to try to connect again. I think I have had two additional updates since this started and it has gotten better but still not perfect.
    • It’s probably water in the doors. Mine had tape over the drain holes! Poked them open and that took care of it. Now I’m waiting for the rust to come through!🤬
    • Hi all,   I just bought a 2021 suburban RST with 88,000 miles on it and everything has been good but I’ve been noticing within the last month or so that there are small electrical things going on and I know what the AGM batteries and all the electric electrical in these big trucks you need to have a constant flow with good voltage   That being said, I bought a new battery thinking that that might have something to do with it but today I went to get in and start it and it said no key found when I had the key right in my pocket   It also proceeded to flash the lights inside and outside for over 30 minutes as I went to disconnect the battery as soon as I touch the negative terminal, I heard the relay reset and everything come back up. I got in the truck and started it no problem.   Anyone else have this happen to them? I’m starting to think it’s the KARR system that the dealer installed short circuit stuff.
    • I don't drive this truck on a regular basis since I have a new company truck with no out of pocket fuel or maintenance cost. Yesterday I got it out to run some errands and got the title message on my DCI. A quick Google search suggested to first clean the Map Sensor. I pulled it out and it was sooty so cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Issue not resolved. My OBDII is a couple years old so didn't see any codes. Today I took it to a friend at AutoZone to get him to check it with his reader. It had the following codes: P20C3 P02BB P221F Stating the most likely solution is to replace diesel emission fluid (DEF) tank assembly.   So, I guess a trip to the dealer is necessary. I read where there was a backorder on these tank assemblies several years ago so hope that has been resolved.
    • Are you using a weight distribution hitch system with your trailer as that alone can change the actual tire pressure requirements needed. It would prove interesting to see what the actual individual axle weights are on your truck when you are hooked up to the trailer. In fact when your hooked to the trailer, typically if anything unless it has a large capacity weight distribution system that is over cranked, often the weight on the front axle will be less when hooked up vs driving empty and certainly if one doesn't have a weight distribution hitch. Really the only times one may get up there with weight on the steer axle is if there was a snow plow mounted on the front or a motorcycle on a rack or with a very large jockey tank full of fuel at the front of the box that transfers a bit of its weight to the front axle.    And of course your tires carry more weight for a given tire pressure due to their size vs a stock sized tire so there is that to take into the equation as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...