Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

so im sure youve seen those retro silverados around online. I got a set of the steel wheels already sandblasted and powder coated. They of course are 17" steel rims. I have the usual aluminum 18" rims with 265/65R18 goodyear  tires on my truck now. I am planning to get BF KO2's for the 17" steel rims in 265/70R17 which is virtually the same diameter and circumference. One less revolution per mile so meh.

I do drive alot of highway miles and curious how much of a MPG hit the KO2's will cause. I can pretty easily get 22-24 mpg highway now. 

 

Anyone got any real world figures? Even just staying factory size on the same rims not necessarily doing my exact swap.

Posted

If the rolling weight is the same or very similar, probably not much change at all.

 

Just don't buy load range E tires as those are much heavier.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

If the rolling weight is the same or very similar, probably not much change at all.

 

Just don't buy load range E tires as those are much heavier.

I Bought the load range E K02 35X12.5X18s for hauling and towing. New stock black aluminum wheels.
If I was worried about gas mileage, I wouldn't have changed a thing about the stock form and tires.
I just wanted a lift and a better looking truck, IMO.
Still, if one is worried about gas mileage, keep it stock.
I never understand why people wanting to mod their truck are concerned about gas mileage.
It'll be what it will be, I guess.
Currently, I'm at 10 MPG around town, I have yet to take it on a highway drive for any extended length of time but I'll be doing that next month - from Florida to Colorado - to help my Mom out after my Dad passed away. (flew out for the funeral and drove the BMW to the airport because the truck ain't gonna fit in the parking garage - Tampa is 6'8" for short term)
I'll update later.

Edited by MikeBMW
Posted (edited)
56 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

If the rolling weight is the same or very similar, probably not much change at all.

 

Just don't buy load range E tires as those are much heavier.

yea i tried finding the factory tires on tirerack but no dice. the BFko2's in load range C are about 46 lbs a tire. Closest i can find on tirerack are about 36-38 lbs for the factory goodyear wranglers.

 

looked at general grabber at/x and they are still 45 lbs each.

 

i did run the steel wheels with the factory load range E tires for a few months and it didnt affect mpg that much (but we were on winter gas too) - those are about the same 45 lbs each now that i think about it. kinda slipped more in the snow.

 

While im not super concerned about mpg it would be nice to know. Ive added the tow mirrors and did a 2" front level kit. neither of those affected mpg too much. I do plan to get an 18 ft open car hauler in the near future to tow a project truck around - trailer and project combined will be close to 6000#.

1-2 mpg drop wont be the end of the world but if its 5-10 like some people are saying elsewhere thats going to be a big deal....

 

Edited by Waffle34
Posted

I think its a reasonable question to see what the difference is in a real world comparison.

 

I currently have 32" Michelins that are rated at 43# each. I would like to go up to a 33 or 34" tire.  The weight difference on most tires I've looked at is about 15# each.  I do a lot of long highway runs and losing 1-2 vs 3-5 is a lot of difference. Adding 60# of rotating weight is significant. But, how significant?  1-2 I can live with but 4+ is not worth it to me. 

 

I added BFG AT on our Jeep and lost 2-3.  It went from 21-22 to 18-19. Same height but wider and much heavier that the stock passenger car tire that came on it.  Also, added wheels so there is extra weight there, too.  

 

Point is, asking about MPG loss with a tire change seems like a reasonable request.  

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Picture a ping-pong ball on a foot and a half length of 100# test fishing line and your spinning it over your head at say 10 rpm.

 

Now replace the ping-pong ball with a 10# Medicine Ball and imagine that same 10 rpm orbit.

 

Try is with a 50# boat anchor. 

 

Now do it with four weights at a time and that is the basic concept of wheel weight. Even up to speed it will take more effort to keep the heavier weights aloft and at that same 10 RPM. 

 

Basic flywheel math. Speed, mass and distance are all contributors and the higher that total 'flywheel' effect the more fuel it will use. 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Bear thanks for the reply but it doesnt answer the question of how much difference.

 

Current tires are Michelin Defender LTX 305/50/20 that list at 42#.

Im looking at BFG 33/12.5/20 that list at 56#.  

 

How much difference is expected?  

 

Does anyone have any figures?

Posted
1 hour ago, 2015 High Miler said:

Bear thanks for the reply but it doesnt answer the question of how much difference.

 

Current tires are Michelin Defender LTX 305/50/20 that list at 42#.

Im looking at BFG 33/12.5/20 that list at 56#.  

 

How much difference is expected?  

 

Does anyone have any figures?

Not me. 😉 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just brought home a 2020 GMC 1500 Denali.  She has 53K miles on her and I want to change out the fluids over the next few weeks.  I see the diff covers don't have drain plugs.  Any suggestions where I can pick up front and rear diff covers with drain plugs?   Thanks,   Bob
    • Well, the dealership got the compressor and installed it. Air at the vents seems nice and cold as it should be. The service manager said the repair has a two year warranty and unlimited mileage. Hopefully I don't have to use it. The dealership i went to was one where I bought my 2014 half ton silverado. In 10 years and 168k miles on the truck anything I needed done and two small recalls they were always very good to me. Not a huge dealer either. I think they treat people well because they want you to come back. I have dealt with a different dealer that was too big to care about an individual. Just my two cents.
    • Hi All, I operate my 2021 3500 SLT most of the time with the tailgate off and in a crate because I have a slide-in camper. However, at least once a year, I take the camper off and put the tailgate back on. Recently I installed the tailgate, but had a hard time getting the connector bail to swing to the fully latched position. The connector seems to fully seat, and everything works, but the bail doesn’t swing to fully latched position.  It swings almost there but stops and I am afraid to push it any harder.    Does anyone have any advice on cleaning or lubrication or anything else I should be doing?  i know how to properly operate the connector. During the time the tailgate and connector are off, i have a double plastic bag over the truck connector secured with rubber bands to keep it clean, but it still had some dust in it this time when I blew it out with compressed air. I didn’t want to spray it with anything other than air without doing some research. Thanks. 
    • There are a lot of spammer's that do that, quote something and add some commentary to make it seem legit, but modify the quoted text a bunch making sure when posted it's long enough to be "click to expand", and either immediately insert a spam link, or come back after some time and edit it to add the spam link.
    • Hello @jaszr2 Do you have a link for the item? I put a replacement bumper on my truck and consequently had to relocate the shutters. I studied on them a while, and figured if you left a couple key blades, you could get most of the airflow with probably no throwing codes.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...