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275 65 r18

M1ck3y

By M1ck3y
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M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted

So we all know these topics are beaten to death, but I wanted to see if there's anyone on here running this tire size on stock suspension. I put on 275 65 r18 falken wildpeak at3w which should fit without question. The 22" wheel option on the silverado works out to roughly this size. Falken says the at3w measures 32.1 x 10.9 on an 8" rim. My rim is 8.5", which shouldn't really affect it?

 

Rub's in reverse, even before full lock and I can't tell where its rubbing. Not seeing any indication on the wheel well or the tire and when I rotate the tire's in park it doesn't seem to hit anywhere. The only place it comes slightly close to is one of the bolts holding the mudflaps up. But I don't think the bolt is causing it, the location of it doesnt really align with how far I think the wheel is rotated...

 

 

 

 

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MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

I put on 275 65 r18 falken wildpeak at3w which should fit without question.

I agree, not sure why you're getting a rub somewhere.
That size tire isn't much different than what came stock on my truck.
 

Screenshot 2021-11-10 202058.jpeg

Edited by MikeBMW
I mispelled a word, sorry.
  • Like 1
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
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Posted

It look like for every half inch increase in rim width the tire width will increase 2/10", which puts it at 11.1". Not enough to worry about though.

 

I didn't want to level it, but it looks like I'll have to see if I can find a 1/2" spacer or something.

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M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

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Posted

Turns out it's the backspacing. 22" wheel option has about an extra 1/4 inch.

 

Oem 20" wheels do even better upsizing tires with even greater back spacing.

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M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Tires hit the upper control arms and a bolt on the mud flap. I can probably swap the bolt out for something with a lower profile. It's just mounted to the cloth wheel well anyways.

 

I hoping someone that is knowledgeable in wheel spacers and leveling kits can help me out. I don't know exactly what I need or what I should be looking for so the tire clears. I've looked into wheel spacers that are 1/2, 7/8, 1 1/2. Obviously backspacing increases but I don't know if that will just lead to clearance issues somewhere else.

 

I've also considered trying to find a small leveling kit, for ex. Install the lower shock spacer from a kit and leave the top out (can you do this?) But I don't know if a leveling kit small or full height would solve my clearance issues because of the back spacing.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. I went into this thinking I'd just put a slightly larger tire on..

Edited by M1ck3y
  • Like 1
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

Tires hit the upper control arms and a bolt on the mud flap. I can probably swap the bolt out for something with a lower profile. It's just mounted to the cloth wheel well anyways.

A spacer may keep you from rubbing the UCA but it will, also, cause more rub on your fenders without a level or a lift.
Think about drawing a straight line as your tire turns, as you push it out, it will contact more of your fender since you pushed it in that direction and is no longer tucked within the wheel well.
Before I installed the 35s, I measured on the 33s and determined, with the same wheel (Factory 18x8.5 Wheel Offset = +24 mm - Back Space = 5.70" Inches) I needed to trim a bit on the inside liner at the rear.
Your stock 20s are Factory 20x9.0 Wheel Offset = +27 mm - Back Space = 6.06" Inches.
The back space is your issue. If you already are getting an issue with rubbing on the fender a spacer will make it worse.

A level might cause worse rubbing on the control arm unless you put in a spacer, and the level might help with fender rubbing issues caused by the spacer.
A 1/4" spacer, max, with a 2" level and you should be good.
Fun stuff, eh? :D
EDIT: there are many bottom spacers tor the struts for a 2" level - I started with an RC lower spacer for a 2" level and easily fit 33x12.5x18s.

https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1307.html

Edited by MikeBMW
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M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
  • Author
Posted
18 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

A spacer may keep you from rubbing the UCA but it will, also, cause more rub on your fenders without a level or a lift.
Think about drawing a straight line as your tire turns, as you push it out, it will contact more of your fender since you pushed it in that direction and is no longer tucked within the wheel well.
Before I installed the 35s, I measured on the 33s and determined, with the same wheel (Factory 18x8.5 Wheel Offset = +24 mm - Back Space = 5.70" Inches) I needed to trim a bit on the inside liner at the rear.
Your stock 20s are Factory 20x9.0 Wheel Offset = +27 mm - Back Space = 6.06" Inches.
The back space is your issue. If you already are getting an issue with rubbing on the fender a spacer will make it worse.

A level might cause worse rubbing on the control arm unless you put in a spacer, and the level might help with fender rubbing issues caused by the spacer.
A 1/4" spacer, max, with a 2" level and you should be good.
Fun stuff, eh? :D
EDIT: there are many bottom spacers tor the struts for a 2" level - I started with an RC lower spacer for a 2" level and easily fit 33x12.5x18s.

https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1307.html

 

Thanks Mike!

 

Maybe I'll see if I can get away with doing a 1" or 1.5" spacer and see if that gives me enough clearance. I'm just concerned if I go full height the tires are going to look to small.

 

If that doesn't work out I'm thinking I'll end up looking at buying new wheels. I think wheel with around 0 offset with 5" backspacing should give me enough room?  

  • Like 1
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, M1ck3y said:

Maybe I'll see if I can get away with doing a 1" or 1.5" spacer and see if that gives me enough clearance. I'm just concerned if I go full height the tires are going to look to small.

A 1" or 1.5" spacer is not a good choice, IMO - I hate spacers (maybe a 1/4" or 1/2" is OK), best to have the offset in the wheel itself.
 

1 hour ago, M1ck3y said:

If that doesn't work out I'm thinking I'll end up looking at buying new wheels. I think wheel with around 0 offset with 5" backspacing should give me enough room?

Now you're talking. Still, a 2" level, at minimum, will be required.

Edited by MikeBMW
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M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

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Posted
28 minutes ago, MikeBMW said:

A 1" or 1.5" spacer is not a good choice, IMO - I hate spacers (maybe a 1/4" or 1/2" is OK), best to have the offset in the wheel itself.
 

Now you're talking. Still, a 2" level, at minimum, will be required.

 

I should have said 1.5" strut spacer. I see procomp has a kit that says it clears 32's. Waiting to hear back if they think it's right for my application.

 

I looked hard at going with a wheel spacer. But in the end I decided that at times I drive way too aggressive to be putting on part that... really shouldn't be there.

 

  • Like 2
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

I should have said 1.5" strut spacer. I see procomp has a kit that says it clears 32's. Waiting to hear back if they think it's right for my application.

Ah, gotcha! I'd still recommend a 2" level, minimum.
If you go above that, you'll also need to get aftermarket UCAs.
 

 

7 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

I looked hard at going with a wheel spacer. But in the end I decided that at times I drive way too aggressive to be putting on part that... really shouldn't be there.

I agree! :D

  • Like 2
Alan Bowman Enthusiast

Alan Bowman

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

 

I should have said 1.5" strut spacer. I see procomp has a kit that says it clears 32's. Waiting to hear back if they think it's right for my application.

 

I looked hard at going with a wheel spacer. But in the end I decided that at times I drive way too aggressive to be putting on part that... really shouldn't be there.

 

I have 2 inch spacers front. Waiting it’s in the mail for a 3 inch block lift rear. I have the new 3 inch shocks also. Plus I have a 1.5 inch zone body lift sitting in the truck. Gunna pay for install. But I also have new rims and tires with new tpms waiting to go on. 305 70 17 -38 mm offset

92DC0B0B-F2CB-43D0-A70A-B6A5226C189A.jpeg

  • Like 2
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Alan Bowman said:

I have 2 inch spacers front.

You do mean "strut spacers," correct?
And not wheel spacers?
To me, spacers are a wheel item, strut spacers (or a level) are a strut item.

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Like 1
Alan Bowman Enthusiast

Alan Bowman

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, MikeBMW said:

You do mean "strut spacers," correct?
And not wheel spacers?
To me, spacers are a wheel item, strut spacers (or a level) are a strut item.

Yes sir a level. Strut level. I got rim offset don’t believe in wheel spacers. 

  • Like 1
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
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Posted

Did you guys find wheels that matched the oe hub bore size, or are you running hub centric rings? Little confused about this because everything I've read says you want the hub/bore to transfer load to the wheel. But it looks like the majority of aftermarket wheels don't match, and its just a friction fit? Does that make them lug centric?  

 

I went with Fuel Tech D670. Its a 18x9 +1 offset 5.04" Backspacing. I'm hoping that since its only a 32" tire it should clear 🤞

 

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