Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I installed an LLJ Customs loopback harness into an Audio Control D-6.1200 amp. For some reason my blinkers are silent now. Anyone have any ideas? LLJ never responds to messages, emails or calls so not sure where to go from here.

Posted

Do you still have “chimes” and alerts?

 

These along with turn signals are played through dash speakers

 

You may want to check to see if the loop harness utilizes the dash speakers as a source of input. Do you have the Bose setup?

 

 

 

Posted

No chimes and alerts. Non Bose with black and grey connectors.

 

I mounted the amp under the back seat and made my own bracket. I will attach a pic.

 

Not using front high. Ran separate cables for dash speakers running directly to amp. front and rear door are using the LLJ Customs loopback harness. 

 

Ran this exact setup on my 2019 Silverado with black and grey connectors on my 2019 Silverado before trading it in and I didn't have this issue. Same harness, amp, speakers. Scratching my head on it.

IMG_4567.HEIC

Posted (edited)

My truck has the aqua tan connectors and I am not sure if LLJ uses the same wire colors going to the amp or not. I have retained my chimes and such. For my harness the input wire colors that I have feeding input ch1/2 are white and grey. I then have output ch1/2 running via separate wires to the dash. In the DSP settings I have output ch1/2 being sent input signal from input ch1/2.  Is your signal path the same as mine?

Edited by remanaz
Posted

Correct, same as mine. Input channels on the loopback harness are white and grey for channels 1 and 2 on both incoming and return side. Green and purple are channels 3 and 4. 

Posted (edited)

I may have missed this but is the new truck also a 2019 and is the radio option the same? If yes, this is truly odd. Perhaps one of the little green wires at the connector end has come loose inside the connector. 

 

Are you running tweeters specifically in the dash and what is your x-over setting for the dash speakers? I am wondering if perhaps you have crossed out the chimes. It's a long shot and is moot if you are using the same speakers and settings as your old truck. 

 

It would be nice if LLJ was better at responding. If you lived here in Phoenix I would say just go knock on their door. 

Edited by remanaz
Posted

Went from a 2019 Silverado with black and grey connectors to a 2021 Sierra with black and grey connectors. Because the connectors are the same I would assume the pinout is the same. 

 

Dash - Sundown Audio 2.75 speakers crossed over at 125hz to 20khz

Front Doors - Sundown Audio 6x9 coax crossed over at 45hz to 20khz

Rear Doors - Sundown Audio 6.5 coax crossed over at 65hz to 20khz

 

I have tried opening up the crossovers 20hz to 20khz and it made no difference. Also, once I get my subwoofers figured out I will have to revisit the current crossovers. On a side note, these sundown speakers are awesome.... Incase anyone else is reading this and is interested, I also purchased the Soundskinz custom cutout sound deadening and that works great as well.

Posted

One would hope that they would be the same. I know there were some various changes made between 2019 and 2021. I do not know if any of them is infotainment related though. I think there were some features controlled by the infotainment unit that are different that I recently read either on here or on the Trail Boss forum. 

 

The order form for the harness does ask for the Year Make and Model. I thought that would be just for verification purposes though. IIRC in 2020 when I ordered mine they still did not have a specific listing for the 2019-2021 models. I remember having to order it as a 2014-2018 model then tell them that it was a 2021. I just visited their site and they have done some remodeling. 

 

Anything in the 1000hz to 8000hz should definitely play the chimes. Also if you are using the ch1/2 input signal for both your dash and your front doors, as you should be, then both your dash and doors should be playing the chimes. That fact slipped my mind in yesterdays post. 

 

Ok so tuning related...Since you are running separate wires to the dash I would strongly suggest running your doors as dedicated midbasses. Treat the front stage as a component set using wide banders for the highs. This is if your are looking to use the DSP to it's full potential to get you a well defined center image. If not disregard the rest of this. Perhaps starting with xo's of 45-300 for the doors and 450-20k Try various xo frequencies to see what works best of course. But the goal here is to have specific speakers play specific parts of the frequency spectrum so there is no overlap between speaker locations. Going a tad higher on the HP for the dash speakers will allow for a little more output from them. 125hz is rock bottom for those and you need to be careful how much power you feed them down that low. 300 is slightly more than one octave higher than you have them currently. The 450 is another half octave but I suggested that more for a half octave separation between the speaker locations. This is due to both the doors and the dash working together to cover the area between 300 and 450  and hopefully without causing a large hump in the area. 

 

What subs are you going to be running? SD-4's by chance? I am running 2 of the SD-4 12's under my rear seat. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, remanaz said:

One would hope that they would be the same. I know there were some various changes made between 2019 and 2021. I do not know if any of them is infotainment related though. I think there were some features controlled by the infotainment unit that are different that I recently read either on here or on the Trail Boss forum. 

 

Ok it was related to XM. It seems that the 2019 LTs had to have the convenience package II to be equipped with XM. While 2021's come with it standard on most models. I know my Custom Trail boss has it. Did you have XM available on your 2019?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

LLJ Harness here on a 2021 AT4 Non-bose and have my dash corners fed with new speaker wire from my amp. No chimes or alerts here anymore, I personally don't mind but I am confident that those sounds were only wired to the dash corners so we have both by-passed them.

 

I'll actually check this when I make my upgrade to the GB60/GB15 and plug the old stock dash speaker back in and put my blinkers on and see.  I'll let you know in a couple of week.s

Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 3:55 PM, Buddy A said:

Where did you mount that amp?

Under front passenger seat works well and also out of sight. That's where I mounted mine.

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Did you ever find resolution to this issue?  I have a similar predicament; installed LLJ loopback harness with audio control amp ~8 months ago; everything worked great.  I just installed the WAMS radio upgrade and everything works, except now I have no turn signal/chimes sounds.  Everything else works.  I unplugged the loopback harness and reconnected factory plugs and I had turn signal sound again.  I also noticed that if I get in and just turn on the ACC and don't start the motor the hazards make sound, but as soon as I start the motor, silence.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 10/20/2022 at 7:23 PM, tarringt said:

Did you ever find resolution to this issue?  I have a similar predicament; installed LLJ loopback harness with audio control amp ~8 months ago; everything worked great.  I just installed the WAMS radio upgrade and everything works, except now I have no turn signal/chimes sounds.  Everything else works.  I unplugged the loopback harness and reconnected factory plugs and I had turn signal sound again.  I also noticed that if I get in and just turn on the ACC and don't start the motor the hazards make sound, but as soon as I start the motor, silence.

Hi Tim, we are trying to stay proactive and get back to everyone so let see if I can help you out. If you want to know where the chimes and signa chime end you can set up a Multimeter up to the white and white black on the harness's (signal Side) and turn the radio down and the turn signal you should see a spike in voltage (AC) when the signal pings.

 

If this is in the harness up to the processor or amp, it could be that it is tuned out by a low pass filter or may be disabled in the hmi. The loop harness is dumb it is simply a fancy tap that extends your connection point and saves you time and money. Hope this helps ! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...