Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

You can actually but I don't know how I just know it is possible, look it up on youtube I saw a video on it just yesterday

Posted

Here is the part number off the GM site. Contact a local dealer to see if they can get you one.

 

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-torque-converter-17804388?c=Zz1hdXRvbWF0aWMtdHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uJnM9YXV0b21hdGljLXRyYW5zbWlzc2lvbiZsPTUmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz1zaWx2ZXJhZG8tMjUwMC1oZCZ5PTIwMTQmdD1sdCZlPTYtMGwtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D

 

 

Otherwise you could contact a torque converter company and see if they can match you up with a converter that is just like the stock 6L90e. Summit racing, JEGS, Circle D converters may all have what you want.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes you can replace the junk 6L80e converter with a better stronger 6L90e converter. I did this yesterday 11/27/2021 on my 2017 Silverado 1500 2wd with 78k miles on it. It took a buddy and I about 6 hours to do it. I developed a shutter and bucking so I ordered the 6L90e converter, a gasket/seal kit and got the trans fluid. we dropped the transmission out, pulled the transmission apart because the 6L80e converter ****** it’s guts out into the trans, metal shavings everywhere so we just wanted to flush it and make sure everything was ok which thankfully it was. The 6L90e converter is a little bigger In physical size and it has 6 bolt holes but you will still only use 3 bolts to the flywheel unless you spend the money and extra time to replace the flywheel as well which isn’t needed unless you are adding lots of HP as well with other mods.

I only have about 150 miles with the new converter but it seems better and the shifts feel better then they ever have.

I’m in California my converter came from Reno Nevada I had it in 2 days and my local trans shop had the gasket/seal kit and fluid in stock. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I ordered it from my local Chevrolet Dealer. Part number 24045127

Posted (edited)

was that a new converter or a reman. also looking at canadian gm suppliers there is a core charge , did send back your old converter

Edited by silveradosid
Posted

I believe new, honesty not sure my buddy works at the dealer and he ordered it in for me. I did pay a $100 core charge and am unfortunately not able to get the money back for core because my core isnt the same as the one I purchased if that makes sense. Which I knew that when I ordered it.  But from my understanding that is normal anywhere you buy one from. 

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Hi the part number you provided will it work on Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015 6L80 transmission,?.

Another member provide this part number 

17804388 your's is this 24045127

Can you just verify which one would actually work.

 

Thank you in advance 

Posted

i think the oe 6l80 converter is fine , as long as you reprogram the tcc functions in the tcm.  GM meeting MPG  goals and emmissions ratings is almost a death sentence before you get 100K miles on a 6l80

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I had one in mine for a short time.  It didn't give me any performance gaines at all.  It's felt like a stock 6l80 converter and even when I tried to stall it up on the brake it didn't seem to stall any higher.  I don't have any logs to prove that it didn't simply because I don't 4x4 lunch my truck alot.

 

When my trans went out I just let them put in a similar stock stall converter that they had in stock and would warranty.  Mine went out last year and parts where hard to get and I need my truck back fast.

 

But yes it does work.  You just use three of the 6 holes to bolt it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 484 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...