Jump to content

Circle D convertor

6.2Midnight

By 6.2Midnight
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
Posted

For those who have swapped out their 8 speed convertor, what specific Circle D did you go with? I just need something stock, I have a 2017 and going on my 5th gm convertor. It will be out of warranty soon. I tried using the lemon law, long story short, they would not take the case.

 

Thanks for the help.

6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good idea,  no tuner near me. Plus this trans has to have the TCM removed and rewired to tune the trans.

6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is there another another company out there that can be trusted? I do not need a face convertor. Thanks.

pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted (edited)

3 piece billet converter

 

the money you got into that trans what's another $1500 to do it right?  call the guys at HPtuner. it's only money

Edited by pokismoki
6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've only spent $400.00 with my warranty. Still have 18k miles to go.

Edited by 6.2Midnight
M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted

So GM has paid to replace your converter 5 times? 

 

GM can be dumb, but I don't think they're that dumb. Something doesn't add up. They should have given you a new trans after the second failure.

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, 6.2Midnight said:

That's what I said as well.  They will not do anything for the trans, just the TC.

 

That's screwed up!

 

Best of luck, hope an aftermarket converter works out for you.

pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted (edited)

anychance there is a software update for you trans from GM?  they usually have updates but the dealers have no clue... try a different dealer.

 

I suggest using only the gear selection that keep it out of V4 mode. there is extra slip added to the converter clutch in v4 mode, so as to remove or reduce drive-line vibration, but this extra slipping to the converter usually smokes the clutch and pump with heavy use

 

did you remove the thermostat in the trans If it still has one?  do it!

 

stick with the stock converter its good enough, just find a tuner one of these days

Edited by pokismoki
6.2Midnight Enthusiast

6.2Midnight

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The truck is still under warranty, so I have not done any thing that would void the warranty.

 

Thanks for the help.

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

I'd bet you have pump or other related issues. Convertors don't just fail.

 

As a suggestion... The moment it is installed I'd run a tuner and see what the system looks like while idle and driving. Something isn't right and if you get a shop to figure out what the issue is Gm might just pay up🤷 Best of luck to ya. Please let us know how it goes. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 744 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...