Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,
I just received a used Chevy 5.3L Vortec engine (LM7) out of a 2003 Silverado. Everything on it is stock at the moment and I would like to build it so that it can produce more than the stock 300 HP and keep it naturally aspirated if possible. I was already considering changing the cam, intake , and throttle body but would like to know what others have done with these engines and what's recommended. Thank you.

Posted

If I'm doing a cam swap, I'm going to hit all the valvetrain with upgrades.

 

Intake and throttle body aren't going to be big power sources. However those are pretty easy to do - as part of a full bolt-on process, tune, headers, CAI, intake manifold and throttle body, exhaust, maybe some bigger injectors, colder t-stat for more aggressive tuning.

 

That should be a pretty potent engine without pulling heads.

Posted
3 hours ago, Bryan Spear said:

Hello,
I just received a used Chevy 5.3L Vortec engine (LM7) out of a 2003 Silverado. Everything on it is stock at the moment and I would like to build it so that it can produce more than the stock 300 HP and keep it naturally aspirated if possible. I was already considering changing the cam, intake , and throttle body but would like to know what others have done with these engines and what's recommended. Thank you.

 

As the old saying goes, how much do you got to spend and how fast do you want to go?  As ASilverBlazer said, there's a bunch of stuff mentioned that contributes little or nothing to performance.

Posted

Do a camshaft and headers with a tune. Add an intake if you want. I'd probably go with slightly larger injectors just to be safe.

 

Keep the stock throttle body and intake manifold. Should be an easy 35-40hp with cam and headers.

 

Stock thermostat is just fine, no reason to run a colder one.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/13/2022 at 10:10 PM, CamGTP said:

What's your budget?

 

Zero or was he too impatient to answer questions for a thoughtful answer?

Posted

I haven't checked prices in a long time but Speed Engineering headers are still rather cheap and the next step up are Texas Speed headers. Past that you are talking $1,000+ for some headers more than likely.

Posted
16 hours ago, CamGTP said:

I haven't checked prices in a long time but Speed Engineering headers are still rather cheap and the next step up are Texas Speed headers. Past that you are talking $1,000+ for some headers more than likely.

 

Any idea if those vendors will clear Novak engine mounts in a Jeep Wrangler TJ frame?  Thanks.

Posted

No idea. They are made for truck frames. Anything else is a complete toss up.

 

You'd have to contact someone who has done a swap before to see if it's possible.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I see some red flags.   - No mention in the Carfax if the oil pump belt was changed.  LM2s had a 150,000mi service interval, and its got 164,245mi on it.  So right out the gate it needs about $3000-3500 for that to be done before driving it another 150,000mi.  Belt is at the rear of the engine.     - If something happens to the transmission valve body, the special coverage is expired by mileage.  That will likely be an out of pocket expense, with zero or near zero GM participation if something happened even though its in by time.   - 2020 LM2s seem to need timing chains after 80,000mi at some point.  They fixed this end of 2020/starting 2021 model year engines.  They will usually set a P0016 I think?  There is another $8000-10,000 if it needs a chain.  The main chain is at the back, secondary at the front so the pump belt would be done at the same time if it needed chains.     - Long oil change intervals.  7,000-8,000mi on average, probably close to 0% or perhaps to or beyond 0% on the OLM.  Lots of them not at the dealer which makes me wonder how much of the oil ran through that truck was the proper Dexos D rated 0w20 oil and not just gas engine 0w20, which is not the same at all.     - Long fuel filter changes, again likely taking the fuel filter life to 0% or more.  First one went 28,603, second was done 43,094 miles later at 71,697, from there another 46,452mi to 118,149mi, and then the most recent one 37,026mi later at 155,175mi.  So counting its original fuel filter, its had only 4 fuel filters on it.  No bueno IMO.         Good news?    - It has had only two warranty trips to the dealer.  The first free service (end of December 2020 on the Carfax), and the transmission reprogram recall (end of August 2025 on the Carfax).     - Truck did a LOT of moving, so that might explain the lack of emissions related repairs like bad NOX sensors, bad exhaust temp sensors, bad glow plugs, etc.         The "emissions system checked" could just be how something was flagged for Carfax.  GM dealers have to do SAVI reports for warranty repair orders so they scan the truck.  So its possible that is there for that?  
    • Thank you, @Z45!   NOTE - No all repair shop/Dealers reports to Carfax   That is my main concern.  The CARFAX looks way too clean for a 6 year old anything with 164,245 miles.  Even something known for reliability (like many Toyotas) typically has a lot more replaced, like a Nav screen, interior trim, shock/strut, or brake pads.  And surely the last set of tires (installed at ~58k miles) would be bald unless those were all highway miles.   I'm tempted to pay a local dealer to look up the VIN, but am not sure if that will be worthwhile.  Last time I did this, it was 100% useless, and I felt scammed - they noted the bumper was replaced years ago and that's it.  A 5-year old could spot the accident damage, even though nothing was on the CARFAX.   After giving the dealer a call, the truck may have a hard shift, but they have to verify with their mechanic if that's even a concern.  And I've test driven about a dozen of these now, many near Chicago, and half the trucks shift hard/odd at all throttle positions.  The ones with aftermarket lifts/larger tires shift terrible, and 3 stock trucks shifted so violently I thought the transmission valve body was going out.   At this point I'm conflicted, as I need a vehicle, and am coming up short locally.  Northern trucks in this price range tend to have either multiple owners, a lot of mods (lifts/oversized tires without re-gearing), and are generally in rougher shape.   If this truck showed up in your neighborhood for $27k and you had to purchase it sight-unseen, with the possibility of needing a 10L80 rebuild, torque converter, or rear end - would you do it?  I'm convinced most of the 10L80 trucks I test drove are broken, they can't all shift so bad, with massive flares/slipping/lurching and mis-matched downshifts like a teen driver learning stick.
    • From the spy shots, the front end does look like it's borrowing some styling cues from the Canyon. I'm more interested in the powertrain news than the screens though. If the 3.0 diesel survives into the next generation, that alone will keep a lot of current owners interested.  
    • What is this tuner you mentioned that can shut the system off?
    • I had it tested at the hardware store, and it showed no chip. He went out to started the truck today and it wouldnt fire. He waited an hour then tried again, and it started 3 times. In a row. My 2000 cavalier did not have a chip key, but still had a security system.  🤷‍♀️
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...