Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2014 L83 with a 6L80 4x4. Instead of rebuilding the trans, I’m considering moving up to a 6L90 if it’s possible. Does anyone have info about this or know of anyone who has done it? 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

yes, its easy if your pre-2017 truck different tcus on these.  if you want the 6L90 get  one from a Camaro. 

but the better upgrade for all the laybor would be a 4L75e, easier to rebuld these, and less mass in the 4 speed. 

 

while everyone whos making big powa reccomends the heavy ass 8 speed, it shifts faster but draws more power because its just so f'n heavy

 

if your not making power just upgrade the stock 6L80 with updates and 6L90 parts, this would be less r&d work IMO

GM is running out of oil pumps for the 6L80/90 trannies, order a pump first to see if its available before attempting rebuild

Edited by pokismoki
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the advice pokismoki. I have no interest in the 8 speed. I like the 6L80/90. Never thought of the 4L75 and I’m not sure what that would involve to make sure I keep 4x4. I’m not really looking for the fastest truck, just a dead nuts reliable workhorse. Really great info about the oil pump, thanks for sharing. 
 

I’m running around 550 ft-lbs torque right now with plans to go higher. Spoke with Circle D Trans and TK Performance and a 6L80 rebuild is gonna be anywhere from $2500 - $4500. Then another grand for a converter.

 

I was thinking of just swapping my current tcm/valve assembly directly into the 6L90 to avoid any programming trouble. Update the tune for the 90 and fabricate the frame crossmember mounts. Trans output shaft would need to be custom ground for the transfer case along with a custom tail housing adapter. Last piece needed would be a slightly longer front driveshaft. I think that covers it but haven’t met anyone who completed it. 
 

Now that I wrote all that out, I’m in agreement with you that rebuilding the 6L80 seems like the better option. Similar cost with a known result. Now to find an oil pump…

Edited by 300 Blackout
Posted (edited)

after you acquire the pump, be sure you install the new regulator valve, as the old design causes premature wear in the bore, and causes line pressure loss to the clutches, this area could possibly be where all the metal particles are coming from on low milage trans

 

after its built get it tuned with hptuners, turn off the tcc for 1-4th gear

Edited by pokismoki
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Do any of you know if there's a major difference between the 6l90 in the diesel trucks vs the other 6l90s? My 6l80 is trash and Reman Transmission has an already remanufactured one for like 2500 bucks with free shipping which is less than what I could have it rebuilt for but they also have remanned 6l90s for only like 150$ more, https://reman-transmission.com/transmission-codes/?code=6L90. The only thing is I think they only have them for the trucks they came in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...