Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Because I want to take the one off my 02 Silverado 4.8 Ls and put it on my 2017 Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 that's y I'm curious

Posted

Not really.

 

The y-pipe will not bolt up at all.

 

Technically the only thing you could do is chop the cat off that pipe and the exhaust on the 2017 truck, then weld the cat back into place. But it's still possible that the 2002 cat converter does not do enough for the much newer emissions requirements on the 2017 truck. So the check engine light could come back on.

Posted

Is it molten or loose? Or do you have fault codes?

 

The cat should normally last until the car is gone or the converter is stolen 😀

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Check engine light blinks and when the tranny downshifts the exhaust vibrates really bad only when dropping into a lower gear it was giving me a code of engine misfire on 3 and 5 so I replaced all ignition coils on negative side all new spark plugs driver and passenger cleaned my throttle body and reset it but I haven't tried changing my 02 sensors just need some different opinions on what it might be causing my check engine to blink that's usually something serious

Posted
23 minutes ago, Victor Brown said:

Check engine light blinks and when the tranny downshifts the exhaust vibrates really bad only when dropping into a lower gear it was giving me a code of engine misfire on 3 and 5 so I replaced all ignition coils on negative side all new spark plugs driver and passenger cleaned my throttle body and reset it but I haven't tried changing my 02 sensors just need some different opinions on what it might be causing my check engine to blink that's usually something serious

 

 

What are the codes in the truck?  Not a description, but the code number.  So say its P0303.  

 

A cat y pipe would not be compatible from a 2002 to a 2017.  Different emissions requirements, different exhaust layout.  

Posted
13 hours ago, Victor Brown said:

Check engine light blinks and when the tranny downshifts the exhaust vibrates really bad only when dropping into a lower gear it was giving me a code of engine misfire on 3 and 5 so I replaced all ignition coils on negative side all new spark plugs driver and passenger cleaned my throttle body and reset it but I haven't tried changing my 02 sensors just need some different opinions on what it might be causing my check engine to blink that's usually something serious

 

That does not sound like a catalysator issue. I think you should start with a systematic fault analysis instead of just changing parts. Otherwise you probably end up wasting a lot of money.

 

As @newdude said, what are the fault codes?

Posted

I have no choice I had a full scan done and the only thing that came up was a engine misfire on cylinders 3 and 5 and I was told to change the ignition coils and wires so that's what I did but the engine light keeps coming on and blinking from my experience that indicates a bad cat maybe I should perform a smoke test to see if there is a vacume leak somewhere just hoping someone out there might of encountered something similar

 

 

 

Posted

A blinking Check Engine Light indicates only misfires. Nothing todo with the catalytic converter.

There are a lot of reasons for misfires. Bad plugs, bad ignition coils, low fuel pressure, bad injectors, broken valves, lifters, compression issues and so on.

I really think you should perform a step by step fault analysis.

Posted

I thought this was a place we bounce ideas off of each other y am I being questioned like I don't know what I'm talking about instead of telling me where you think I'm wrong which I'm not try helping me out it has everything to do with the cat for example what steps would you take if you had a deep scan of your vehicle done and you came up with one code so you think you have the problem pinpointed well after repairing all areas that have to do with that code your problem still exists what would you all do that's all I'm here for advice not who's wrong or who's right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 580 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...