Bilstein 5100 front install tips of videos?

romeactual · January 23, 2023

Hopefully getting rid of the leveling blocks/spacers as I ordered a set of the adjustable, 0 to 2.5" Bilstein 5100s.

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/shop/chevy-gmc/silverado-1500/bilstein-b8-5100-0-2-5-front-lift-shocks-for-2019-2020-chevrolet-silverado-1500-2wd-4wd/

Unable to find any videos of installation on the new body style trucks. Is installation about the same as previous gen?

Goal is to hopefully get a better ride while maintaining level. My 2019 is starting to feel rough. I have Toyo AT3 tires, not sure how much that also affects ride quality.

Any tips or tricks is appreciated. I have spring compressors and understand that is about the worst part of doing front struts. Plan on reusing everything, other than the new shock.

Amcguy1970 · January 23, 2023

You aren't going to ride better, it will ride worse at times (smaller bumps and broken pavement) though it will handle the big bumps better. People for some reason think these shocks are supposed to ride better, that isn't the case especially when you lift it as that pre-loads the spring so it is stiffer.

If your tires are LT E-rated they contribute to the rough ride, these light duty trucks don't need or were designed with those types of tires except in extreme situations (regular back country of roading or heavier towing often).

Install is pretty much the same, if there isn't a new gen video the prior gens will work almost to a T. Both have coil over shock set ups.

Tyler

romeactual · January 24, 2023

Thanks Tyler. From my understanding, the level spacers contribute to a harsher ride? I wasn't aware of that at 30k miles when installed, but now at almost 70k miles my wife complains the truck is rough. I really notice it lately too.

I mainly want to install the 5100s to refresh the stock struts and remove the spacers. Would have to guess it is going to ride slightly better with this setup, no? Its hard to gauge peoples expectations from reading on this stuff. When I installed the rear Bilstein's, I noticed no difference, whereas people on forums are saying its night and day difference, huge upgrade, etc. lol

asilverblazer · January 24, 2023

I respectfully disagree with Tyler about preloading the spring. It will move the bottom of the strut further away from the strut/spring mount. Just like adding the spacer you already have does. This rotates the lower control arm farther down and takes the spindle and hub with it creating the lift amount. No additional compression or load is placed on the spring.

There will be less amount of down travel or droop in the suspension because the upper control arm will closer to to its droop stop. Though not likely more than your current setup already does. This can have a negative impact on ride quality. However, I never experienced this.

The shocks will be valved more aggressively than a factory shock, even more so than a worn one too. The additional damping can be described as being more stiff as the shocks more aggressively slow (control) the suspensions movement.

Heavier rated tires and over-inflated tires increase the amount of compression the shock absorbers must control. This makes impacts over bumps more harsh.

There is no difference between using the Bilstein shocks that have the adjustment ring for mounting height vs. the factory shock and an additional spacer to ride quality. (Aside from the difference in valving.) Since you did not notice a difference in the ride quality of the taller strut with spacer when you installed them, the Bilstein strut installed with the ring in the 'lifted' position will be similar to what you were already familiar with.

The results you should expect after removing the factory struts with the spacer and replacing them with the Bilstein shock in the lifted position would be overall less motion in the trucks suspension. The initial impact of a road imperfection may be more noticeable, but any subsequent motions would be less. Generally, this is preferred by most.

Edited January 24, 2023 by asilverblazer

kmeleon · January 25, 2023

The install sucks. I did my 21 Elevation and it took me and a master mechanic to do it. Spring compressors while strut still in the truck, Big pry bars and ALOT of ass even after removing the ball joint nut to get enough room to get the strut assembly out. Once you do the first one the 2nd obviously goes better but expect about 4hrs start to finish. And take your time when setting up the new strut in the assembly. I forgot to put the lift clip on the strut on the 2nd one and ended up doing the passenger side again when I saw the clip on the floor after putting it all back together. No videos yet that I saw back in November when I did mine.

Good luck

kmeleon · January 25, 2023

Oh almost forgot, we used a bottle jack to push the bottom of the strut up to sneak it back into the A arm mount on the reinstall. We couldn't compress the springs enough to freely pass the a arm. It's a ******.

Grover67 · January 26, 2023

Wow didn't think it was that bad of a job when I did mine. I pulled the struts out and used a spring compressor I picked up from AutoZone lone a tool for free and swapped everything over. Take your time with it

-Grover67

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tOdB0HHH_g

Edited January 26, 2023 by Grover67
video

romeactual · January 26, 2023

kmeleon, my thought was removing the assembly first and then compressing the spring. Maybe that's why it was harder for you guys? I know the bottle jack under the strut helps get it off and the new one back on. Cool though, thanks for the input. I'm figuring a good couple of hours in the garage.

AJMBLAZER · January 26, 2023

Compared to when I put Bilsteins on my 2011 Silverado I thought it was easier this time. I put the spring compressors on and with the tie rods disconnected from the knuckles the spring and strut assembly just about fell out. I didn’t have to squeeze it down near as much as I did on my 2011. I also disconnected the sway bar.

mdrum93 · January 26, 2023

On 1/24/2023 at 12:50 PM, asilverblazer said:

I respectfully disagree with Tyler about preloading the spring. It will move the bottom of the strut further away from the strut/spring mount. Just like adding the spacer you already have does. This rotates the lower control arm farther down and takes the spindle and hub with it creating the lift amount. No additional compression or load is placed on the spring.

There will be less amount of down travel or droop in the suspension because the upper control arm will closer to to its droop stop. Though not likely more than your current setup already does. This can have a negative impact on ride quality. However, I never experienced this.

The shocks will be valved more aggressively than a factory shock, even more so than a worn one too. The additional damping can be described as being more stiff as the shocks more aggressively slow (control) the suspensions movement.

Heavier rated tires and over-inflated tires increase the amount of compression the shock absorbers must control. This makes impacts over bumps more harsh.

There is no difference between using the Bilstein shocks that have the adjustment ring for mounting height vs. the factory shock and an additional spacer to ride quality. (Aside from the difference in valving.) Since you did not notice a difference in the ride quality of the taller strut with spacer when you installed them, the Bilstein strut installed with the ring in the 'lifted' position will be similar to what you were already familiar with.

The results you should expect after removing the factory struts with the spacer and replacing them with the Bilstein shock in the lifted position would be overall less motion in the trucks suspension. The initial impact of a road imperfection may be more noticeable, but any subsequent motions would be less. Generally, this is preferred by most.

This is spot on. Pre-load is such a misleading term.

Edited January 26, 2023 by mdrum93

Ioniq MPG · January 28, 2023

Two floor jacks are a must for this install IMO. Also easier to pull the axle out of the knuckle, but be sure to support it well.

Gangly · January 30, 2023

On 1/25/2023 at 5:33 PM, kmeleon said:

The install sucks. I did my 21 Elevation and it took me and a master mechanic to do it. Spring compressors while strut still in the truck, Big pry bars and ALOT of ass even after removing the ball joint nut to get enough room to get the strut assembly out. Once you do the first one the 2nd obviously goes better but expect about 4hrs start to finish. And take your time when setting up the new strut in the assembly. I forgot to put the lift clip on the strut on the 2nd one and ended up doing the passenger side again when I saw the clip on the floor after putting it all back together. No videos yet that I saw back in November when I did mine.

Good luck

Your master mechanic friend should know better.

The shock and spring assembly come out as a single unit, easy as pie. They go back in just fine as well with no need to compress anything while removing or installing them on the truck. My guess is that y'all didn't disconnect the sway bar and steering linkages meaning your LCA's weren't at max droop. Either that or you removed the top nut for the shock shaft while it was still on the vehicle allowing the shock to continue to expand as you lowered the suspension. Spring compression should only occur after the assembly is completely removed from the vehicle and you are ready to put the springs on the new shocks.

Having done it multiple times myself, the removal and install is pain free and shouldn't take more than a short afternoon of wrenching, especially for a "master mechanic".