Jump to content

Upgrade opinion

bowtechjoe
 Share

Recommended Posts

bowtechjoe Enthusiast

bowtechjoe

Posted
Posted

I currently have a 20 trail boss 5.3 with 60K miles. No issues other than rear window leak. I’ve been contemplating an upgrade. Looking at the 22 RST with the 3.0 baby duramax. I drive about 1600 miles a month about 70/30 highway/country back roads fields etc. I currently get about 19 mpg highway with the trail boss. Just curious of everyone’s opinion if it’s worth it to upgrade to the small diesel over what I have?  I know diesel is more $ where I’m located and the added cost of maintenance on the diesel but for those who may have upgraded was it worth it? Thanks in advance for the responses. 

17Z71 Enthusiast

17Z71

Posted
Posted

I can't speak for upgrading to the diesel but the 2022 refresh is a nice upgrade by itself.  I like my new 2022 RST 6.2 more than I liked my 2019 LTZ 6.2.  Just my opinion but I think the refresh is that much nicer even with the RST compared to the older LTZ.  If I was choosing between the 3.0 and the 5.3, I would choose the 3.0 and especially with the refresh.  I never loved my 2017 5.3 and again just my opinion.  

bowtechjoe Enthusiast

bowtechjoe

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, 17Z71 said:

I can't speak for upgrading to the diesel but the 2022 refresh is a nice upgrade by itself.  I like my new 2022 RST 6.2 more than I liked my 2019 LTZ 6.2.  Just my opinion but I think the refresh is that much nicer even with the RST compared to the older LTZ.  If I was choosing between the 3.0 and the 5.3, I would choose the 3.0 and especially with the refresh.  I never loved my 2017 5.3 and again just my opinion.  

Thanks for the reply. The refresh is very nice also. Apparently no one else has an opinion if the difference in mpg and maintenance is worth it. Lol. 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Why spend money you don't need to?

I used to upgrade for HP. I don’t use most of the so called upgrades now. Cruise control, blue tooth I’m happy.

bowtechjoe Enthusiast

bowtechjoe

Posted
  • Author
Posted
23 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Why spend money you don't need to?

Well I’m at 60K on my 5.3 which is the end of the powertrain warranty. I drive a lot of miles back and forth to work and vacations throughout the year. The price of the 3.0 is the same or cheaper than another 5.3 plus it’s a 100K warranty and better fuel mileage. Just looking if those differences and the added maintenance on the 3.0 are worth it. 

  • Like 1
bowtechjoe Enthusiast

bowtechjoe

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Jt-bo said:

Any reason you’re going with the 22 LM2 motor vs the 23 LZ0?

No reason other than I can get a 22 with the LM2 a little cheaper from what I’ve seen

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted
54 minutes ago, bowtechjoe said:

No reason other than I can get a 22 with the LM2 a little cheaper from what I’ve seen

How much is a little?

jaxcam02 Enthusiast

jaxcam02

Posted
Posted (edited)

If money is not an option go for it. But your probably going to be paying at least 10 - 20k more than what your 2019 went brand new, the inflation on vehicles is still high.

Edited by jaxcam02
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, bowtechjoe said:

Well I’m at 60K on my 5.3 which is the end of the powertrain warranty. I drive a lot of miles back and forth to work and vacations throughout the year. The price of the 3.0 is the same or cheaper than another 5.3 plus it’s a 100K warranty and better fuel mileage. Just looking if those differences and the added maintenance on the 3.0 are worth it. 

 

"Upgrade" has a catchy sound to it...doesn't it? Have you noticed the price of diesel is high enough to eat the entire difference in fuel cost and then some? DEF cost. PPF issues?

 

Your current ride, well maintained, has triple or better the current miles left in it. What "thing" does the newer truck have you just can't live without? A wireless phone charger? A third cup holder? Under dash lights? 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted (edited)

My latest upgrade in a truck was my 14 GMC. Now that was an upgrade. It was quiet, smooth, no wind noise. The best part was just by adding E-85 I got 25 more HP. The engine deactivation made me queasy. My avalanche is my favorite. I only added blue tooth. I don’t want anymore technology. My phone has everything I use. I like simple. It took me two years to know all that my 15 CRV had. I just turned off everything I could after it tried to stop in the middle of traffic. Someone was just moving into the turn lane. Probably why my mother in law quit driving. She probably thought the car was possessed. 

Edited by KARNUT
Jt-bo New Member

Jt-bo

Posted
Posted

I just went through this when looking for a truck. I was looking at both the Duramax and the 6.2 and there really wasn’t a big difference in price from 22 to 23. A few thousand bucks with really isn’t much when you consider what your payments will be on a 60 something thousand dollar truck. What really makes the biggest difference is what options you choose. A leather Z71 opted RST could end up being five grand more than one with cloth and the basic 4wd. 

Amcguy1970 Enthusiast

Amcguy1970

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, Jt-bo said:

I just went through this when looking for a truck. I was looking at both the Duramax and the 6.2 and there really wasn’t a big difference in price from 22 to 23. A few thousand bucks with really isn’t much when you consider what your payments will be on a 60 something thousand dollar truck. What really makes the biggest difference is what options you choose. A leather Z71 opted RST could end up being five grand more than one with cloth and the basic 4wd. 

 

Shoot its more than that when considering all engine options and packages. Most can remove the Z71 package, pretty much no one uses 4 low. Shoot, remove 4wd if you live down south and aren't off roading which pretty much no one does, that is another 3500 saved. Then leather and safety/tech packages are another 2k. You can get out with a 5.3 for 58k (or 55k for a 2wd) or well option with the bigger engines for around 10k more all in. Just need to buy what you need and use.

 

As far as the original question, only the OP can make that decision. Fuel savings won't be there especially if you aren't towing. So the diesel is more a want at that point. Premium is 75 cents more per gallon here in north Texas and Diesel is 1.50 more than regular, so the fuel savings right there is nonexistent over ten years; especially when taking into consideration the higher maintenance costs and DEF required at our local prices. Using nation averages the 10 year very slightly leans towars the diesel but not enough to pay off the difference or add maintenance and DEF costs (which btw is all easily found on google); so if doing it for the fuel savings then that is backwards. Just upgrade if you want because anyway you slice it that is a poor financial decision.

 

Tyler

It's Tim Senior Enthusiast

It's Tim

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Amcguy1970 said:

Just upgrade if you want because anyway you slice it that is a poor financial decision.

Most peeps have to crash & burn (some multiple times) before they realise Dave Ramsey is right. It's a great feeling knowing one can purchase anything they can afford with cash, not to mention the abiltiy to sleep like a rock at night not having to worry about money.

If I can't buy it at the end of the month I'm not buying it at all, I'm off the credit Ferris wheel and never getting back on.

: ' )

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,246 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...