Sort of Project

ArcticFoxCJ · January 31, 2023

Got this puppy for 400 bucks. 2002, 4.3L A/T 4x4. Needs a transmission and stereo, and the brakes don't work so well. That dent is the only significant body damage. Other than that it seems reasonably solid and I'm thinking it would be a good candidate for a flip.

That said, part of me wants to hold onto it as I have family that could possibly use it.

Anybody know of any gotchas or pitfalls I should be preparing myself for?

Edited January 31, 2023 by ArcticFoxCJ

Niners 365 · January 31, 2023

Well for starters how many miles are on it? Also do you know any of the history on it? If the motor starts n runs, but the transmission is out, I would be leery of this. A/T don't usually go out, just start to slip, i.e. loose gear. This can usually be fixed a tyranny rebuild kit.

A rebuilt tyranny for this truck could cost more than the value of the truck. These 4.3 V6 with the Spider fuel injection, is not as sought after as there versions before. The 4.8 v8 replaced the 4.3L v6 with a better fuel rail system. The 3.6L they have out is ok, but not alot of power at the rear. How does the engine run? Or does it? Brakes can be fixed, just depends on the amount of damage that was done to them. Do you know if the actual 4x4 works? Or just been told it does? Let us know more detail on it. I.e. milage, wear n tear your aware of, etc.

dna9656 · January 31, 2023

I have an 04 same same. I don't like it, you sit too close to the floor, the cab isn't as big or as nice as the 1st generation truck have. You can still get a hard bed cover for it on Amazon. You can't get a factory or aftermarket floor mat and it doesn't tow much. It gets worse mileage than my '06 5.3; (it weighs 6,000 lbs, the S 10 weighs 4klbs.) Avalanche. The 4 X 4 just quit, I haven't looked into it yet as there are other priorities right now. Paying some one to r and r and rebuild the tranny is gonna be $3k. The 4L 60 E has some weak parts. The engine bay is really crowded so changing plug, cap, rotor and wires is going to be a PIA. It has a remote mounted oil filter and a interesting engine oil cooler, it needs one because the engine bay is so crowded. The air cleaner has a snorkel on it that uses a adhered (You can't replace the gasket, you get a new snorkel) Maybe donate it to the local high school....get a write off if you have enough to itemize, most of us don't.

Edited January 31, 2023 by dna9656

ArcticFoxCJ · January 31, 2023

13 hours ago, Niners 365 said:

Well for starters how many miles are on it? Also do you know any of the history on it? If the motor starts n runs, but the transmission is out, I would be leery of this. A/T don't usually go out, just start to slip, i.e. loose gear. This can usually be fixed a tyranny rebuild kit.

A rebuilt tyranny for this truck could cost more than the value of the truck. These 4.3 V6 with the Spider fuel injection, is not as sought after as there versions before. The 4.8 v8 replaced the 4.3L v6 with a better fuel rail system. The 3.6L they have out is ok, but not alot of power at the rear. How does the engine run? Or does it? Brakes can be fixed, just depends on the amount of damage that was done to them. Do you know if the actual 4x4 works? Or just been told it does? Let us know more detail on it. I.e. milage, wear n tear your aware of, etc.

She's got about 240k miles. Was a farm truck for a while but doesn't seem to have been beaten up too badly. The engine runs pretty well and the transmission is slipping, not completely out and struggles to get into reverse. I have found a company nearby that sells rebuilt units for $975 with a 1 year warranty, so I'm going to go that route. I know how to rebuild automatic transmissions but I don't have the equipment nor enough experience to feel confident about it!

It is the W engine code so it has the fuel rails, not the TBI.

The 4x4 does work, we tested that under actual field conditions.

12 hours ago, dna9656 said:

I have an 04 same same. I don't like it, you sit too close to the floor, the cab isn't as big or as nice as the 1st generation truck have. You can still get a hard bed cover for it on Amazon. You can't get a factory or aftermarket floor mat and it doesn't tow much. It gets worse mileage than my '06 5.3; (it weighs 6,000 lbs, the S 10 weighs 4klbs.) Avalanche. The 4 X 4 just quit, I haven't looked into it yet as there are other priorities right now. Paying some one to r and r and rebuild the tranny is gonna be $3k. The 4L 60 E has some weak parts. The engine bay is really crowded so changing plug, cap, rotor and wires is going to be a PIA. It has a remote mounted oil filter and a interesting engine oil cooler, it needs one because the engine bay is so crowded. The air cleaner has a snorkel on it that uses a adhered (You can't replace the gasket, you get a new snorkel) Maybe donate it to the local high school....get a write off if you have enough to itemize, most of us don't.

The interior is in surprisingly good shape, other than the missing stereo.

So far the only work I've done to it is to replace the battery. (And frankly I'm tempted to swap it with the older battery in my K2500) so I'm not committed, but I'd really like to save it. Other than the transmission it doesn't have any serious issues I've discovered yet.

Niners 365 · January 31, 2023

You found someone who is selling transmissions for a grand with a year warranty on this truck. Hmm I would be very leary of this. The brakes you were saying are bad, how bad? Calipers, shoes, new rotors can be very pricey. 240k, do you know if the head gasket has blown? GM engines are known to have the head gasket blow between 125K, and 180K. 300K is about the life of and engine, rings, valves, etc become really worn, break etc. Cost to replace all that, is why folks usually scrap em, or new crate engine.

Mine blew head gasket at 128K, I got lucky and it didn't eat my thrust bearing bottom of engine. I was told by GM mechanic, that usually happen when prolong driving after head gasket blows. What I would do in your shoes, is add up the costs the have this truck up n running/driving. Then look at the "Good" condition in Kelly Blue Book. See if the effort is worth the value you may get out of it if your planning to flip. Perhaps parting it out, selling engine, 4x4, and other parts that work, may bank you more$$ than paying out to fix it. My two cents

ArcticFoxCJ · January 31, 2023

24 minutes ago, Niners 365 said:

You found someone who is selling transmissions for a grand with a year warranty on this truck. Hmm I would be very leary of this. The brakes you were saying are bad, how bad? Calipers, shoes, new rotors can be very pricey. 240k, do you know if the head gasket has blown? GM engines are known to have the head gasket blow between 125K, and 180K. 300K is about the life of and engine, rings, valves, etc become really worn, break etc. Cost to replace all that, is why folks usually scrap em, or new crate engine.

Mine blew head gasket at 128K, I got lucky and it didn't eat my thrust bearing bottom of engine. I was told by GM mechanic, that usually happen when prolong driving after head gasket blows. What I would do in your shoes, is add up the costs the have this truck up n running/driving. Then look at the "Good" condition in Kelly Blue Book. See if the effort is worth the value you may get out of it if your planning to flip. Perhaps parting it out, selling engine, 4x4, and other parts that work, may bank you more$$ than paying out to fix it. My two cents

This the site, and they referred me to a local shop.

https://www.twiwarehouse.com/rebuilt-transmissions#REMANUFACTUREDCHEVYGMCTRANSMISSIONS

They were very clear in pointing out the transmission is rebuilt, not remanufactured, and it does come with a new torque converter.

I haven't looked yet at the condition of the pads/shoes but the pedal is extremely low, even though the brake fluid is full. I'm suspecting the master cylinder but I won't buy anything until I've looked over the whole system. Just haven't made the time yet.

The engine seems to run pretty smoothly, so it may have already been through the head gasket fun. My only complaint there is it's a bit exhaust noisy, so I will also need to look for an exhaust leak.

I've looked at the KBB good cost and it's around 3k, so at this point if that transmission source works out and the brakes don't need much beyond the master cylinder, I can make a reasonable amount back. But that also means not doing anything about the body damage, and cosmetic stuff hurts price, so that's a hurdle and part of why I may just keep it in the family fleet. I don't have room to part it out with my other project already taking up the "dead" slot in my driveway

Niners 365 · January 31, 2023

One way to tell if head gasket isn't blown. Start the truck, let it run, and watch out the tail pipe for couple minutes. If you see steam coming out the pipe, your head gasket is blown. You can tell difference in steam and exhaust in smell and evaporation. That is another 1000 to 1500 fix depending on damage. What about the hub bearings? Have those been redone? Or they on the 240K as well? Around 150K it's recommended those be replaced, or atleast repacked. Hope it all works out for you. Let us know how it went

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ArcticFoxCJ · January 31, 2023

6 minutes ago, Niners 365 said:

One way to tell if head gasket isn't blown. Start the truck, let it run, and watch out the tail pipe for couple minutes. If you see steam coming out the pipe, your head gasket is blown. You can tell difference in steam and exhaust in smell and evaporation. That is another 1000 to 1500 fix depending on damage. What about the hub bearings? Have those been redone? Or they on the 240K as well? Around 150K it's recommended those be replaced, or atleast repacked. Hope it all works out for you. Let us know how it went

..

Will do, thanks.

I used to be an auto tech before I was a computer nerd so I understand all this stuff. I just spent most of my career as a Nissan tech so I didn't have a ton of familiarity with the gotchas and nuances of Chevy or anything else. That's why I'm very comfortable with my 280Z project but I'm being very cautious with this. My K2500 has a 350 and a 4L80e and everything's pretty easy to work on and get to, so that hasn't been a problem at all.

Even when I had to pull the transfer case to R&R the transmission output shaft seal it was much easier than I anticipated.

But this S-10... I feel both enthusiastic and intimidated at the same time.

KARNUT · January 31, 2023

At that price I’d keep it around as a backup tinker project. I suck out the transmission fluid change the filter. If you’re getting all gears there may be life left. Master cylinder, easy. Maybe pull the dent. That’s a 7K truck here in Texas without a lot of sweat equity.

dna9656 · February 7, 2023

The master cylinder reservoir is full with the brake pedal low because some one kept topping off the brake fluid. the fluid level decreases as the brake pads wear because the caliper pistons travel further as the the friction pad wears down, that's all completely normal, but also why you should not top off the brake fluid but using the low level as a indicator that there is a brake job that wikll need to be done in the near future.

Homewrecker007 · February 7, 2023

I've always wanted to get one of those and cut the frame and put the back half of a s10 with the longer box on it. I like the 4.3l I had in my 99. But if it was a matter of fixing the 4.3l I would probably put a 5.3l in it with a beefed up 4l60E

Edited February 7, 2023 by Homewrecker007

KARNUT · February 7, 2023

3 hours ago, Homewrecker007 said:

I've always wanted to get one of those and cut the frame and put the back half of a s10 with the longer box on it. I like the 4.3l I had in my 99. But if it was a matter of fixing the 4.3l I would probably put a 5.3l in it with a beefed up 4l60E

There’s a time I would have said put a V8 in it. Now I’d have to research putting a turbo 4 in it.

ArcticFoxCJ · February 7, 2023

9 hours ago, dna9656 said:

The master cylinder reservoir is full with the brake pedal low because some one kept topping off the brake fluid. the fluid level decreases as the brake pads wear because the caliper pistons travel further as the the friction pad wears down, that's all completely normal, but also why you should not top off the brake fluid but using the low level as a indicator that there is a brake job that wikll need to be done in the near future.

Low brake pads don't cause a low pedal. As you said, as the pads wear, the calipers fill with fluid so the pedal travel isn't affected. A low pedal where the brakes engage firmly is typically an out-of-adjustment rear brake system when there are drum brakes.

In this case, the truck is 4-wheel disc so it isn't likely to be that. I should have been more clear, the pedal is not only low but incredibly soft, and the brakes never firmly engage. So the first thing I need to confirm is that there isn't air in the brake lines. (One way that can happen is if the previous owner had let the fluid get too low and topped it off too late, after some air had gotten into the hydraulic system.) If after I bleed them the pedal remains soft, then the master cylinder is the most likely culprit.