2018 Silverado Key won't turn ignition

[millwright1178]

My key stopped working in the ignition. it happened with out any prior issues of any kind . I have had many Chev and other vehicles over the years and usually there is some kind of prior indication of ignition problems from sticky keys to the tumblers in the barrel becoming problematic. This how ever just happened with no prior indication . When the key is inserted the odometer will light up as it usually does. The steering is not  in the lock position so that is not an issue, the key itself has never had extra keys on it so  extra hanging weight  is not an issue , the key ( see photo below ) is in good condition by all appearances with no indicated wear or bending.  When the key is inserted slowly I can hear tumblers clicking ( not sure if all of them are ) . The only thing that has changed was a sever cold snap for two days which is now over, but it was during that time that the ignition stopped working and still does not work. 

I grew up with cars and trucks , race cars etc....and worked in the automotive for a number of years as a certified tech and the last 26 years as a certified Industrial mechanic (Millwright) I have checked everything that I could think of . I bought the truck brand new off the showroom floor and have been the only driver it currently has 163,000 KM (101,283 miles) on it.

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Billy 

[discgolf01]

2 hours ago, millwright1178 said:

My key stopped working in the ignition. it happened with out any prior issues of any kind . I have had many Chev and other vehicles over the years and usually there is some kind of prior indication of ignition problems from sticky keys to the tumblers in the barrel becoming problematic. This how ever just happened with no prior indication . When the key is inserted the odometer will light up as it usually does. The steering is not  in the lock position so that is not an issue, the key itself has never had extra keys on it so  extra hanging weight  is not an issue , the key ( see photo below ) is in good condition by all appearances with no indicated wear or bending.  When the key is inserted slowly I can hear tumblers clicking ( not sure if all of them are ) . The only thing that has changed was a sever cold snap for two days which is now over, but it was during that time that the ignition stopped working and still does not work. 

I grew up with cars and trucks , race cars etc....and worked in the automotive for a number of years as a certified tech and the last 26 years as a certified Industrial mechanic (Millwright) I have checked everything that I could think of . I bought the truck brand new off the showroom floor and have been the only driver it currently has 163,000 KM (101,283 miles) on it.

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Billy 

 

 

Does your 2nd key (assuming you've never used it) do the same thing?

 

 

[millwright1178]

No it does the same thing, both will unlock the door no problem and both are in good condition with no signs of wear.

I am going to check the small mechanical cable that connects to the lower part of the ignition assembly on the right hand side of the steering column and connects into the cylinder of the ignition  I am having trouble finding detailed information on this mechanical cable , or any other mechanical components that would prevent the key from turning or even a mechanical diagram on the web. 

[mikeyk101]

When you say the steering wheel is NOT in the lock position, I'm not quite understanding. Mine gets  locked when ignition is turned back in off position otherwise the key cannot be removed.

[mikeyk101]

Just to add, I have occasionally had the issue where ignition would not turn. If I grabbed steering wheel and yanked it hard either right or left while tying to turn the key, I could get the ignition key to turn properly. Not sure why but only happened a few times. I think it was from front wheels binding up against something.

[millwright1178]

FYI     

This is the only info I can find its a photo of a replacement ignition unit from a 2017 1500 Silverado. The ignition  cylinder lock actuator cable has been know to cause problems  GM has a recall on some 2014 and 2015  Silverado models  due to this problem. Tomorrow I will check this on my truck if the cable is sticky or  stuck  before i jump the gun and spend a chunk of money on either  a new key cut or and entire ignition , as this issue only happened after a sever cold snap with no prior issues at all.

 

 

 

 

[millwright1178]

59 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

Just to add, I have occasionally had the issue where ignition would not turn. If I grabbed steering wheel and yanked it hard either right or left while tying to turn the key, I could get the ignition key to turn properly. Not sure why but only happened a few times. I think it was from front wheels binding up against something.

The steering is not in the locked position  

 

[rav3]

Have you tried putting the gear shift in natural?

 

 

[richard wysong]

It is possible you got some pocket lint in the lock cylinder, See if you can look inside or try blowing it out with compressed air

[millwright1178]

2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

When you say the steering wheel is NOT in the lock position, I'm not quite understanding. Mine gets  locked when ignition is turned back in off position otherwise the key cannot be removed.

Mine does not get locked when i turn the key off unless i try turning the wheel on purpose then it will go into the lock position at that point i have to turn the steering wheel a bit to get it to unlock so my ignition works , right now my steering is not in the locked position 

 

[millwright1178]

10 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

It is possible you got some pocket lint in the lock cylinder, See if you can look inside or try blowing it out with compressed air

Thanks Richard that is one of the things I will check in the morning, when I removed the plastic housing on the steering column there was quite  bit of crud and dirt on the entire ignition housing assembly I  am thinking this is hopefully a part of the problem, there was never a problem or indication of a problem even ever so slight until the extreme cold weather we had that's when this happened .it was -45 Celsius ( -49 Fahrenheit) for 2 days, I just figured the metal parts had frost on them and it would be ok when it warmed up  - not so.