Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I put an order in for a new AT4 gas with the 10-speed over the weekend.  Dealer had allocation for one white HD and I went ahead and placed the order.  Hopefully it gets picked up.  I was gonna get and SLT but honestly there was little to no difference in price when you optioned the trims similar.  There was a couple things on the SLT that I wanted that in order to get you had to get extra packages like cameras, blind spot sensors, etc.  Honestly I didn’t want that stuff but I did want a bed view camera.  That’s the hook they get you with.  If a guys orders a base SLT the MSRP only went up a minimal amount, but they stick you on any upgrades.  I had to at least have the bucket seats at a minimum.  The AT4 trim pretty much comes standard with all that stuff.  In fact the only option I picked was the gooseneck prep package, even though the B&W is better IMO.  I feel stupid ordering a pickup this nice but at the prices these things are what’s another $4-5 grand?  IPlus I think the AT4 will hold its value well.  I’m sure I’ll take a bath trading in my 23 SLE though.  I could live with the SLE but you can’t get factory leather.  I know you can it aftermarket but I’d rather have it installed from the factory.  

 

At least my dealer i working with me a bit.  He’s knocking $1500 off MSRP and “hopefully” the trade isn’t too bad.  But at these prices it’s still stupid.  

 

Only thing I’m a little nervous about is I’m getting this thing without knowing if this 10 speed is the ticket or not.  I think it will be a nice upgrade, but time will tell  whether it will be as reliable as the 6L90.  I don’t have any issues with the 6 speed I just hope the 10 speed is better.  They did bump the GCVWR from 24K to 26K so that makes me feel better.  I don’t think my 2015 LML is even that high but it will handle that weight no problem.  

 

So I’m excited yet anxious at the same time.  Hope it all works out! 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, SWDoodle said:

Well I put an order in for a new AT4 gas with the 10-speed over the weekend.  Dealer had allocation for one white HD and I went ahead and placed the order.  Hopefully it gets picked up.  I was gonna get and SLT but honestly there was little to no difference in price when you optioned the trims similar.  There was a couple things on the SLT that I wanted that in order to get you had to get extra packages like cameras, blind spot sensors, etc.  Honestly I didn’t want that stuff but I did want a bed view camera.  That’s the hook they get you with.  If a guys orders a base SLT the MSRP only went up a minimal amount, but they stick you on any upgrades.  I had to at least have the bucket seats at a minimum.  The AT4 trim pretty much comes standard with all that stuff.  In fact the only option I picked was the gooseneck prep package, even though the B&W is better IMO.  I feel stupid ordering a pickup this nice but at the prices these things are what’s another $4-5 grand?  IPlus I think the AT4 will hold its value well.  I’m sure I’ll take a bath trading in my 23 SLE though.  I could live with the SLE but you can’t get factory leather.  I know you can it aftermarket but I’d rather have it installed from the factory.  

 

At least my dealer i working with me a bit.  He’s knocking $1500 off MSRP and “hopefully” the trade isn’t too bad.  But at these prices it’s still stupid.  

 

Only thing I’m a little nervous about is I’m getting this thing without knowing if this 10 speed is the ticket or not.  I think it will be a nice upgrade, but time will tell  whether it will be as reliable as the 6L90.  I don’t have any issues with the 6 speed I just hope the 10 speed is better.  They did bump the GCVWR from 24K to 26K so that makes me feel better.  I don’t think my 2015 LML is even that high but it will handle that weight no problem.  

 

So I’m excited yet anxious at the same time.  Hope it all works out! 

Good stuff, I hope it all works out great for you.

Posted

In 2021 I went the other way with an SLT plus packages over an AT4. I’m not someone who loves chrome, but i did not want painted bumpers on a truck. That was the deciding factor for me. Otherwise i like the more blacked out look of the AT4.
 

This is the first vehicle I’ve had with all the driving safety warning systems. At the time I ordered I really only wanted some of those features, but after using it a while I really like all of the warning features, and they work quite well. 
 

Suggestion:  Get the 220 amp alternator and the second battery. It’s way cheaper to order them than it is to add them later if you decide you want them. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Another JR said:

Suggestion:  Get the 220 amp alternator and the second battery. It’s way cheaper to order them than it is to add them later if you decide you want them. 

Last spring when I was trying to order a truck then gave up on that idea, that was the option I wanted too.  But when would that really be needed?  Plowing and extra lights perhaps?  My 170amp does great charging up our camper battery when hooked up to it.  I wish I had it, but I'm not sure where it would come into play.

Posted

I just sold my 2021 and ordered a 2024 thats very similar except for the trailering app package that gives you the bedview and the trailer TPMS. 

I also got the 220a alternator again and added the 2nd battery since we primarily use the truck for our fifth wheel. I didnt want the truck to struggle with enough power for the added trailer load. For less than $130 I got the 2nd battery, I dont think I could buy one for that aftermarket let alone the extra cabling. 

  • Like 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, Jettech1 said:

Last spring when I was trying to order a truck then gave up on that idea, that was the option I wanted too.  But when would that really be needed?  Plowing and extra lights perhaps?  My 170amp does great charging up our camper battery when hooked up to it.  I wish I had it, but I'm not sure where it would come into play.

I bought the second battery to support an on-board air compressor for reinflating the tires after airing down off road.  The bigger alternator was to make sure I had plenty of current available at idle to run the compressor, recover the start battery quickly, and charge my camper batteries at 35 amps (worst case load).  I also bought the high idle switch option but didn’t want to have to use it.  Again, I didn’t want to kick myself later and those options were all pretty inexpensive. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Another JR said:

In 2021 I went the other way with an SLT plus packages over an AT4. I’m not someone who loves chrome, but i did not want painted bumpers on a truck. That was the deciding factor for me. Otherwise i like the more blacked out look of the AT4.
 

This is the first vehicle I’ve had with all the driving safety warning systems. At the time I ordered I really only wanted some of those features, but after using it a while I really like all of the warning features, and they work quite well. 
 

Suggestion:  Get the 220 amp alternator and the second battery. It’s way cheaper to order them than it is to add them later if you decide you want them. 

I've gotten SLT's in the past and have always liked that look, but wanted to try something different this time.  I'll be honest I don't like the idea of having painted bumpers, but we'll see how they hold up.  In regards to the technology yeah it's great to have especially if you do any city driving (which we don't do much of).  My wifes Yukon has the tech package and I enjoy it, but figured for a pickup using around the farm may not be the best idea.  Anymore we use Rangers/ATV's for cattle stuff so the pickups hardly ever go off-road too much and we have some beaters for that anyway.  

 

Thanks for the heads up on the dual batteries.  I didn't check that box but maybe something I could change before it's too late.  

Posted

You should be able to add or subtract options right up to the week before the build week, assuming the parts are available. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Another JR said:

I bought the second battery to support an on-board air compressor for reinflating the tires after airing down off road.  The bigger alternator was to make sure I had plenty of current available at idle to run the compressor, recover the start battery quickly, and charge my camper batteries at 35 amps (worst case load).  I also bought the high idle switch option but didn’t want to have to use it.  Again, I didn’t want to kick myself later and those options were all pretty inexpensive. 

And that is why I wanted it, it was very inexpensive on the build sheet.  I thought, WTH, why not.

Posted

My understanding was that options could be changed (assuming theres no restrictions on that option) up until the point that the dealer receives the allocation and submits the order to GM for acceptance. Once GM accepts the order no changes are allowed. This seems correct given the sketchy nature of some supplied parts. GM is still struggling with shortages in some things you would never expect. 

Rumor is that the 23 run is over, changeover is ongoing and 24's will start regular production on Thurs 2nd or Friday 3rd. 

(Flint assy)  Oshawa ? no idea. 

Posted

Mine has the 220a alternator because it has plow prep pkg. just a plate for the second battery is under hood but seeing how insane it looks to add a second battery, that’s not happening. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

My understanding was that options could be changed (assuming theres no restrictions on that option) up until the point that the dealer receives the allocation and submits the order to GM for acceptance. Once GM accepts the order no changes are allowed. This seems correct given the sketchy nature of some supplied parts. GM is still struggling with shortages in some things you would never expect. 

Rumor is that the 23 run is over, changeover is ongoing and 24's will start regular production on Thurs 2nd or Friday 3rd. 

(Flint assy)  Oshawa ? no idea. 

Well that kind of lines up with what GM has been putting out there on the start of production anyway.  Guess I won't worry about it till I actually get confirmation from my dealer GM accepted the order and then it's just the waiting game.  Normally probably 8-10 weeks but we don't live in normal land and haven't for a while.  I did ask the dealer if they would send vehicles out with missing components that would be later retrofitted.  He didn't think they would do that anymore.  Said that little experiment probably cost them a ton.  I was missing hood insulation on my 23 that I just recently got installed.  So that makes me feel better that if and when my 24 arrives it will have everything on it.

 

There is one thing messing around on the GMC configurator last night that caught my eye.  I guess you can select different tire options.  You can get a factory 20" BFG All-terrain as an option.  All it said was "See Dealer for pricing".  So I did email my dealer and asked him to check into it.  Maybe that is something I can change before it's accepted.  The factory Goodyear Wranglers are ok but the BFG's would look pretty good on an AT4 IMO unless it's a big upgrade to change.    

Posted

I dont think they have abandoned the possibility of a "build short" situation. They are still having issues with supplier ability to keep up. I do know that the trucks that were stored around Flint were sometimes put into fields that required trucks to be pulled out of because they turned to mud during the spring thaw. It was ugly. One was about 8 miles North of the plant on the side of I-75, it made me sad. LOL

Posted
3 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

I dont think they have abandoned the possibility of a "build short" situation. They are still having issues with supplier ability to keep up. I do know that the trucks that were stored around Flint were sometimes put into fields that required trucks to be pulled out of because they turned to mud during the spring thaw. It was ugly. One was about 8 miles North of the plant on the side of I-75, it made me sad. LOL

Man think if you were the lucky one that got one of those!  Nice thing about a new vehicle is that it's pristine when you pick it up.  That would suck to have a bunch of mud up under the frame when you got it.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...