Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hope someone can give me some ideas. 

I have a '14 Sierra (5.3L,2WD) with 151K miles. About 30K miles ago I changed the plugs and wires and about 5k miles ago I had a coil go out on me, but I only replaced 1 coil.

 

I currently have a slight misfire. It runs fine at idle and at WOT throttle. But when I'm at part throttle, I will feel a slight miss that gives me a light buck. It is not severe enough to throw a code, and I have not noticed a significant drop in gas mileage. 

 

Should I start by replacing all the coils? I know once 1 goes, the rest are soon to follow. Or could this be a sensor or something else?

 

Any help or insight would be great.

 

Thanks in Advance!

Edited by JD Olivares
  • Like 1
Posted

A scanner of sorts will tell you what cylinder is miss firing while it is.

 

Also you can just sand the plug connections of the coils and apply dielectric grease. Make sure you twist (left to right) the connectors back on to remove the trapped air so they do not push back off the connectors.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a friend with a 2014 5.3 - replaced his coils twice over 200K miles.
He's not a savvy guy for automotive stuff so just does what the techs tell him needs to be done.
Once he was told to replace all blend doors on the AC vent system for $1000. I scanned it, relearned it and no problems since.
I wasn't available to scan his coils but I'm sure he was taken advantage of on the replacement of them all.
A really good scan tool can be well worth the cost once the warranty is over.
 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/12/2023 at 11:16 AM, JD Olivares said:

It runs fine at idle and at WOT throttle. But when I'm at part throttle, I will feel a slight miss that gives me a light buck. It is not severe enough to throw a code

Slight buck... not at idle... not at WOT... no misfire code... when torque converter is trying to lock... 

 

 

...may not be a miss at all.

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I was getting misfire on my 2017 silverado 6.2 and turned out to be a bent push rod. But I could hear the engine running rough and was getting misfire on cylinder 4 code 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 547 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...