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2500 vs 3500 non daily driver


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So is there any reason to pick a 2500 over a 3500?

 

I'm not in a location where cost of registration or insurance plays into it. I'm wanting the 6.6 gas so payload isn't a problem. 

 

I THOUGHT the trucks were generally the same, different leaf packs and rear axle, but otherwise the same.

 

Then I saw the Max Trailering for the 2500 which not only requires the diesel but also says you get 3500 frame, axle, and suspension. 

 

Is the frame really different? Is the ride of the 3500 really that much harsher?

 

While not a daily driver it will still get driven several times a week. No camper yet but the goal is one that will go on 2 long distance trips a year but at least once a month will also be used within 100 miles from home.

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Only someone with access to the GM database could say for sure exactly what the differences are between the 2500 and 3500 as far as parts. Frankly I dont get the 2500 max towing with the 3500 items, just buy a 3500 and be done with it. In an era where GM seemingly wants to build trucks with packages and as similar as possible this addition doesnt seem to fit. 

My 2021 and the 2024 I have ordered are both 3500's. The cost difference is minimal and frankly even with the front camper spring upgrade on them it still rode okay. I am a big advocate for buying more truck than I need in order to allow for future changes. I could get by towing my fifth wheel with a 2500 but it would be close numbers wise and why take the chance. 

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I also agree with "get the most capacity you can"

Pay attention to single or dual rear wheel load capacity with the gas motor, if i am reading this chart from GM correctly, the 4x4 crew cab long bed single rear wheel has a higher capacity than the same config with the dual rear wheel specified. 18,250 single rear wheel, 17,900 dual rear wheel.

 

Screenshot_20230418-064522_Samsung Internet.jpg

Edited by vucelick
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I chose capacity over all else. I cannot comment on the ride quality difference between the 2500 and 3500, but I am content with the ride quality of my 3500. I also have the snow plow prep package for the stiffer front springs. I purposely chose the 18" wheels instead of the 20" wheels to give more sidewall on my tires to help with the ride quality.

If you intend to do any serious hauling then you will want to put bags, or some other suspension mod, on your rear axle anyway, unless you like riding on the leaf springs.

In the end, both trucks can probably haul close to the same weight, if modified. But the factory sticker on your door jamb will still be the final word when it comes to law enforcement.

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Get the 3500 unless you need a lower GVRW/GCWR/GAWR on paper for some reason.  I do not believe you could ever pick the 2500 vs the 3500 SRW out of a blind test for ride quality, loaded or unloaded.  The DRW gets a little bumpy unloaded on rough roads (but still not too bad).  

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2 hours ago, jjackkrash said:

Get the 3500 unless you need a lower GVRW/GCWR/GAWR on paper for some reason.  I do not believe you could ever pick the 2500 vs the 3500 SRW out of a blind test for ride quality, loaded or unloaded.  The DRW gets a little bumpy unloaded on rough roads (but still not too bad).  

 

Thankfully the lower 2500 numbers are not a factor on paper for anything. I just wanted to get clarification if the ride of the 3500 was so much worse that the small upcharge from 2500 to 3500 would make me regret the 3500.

 

31 minutes ago, NaturallyAspirated said:

FWIW I chose 2500 mostly because I could in fact tell the difference in ride quality and didn’t need the small payload improvement. On the other hand I’m about to switch to softer leaf packs with airbags so maybe you shouldn’t listen to me…

 

My last truck was a 95 Ram 2500 Cummins 2wd with 28 year old suspension. I'm willing to bet even a dually with the HD front suspension option will feel better ride wise than what I'm used to ha

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