Emission test still not ready after 2 months

[Payton34]

So my emissions showed not ready and it was due to my diablosport pulsar lt which I found out block the signal to the obd port.  So removed the Pulsar in early November and been driving since but each week I check the IM readiness with a scan tool it still shows Evap and Egr as incomplete. I am due in February for emissions. How long can these test take to complete. I know I can pass with 1 incomplete so need the Evap or Egr to complete. I been keeping gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 but don’t know what else to do. Could a mechanic with a scan tool force the computer to complete a test?

[m3n00b]

How many miles have you driven?

[Payton34]

About 500 miles

[mjm-1957]

What year truck and what engine?

[customboss]

2014 GMC Sierra Crew SLT 6.2L 

 

 

OBD still reading the pulsar. Reset the system again and make sure your EVAP system is not defective. 

 

 

Edited January 7, 2024 by customboss

[mjm-1957]

That truck does not have an egr valve if its the truck in your profile description. It should pass with the evap monitor not ready.

[Payton34]

It’s a 2014 6.2 6 speed. I disconnected the battery and removed the pulsar 2 months ago.  If it doesn’t have Egr why does it show 2 incomplete when I look at the IM readiness screen and it lists Egr and Evap

[ember1205]

What scan tool / app are you using?

 

Is it possible that it's "expecting" information from components that aren't actually present and not getting it as opposed to actually reading the existing components?

 

There are a few different things that could cause systems to be "not ready"...

 

- Actual fault. Have you checked for set codes, pending, codes, and historical codes to see if anything shows up? How good is your reader / app at seeing ALL of the historical codes? (I ask because my cheap FOSEAL reader and basic phone app don't see the full list of historical codes that my dealer can pull)

- Not enough miles / drive cycles since a reset. The general guidance for emissions-related things is to expect to have to drive about 15 full drive cycles (cold start, up to full operating temp, back to cold) and about 200 miles since the clearing of a code or reset.

- (Unexpected) resets. Pulling the battery cable will reset all of the systems and require up to the full 15/200 as previous to get to a "ready" state. Pull the pending codes on the truck frequently to be sure that something isn't "getting ready" to throw a code and then goes away - that could be resetting the cycle for that system. And don't pull the battery cable again if you don't have to.

 

See if your scanner / app will show you details like how many drive cycles and miles since reset. I can get that from one of the apps on my phone (inCarDoc, I believe).

[newdude]

4 hours ago, Payton34 said:

So my emissions showed not ready and it was due to my diablosport pulsar lt which I found out block the signal to the obd port.  So removed the Pulsar in early November and been driving since but each week I check the IM readiness with a scan tool it still shows Evap and Egr as incomplete. I am due in February for emissions. How long can these test take to complete. I know I can pass with 1 incomplete so need the Evap or Egr to complete. I been keeping gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 but don’t know what else to do. Could a mechanic with a scan tool force the computer to complete a test?

 

 

What device are you reading the monitor status with?  Code reader?  Diagnostic scanner? 

 

IIRC, these trucks have Misfire, EVAP, O2, Heated O2, Catalyst, Fuel System, EGR/CMP and I can't remember the last monitor.  You need all but one of them ready to pass OBD II emissions plug in testing for inspection.  EGR/CMP.  These trucks don't have an EGR system on them, so its the CMP that it tests for.  Camshaft Position for the VVT.  

 

Here is the drive cycle for a 2014 Silverado/Sierra:

 

COLD START CRITERA:

• The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V.
• The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.
• The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F).
• The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F).
• The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met:
  • The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F).
  • The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F).
• Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.

 

Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.

1. Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above.
   • If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable.
2. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.
3. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.
4. Start and idle the engine for 2 min.
5. Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.
6. Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.
7. Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.
8. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.
9. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.
10. Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.
11. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.
    • If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.

[mikeyk101]

5 hours ago, mjm-1957 said:

That truck does not have an egr valve if its the truck in your profile description. It should pass with the evap monitor not ready.

 

Interesting because my EGR shows as complete. (NM, I see in post above by @newdude it is a EGR/CMP but is testing just the CMP) Here was the Emissions system readiness screen from my torque pro app one time when I was getting it ready for my Illinois emissions test.

 

 

I had been monitoring it because I found out hard way that my Range AFM delete would cause a failure if pulled just prior to doing the emissions test just like it seems the Diablo Sport Pulsar also apparently does.

 

The last time I did emissions test here in Wisconsin about a year ago, I had everything that was available listed as complete and it passed. And that was just from an afternoon of driving. I filled up the tank, drove about 10 miles of stop and go, then about 45 miles at highway speeds, next a few more stop and go miles, then another 45 miles or so back at highway speeds, and finally the 10 miles at stop and go. I did several stop and start cycles during this trip as well. The EVAP Sys has always been the last one to show complete but it has passed the Illinois emissions in the past with that showing Incomplete. 

Edited January 8, 2024 by mikeyk101

[Payton34]

I have a cheap Amazon code reader. I guess since I keep it I the garage the cold start test of coolant temp having to be below 42 wasn’t happening   I will park outside this week so hopefully the EGM/CMP TEST will go complete. MOTOPOWER MP69033 Car OBD2 Scanner Code Reader Engine Fault Scanner CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBD II Protocol Cars Since 1996, Yellow https://a.co/d/cMahCDf 

[newdude]

2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

 

Interesting because my EGR shows as complete. (NM, I see in post above by @newdude it is a EGR/CMP but is testing just the CMP) Here was the Emissions system readiness screen from my torque pro app one time when I was getting it ready for my Illinois emissions test.

 

 

I had been monitoring it because I found out hard way that my Range AFM delete would cause a failure if pulled just prior to doing the emissions test just like it seems the Diablo Sport Pulsar also apparently does.

 

The last time I did emissions test here in Wisconsin about a year ago, I had everything that was available listed as complete and it passed. And that was just from an afternoon of driving. I filled up the tank, drove about 10 miles of stop and go, then about 45 miles at highway speeds, next a few more stop and go miles, then another 45 miles or so back at highway speeds, and finally the 10 miles at stop and go. I did several stop and start cycles during this trip as well. The EVAP Sys has always been the last one to show complete but it has passed the Illinois emissions in the past with that showing Incomplete. 

 

 

You've got all but one set so it should pass.  That would pass here in NY for inspection.  7 out of 8 ready.  

[mikeyk101]

16 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

You've got all but one set so it should pass.  That would pass here in NY for inspection.  7 out of 8 ready.  

It did. 2 times in Illinois prior and also again in Wisconsin. First Wisconsin one looked like that one in my post above. The last one in December 2021, I had all 8 in green, no red so that test easily passed. 

 

Kind of off topic, the testing in Illinois sucked. I could usually count on a line of cars that I would have to wait for before I got my opportunity to pass. And none of the testing sites were ever conveniently located. Here in SE WI, I just have to drive 2 blocks to the gas station/repair shop and tell them I need the emissions test. Both times I have been able to pull right into the shop and get tested with no wait. A couple minutes and I'm done. I can also buy my license plate renewal sticker right on the spot if I wish. I still think emissions tests are just a big scam but it's so much easier to do now.

[mikeyk101]

3 hours ago, Payton34 said:

I have a cheap Amazon code reader. I guess since I keep it I the garage the cold start test of coolant temp having to be below 42 wasn’t happening   I will park outside this week so hopefully the EGM/CMP TEST will go complete. MOTOPOWER MP69033 Car OBD2 Scanner Code Reader Engine Fault Scanner CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBD II Protocol Cars Since 1996, Yellow https://a.co/d/cMahCDf 

 

That seems like it should be a decent one. The one I have is a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII one. It lets me find out the codes, clear codes, and monitor various things. I have to use Torque Pro on my phone to see the data. But it is very customizable and can monitor all kinds of functions on same screen. Here is the one I use mostly when towing to see the various temps.

 

 

It comes in handy. I have a splitter cable plugged into the OBD port so I can have this reader running as well as my Range AFM disabler.

 

 

bbfly-B6 OBD2 Splitter 16 Pin OBD II Splitter Extension 1x Male and 2X Female Extension Cable Adapter (1FT/30CM) (1Pack) https://a.co/d/91wcdp9

I just tuck it up under the dash so it's not hanging down.