Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Had to jump start the truck Sunday morning.  Now I have this.  How in the hell do I clear it? Have an appointment with the dealer for Wednesday.  Hopefully it's something I can do myself for free.

2019 Sierra Denali 1500

1-21-24.jpg

Posted

Is it possible that the GPS needs to recalibrate the compass information? Check the manual for how to do that as it typically involves driving in circles / figure 8 a number of times if that's what it is.

Posted
14 hours ago, ember1205 said:

Is it possible that the GPS needs to recalibrate the compass information? Check the manual for how to do that as it typically involves driving in circles / figure 8 a number of times if that's what it is.

I thought the same thing but the compass on the DIC is correct.

Posted
17 hours ago, TRKLGND said:

Had to jump start the truck Sunday morning.  Now I have this.  How in the hell do I clear it? Have an appointment with the dealer for Wednesday.  Hopefully it's something I can do myself for free.

2019 Sierra Denali 1500

1-21-24.jpg

Unhook the battery + and negative - cables and leave it unhooked for about 5-10 minutes or longer to drain the system and hook it back up and try it, it sensed a voltage spike when jump starting.

Posted (edited)

Replacing batteries before they die is a good idea.

Edited by diyer2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 1/23/2024 at 8:06 AM, diyer2 said:

Replacing batteries before they die is a good idea.

That's helpful in figuring out the issue.  For your information, the battery was 1 week old!  So piss off.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/23/2024 at 7:05 AM, Silverado4x4 said:

Unhook the battery + and negative - cables and leave it unhooked for about 5-10 minutes or longer to drain the system and hook it back up and try it, it sensed a voltage spike when jump starting.

Tried that.  Didn't help unfortunately.

Posted (edited)
On 1/23/2024 at 7:05 AM, Silverado4x4 said:

 

This is from the work order from the dealer.

Checked for radio software and found the radio not calibrated.  Tech programmed and calibrated the radio to the vehicle. Tested operation.  All ok at this time.
Programming Code: 80YN199825780

They could not explain why the radio lost it's calibration.  Claim they have never seen that before but they always claim that.

No idea why a 1 week old battery would need a jump.  They said it was low but passed all the tests.  They put it on a charger for a couple of hours.
I had the battery installed at Firestone as a preventative measure.  It was 4-5 years old and we were expecting temps of -5F.  Maybe they didn't charge it at all?  No idea.  We'll see how long she holds.  I'm concerned there is a parasitic power draw somewhere.

Edited by TRKLGND
Posted

No need to be a  jerk, I made a suggestion. Original post said nothing about battery being replaced. 

Another suggestion, I always put a full charge on new batteries with my charger.

  • Like 1
Posted
30 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

No need to be a  jerk, I made a suggestion. Original post said nothing about battery being replaced. 

Another suggestion, I always put a full charge on new batteries with my charger.

You made a suggestion based on an assumption.  An incorrect assumption at that.  Your suggestion did absolutely nothing to address the question that was posted.  It was simply a smart ass comment.

As for fully charging a new battery... if I had been the one to install the battery I would do this.  I would not expect to have to charge a new battery installed by a shop.
 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

I've bought new batteries that are bad.

I haven't but 100% agree that it happens.  Sometimes ****** just breaks.  

Posted
On 1/25/2024 at 2:45 PM, TRKLGND said:

I haven't but 100% agree that it happens.  Sometimes ****** just breaks.  

I use to work at an auto parts store.  We carried Exide batteries.  We always swapped out unsold batteries that were 6 months old.  Might want to look at the manufacture date on the battery.  It's often times just a simple circle sticker with a month and year on it, such as 12/23 for December 2023.  If it was 6 months or older at the time it was installed that could possibly explain why you experienced the issue you did.

 

The only way it was a 1 week old battery is if it had been manufactured 1 week before it was installed in your truck, but you wouldn't be able to know that info.  Best you be able to figure is in months. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 413 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...