Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Im getting A fifth wheel travel trailer next month. We are going to start camp hosting, so the truck will mostly be used to drive into town for supply runs.  The dry weight of the trailer is going to be about 14000 lbs.

I just wanting to know what the difference is between the 2500HD and the 3500HD SRW. im definitely going with the 6.6 duramax and the allison 10 speed. 

One dealer told me the only difference is one leaf spring in the rear. Not sure if that warrants another 20k to the price.

Edited by Jason Hewitt
add
Posted

Assuming the 2024 is the same as the 2020-2023 in these areas …

 

The price difference between similarly equipped 2500 and 3500s should be a few hundred dollars. 
 

The 3500 rear leaf spring pack has a second stage spring on the bottom that engages sooner than the second stage spring on a 2500. Contrary to what you will see in some threads, the main spring packs are different. You see that on an unloaded truck as a big difference in the gaps above the bottom spring in the spring pack. Also, the 3500 has a third stage separate spring and bumpers above the axle. Most people call this the overload springs. The 2500 does not have this third stage nor the hardware and bumpers for them on the frame.  Some have mentioned a trim option of the 2500 that has the 3500 spring configuration for 2024. 
 

Payload difference will be 600-800 lbs. 

 

The 3500 diesel has a larger rear differential gear set. I don’t think the 2500 diesel has it, but I could be wrong.  The gmc web site should tell you that. 

 

3500 forces you to get tow mirrors. Great when you need them, but block your view quite a bit when you don’t. 2500 it’s optional. 
 

The empty ride is noticeably more firm in the 3500 due to the spring difference but not horrible.  Lowering tire pressure makes a big difference. When you test drive, the dealer has everything at max pressure, so keep that in mind. 18s ride better than 20s in my opinion. 
 

What did I miss?

Posted

I had a 2020 HD 2500 Diesel and also have a 12500lb 5th wheel. Loaded we were right at or a little over on payload. I traded for 2024 3500 HD mainly for the payload increase and Another Jr is correct about the ride both loaded and unloaded. Very happy with the upgrade

Posted

I don't have experience with the 2500 but I sure like my 3500.  I sold my Ford F250 and bought the 3500.  

Posted

If you're towing that heavy of a 5th wheel then definitely get the 1-ton. Not sure where the extra $20k is coming from, though. Trucks with identical trim/features should only be about $1k different between a 2500 and 3500.

Posted (edited)

With average pin weight of 20-25% of the trailer weight, you're looking at around 2800-3500 lbs. My 1-ton SRW gasser has a payload of a little over 3900 lbs, so a diesel will have a few hundred less than that. Some people might even recommend a DRW...

Edited by BuckWallace
Posted

3500 will be the right choice.  It will give you some extra payload so you have to worry about being over GVW.

 

A 2500 max tow would be an option as well.  This is a re-badged 3500.

 

#iworkforGM

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Don't want to derail the Op's thread but if any of you have anything to add to my thread I started " 2500 in Canada " Please feel free to add 

Thank You !

Posted (edited)

Get a 3500 unless you need the lower numbers of the 2500 for some reason, like state licensing and/or tax stuff, and you don't have an already existing use case that's ok with the 2500's lower payload.

Edited by chwilliams
being pedantic
Posted

In some states the 3500 costs a lot less to license because its gvwr puts it in the commercial truck range. 

Posted

Not sure if this has been mentioned already but here goes .In my research to but a 2024 Chevrolet 2500 HD  is if you get the MAX TOW package on the 2500 it is the same as the 3500 . Automotive Inquiries has a video on You Tube concerning this . I think its the first one he does when he buys the Red 2500HD  Custom 

Posted

I checked with my insurance provider, a 3500 AT4  is $800 a year less in insurance than the same 2500.

I am in Canada though.

Posted
On 2/26/2024 at 4:55 PM, chwilliams said:

Get a 3500 unless you need the lower numbers of the 2500 for some reason, like state licensing and/or tax stuff, and you don't have an already existing use case that's ok with the 2500's lower payload.

I think we’re kind of saying the same thing, but I’ll say it a little differently. Setting aside the licensing and insurance cost differences that may vary by location, I would not recommend simply defaulting to a 3500 because it has more payload capacity. The ride is noticeably stiffer on a 3500. If you know you don’t need the payload, a 2500 will be more comfortable. It’s worth taking a good look at your needs and deciding if you really need the extra stiffness and 600 or so lbs of extra payload rating. It sounds like the OP needs it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...