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Posted

Not actually specific to trucks, but I couldn't find a general category.

 

I have a Campbell Hausfeld 20 gallon, 4.5 HP compressor, advertised as 125psi max, although it appears the factory setting is 110. I usually keep my truck ('22 Sierra 2500HD) tires at 70 and 60 psi, unless towing.

 

This morning, to top up the tires I turned on the compressor and the motor ran until the tank was full. I set the regulator to 80psi and although each tire was only down a couple psi, it took an extraordinarily long time to get to the required psi. At the first tire, the initial "burst" of air was audibly noticeable, but after a couple seconds the movement of air was almost too faint to hear, in fact some of the time, I could not hear any air movement at all. Multiple checks of the handheld tire gauge (not the one attached to the air hose) showed an incredibly slow rise in air pressure. I tried raising the regulator pressure with no change. I eventually (like 15-20 minutes) filled each tire, with the same slow pressure rise. The compressor motor did not activate during this process. At the conclusion, I opened the drain valve and air escaped forcefully until it eventually died after a few minutes, indicating the tank was quite full.

 

So, is this normal? I would have thought the air delivery would be fairly strong and constant (until the tank needed refilling) or is this just the way it is for higher psi truck tires? I googled but could not find a definitive answer on whether one could safely raise the factory setting a bit (seems weird for an advertised 125 psi tank, they set it much lower) and if so, whether this would change the way the tank delivers air? I can get plenty of air by opening the hose by manually pressing the "nipple" (don't know what that part is technically called), so I know the hose and connectors are working.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Marv

 

 

Posted

You could have a issue with your compressors regulator or the air chuck you put onto the valve stem of the tire. I had a sticky pressure regulator on my air compressor (it was a factory plastic piece of junk that my kobalt 30 gallon compressor came with) and I also had the air chuck get sticky and it would block the air flow into the tire.

 

If you're careful you can remove the pressure regulator from the compressor and go straight to your air hose and turn off the compressor when the tank pressure is around 80psi or whatever you want it to then try to fill your tires. If it is still slow to fill and you have plenty of tank pressure then you have a restriction in the hose or more likely the air chuck going into your tire.

 

Personally what I do when filling up tires is to have the regulator fully open and let the tank pressure get up to around 110psi then turn it off and fill up my tires. I then use the left over air to blow things off like bugs inside the mirrors, clean my cell phones microphone and speaker ports, blow dust off my keyboards, etc. then I bleed the tank to empty the moisture inside it.

 

When you finish using your air compressor do you back off the pressure regulator all the way or do you leave it set to the pressure rating you put it to? You should really back it off when you finish using it so it can prolong the life of it and not wear out the spring inside the regulator prematurely.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/13/2024 at 12:20 PM, marpel said:

I have a Campbell Hausfeld 20 gallon, 4.5 HP compressor, advertised as 125psi max, although it appears the factory setting is 110. 

 

This morning, to top up the tires I turned on the compressor and the motor ran until the tank was full.

So there was 110 PSI in the tank, about 30 PSI over the regulator setting and 40 PSI over the tire.

 

On 4/13/2024 at 12:20 PM, marpel said:

At the first tire, the initial "burst" of air was audibly noticeable, but after a couple seconds the movement of air was almost too faint to hear, in fact some of the time, I could not hear any air movement at all.

The first 'burst' engaged the regulator, now only 80 PSI at the chuck, only 10 PSI over what the tire is. A small pressure differential will fill slowly.

 

On 4/13/2024 at 12:20 PM, marpel said:

I tried raising the regulator pressure with no change. I eventually (like 15-20 minutes) filled each tire, with the same slow pressure rise. The compressor motor did not activate during this process.

Sounds like a problem with the regulator. The compressor won't come on because pressure in the tank never fell below the pressure switch setting.

 

On 4/13/2024 at 12:20 PM, marpel said:

At the conclusion, I opened the drain valve and air escaped forcefully until it eventually died after a few minutes, indicating the tank was quite full.

The tank still had air pressure in it.

 

On 4/13/2024 at 12:20 PM, marpel said:

So, is this normal? I would have thought the air delivery would be fairly strong and constant (until the tank needed refilling) or is this just the way it is for higher psi truck tires?

Yes and no, that behavior is accurate except that your regulator is in the way. Like noted above, bypassing the regulator will let you inflate the tires using 110 PSI instead of what the regulator is set at (Its 'set' at 80 but I bet its closer to 70).

 

On 4/13/2024 at 12:20 PM, marpel said:

(seems weird for an advertised 125 psi tank, they set it much lower)

The pressure switch is set at 110 PSI max, below the tanks max so as not to blow it up... safety factor.

 

The regulator is the root cause of the issue describe, I'd remove it. Then the compressor will cycle, fill the tank to 110 PSI and shut off. Once the air has been bled off to the pressure switch minimum (60 PSI?) it will come back on. 

 

If there is more air in the tire than what the minimum PSI is on the compressor switch you could have a situation where the tire has 65 PSI, the tank has 65 PSI and the compressor won't come on until it goes lower than 60 PSI(?), meaning no rise in tire pressure. You would have to manually bleed off more air in the tank to get below the switch setting to fill the tank (and tire) back up.

 

I don't know what the minimum on your pressure switch is though.  

Posted

Kickass and asilver, thanks very much for the detailed responses.

 

As per your comments, I went out and purchased a new chuck to replace the one I had on the hose. I will try this first and if it doesn't improve, I will trade out the regulator. The hose is quite new and has no blockages so I am confident that has been eliminated as the problem.

 

And I will also raise the regulator pressure a bit (although the manual indicates to set the regulator to a psi just above the required psi - in this case 70, I think a small bump should be ok).

 

I also bleed the tank after every use, and turn the regulator down to minimum.

 

Thanks again,

 

Marv

  • Like 1
Posted
53 minutes ago, marpel said:

Kickass and asilver, thanks very much for the detailed responses.

 

As per your comments, I went out and purchased a new chuck to replace the one I had on the hose. I will try this first and if it doesn't improve, I will trade out the regulator. The hose is quite new and has no blockages so I am confident that has been eliminated as the problem.

 

And I will also raise the regulator pressure a bit (although the manual indicates to set the regulator to a psi just above the required psi - in this case 70, I think a small bump should be ok).

 

I also bleed the tank after every use, and turn the regulator down to minimum.

 

Thanks again,

 

Marv

If you wanted to be a fix-it type of person you can put the chuck in your bench vice and unscrew the end where the chuck goes onto the schrader valve. There is a little rubber washer in there and over time the washer gets worn out. I've replaced it before since I have a ton of rubber faucet washers on hand at home and it worked like new afterwards.

 

Do you have a blow gun at all? If you do, you can rule out a regulator problem for air volume by connecting that and leaving the gun wide open and see what your air flow is like.

Posted (edited)

you can lead a horse..... turn the regulator all the way open or eliminate it for filling tires or using alr tools. Regulated pressure is useful for spray painting and some nail guns. Most automotive tools work best around 180 psi even though the directions say 135. Commercial compressors do not have built in regulators, they shut off at the pressure set by the switch and kick back on when the pressure falls to the pressure set in the same switch. The regulator not only reduces the pressure but reduces the volume as well

Edited by richard wysong
Posted

Kickass - although I am a fix-it type, I figured I would just spend the $15 and buy a new chuck. I can always putz around with it later and take it apart to see the innards. And, yes I have a blow gun attachment, and I thought of using it but figured (with my uneducated layman's mind) it would not give me a true "resistance" like a partially filled tire would.

 

Richard - not sure the intent of your comment about leading a horse, almost sounds a bit condescending...however, as initially mentioned, the manual was explicit to set the regulator to the same psi as the intended destination (although it was non-specific as to filling tires). I presumed that meant as the tire psi was 70, I should set the regulator to reflect that. The compressor is used mostly for nail guns and blowing around wood dust in the shop so, for me, tire inflation is a bit foreign in this respect. Did not know the regulator reduces volume as well as pressure.

 

Have learned a great deal on this topic.

 

Thanks to everyone,

 

Marv

Posted
14 hours ago, marpel said:

Kickass - although I am a fix-it type, I figured I would just spend the $15 and buy a new chuck. I can always putz around with it later and take it apart to see the innards. And, yes I have a blow gun attachment, and I thought of using it but figured (with my uneducated layman's mind) it would not give me a true "resistance" like a partially filled tire would.

 

Richard - not sure the intent of your comment about leading a horse, almost sounds a bit condescending...however, as initially mentioned, the manual was explicit to set the regulator to the same psi as the intended destination (although it was non-specific as to filling tires). I presumed that meant as the tire psi was 70, I should set the regulator to reflect that. The compressor is used mostly for nail guns and blowing around wood dust in the shop so, for me, tire inflation is a bit foreign in this respect. Did not know the regulator reduces volume as well as pressure.

 

Have learned a great deal on this topic.

 

Thanks to everyone,

 

Marv

You can use the regulator... but it isn't helping anything and sounds like it is causing problems. Bypassing or removing it will fill the tires faster and easier.

 

A nail gun isn't using the volume that filling a tire is.

 

Generally speaking and some what in line with Richards comment, a consumer grade compressor isn't going to develop so much pressure that it needs to be regulated to properly run (protect) consumer grade tools. That being the case I'd say that most uses for compressed air are the more volume and pressure the better. Putting the regulator on is just inviting more issues. The reason its in the manual and it suggests to use it the way they have is to prevent someone from blowing up something like putting 110PSI in a lawnmower tire rated for 15PSI. 

  • Like 1
Posted

asilver,

 

Thanks for the additional information. I am learning a lot from this thread.

 

I suppose the best scenario is to use the compressor the way it is designed, for shop use, while being able to bypass/fully open the regulator for inflating big tires.

 

Marv

Posted
17 hours ago, marpel said:

I suppose the best scenario is to use the compressor the way it is designed, for shop use, while being able to bypass/fully open the regulator for inflating big tires.

Naw... the best scenario is to take the regulator and throw it in the trash. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thought I would provide an update,

 

After many helpful comments/suggestions, and educating myself on air compressors, I did the following

- Upgraded all fittings to High Flow to get a greater air flow.

- Replaced the outflow regulator (and gauge). Probably a good thing, regardless, as the old ones had some interior rust buildup.

- Installed a T fitting on which I attached the new regulator (with its own quick-connect coupler) on one leg and a straight-through quick-connect coupler on the other leg. I can now use the regulator for those tasks which may need some air flow control, or use the straight air flow when appropriate.

I have yet to test this set-up to confirm one way or another if any improvement will be realized.

 

Marv

  • Like 1

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