Jump to content

Husky vs. Weathertech Mud Flaps

Crazy Canuck

By Crazy Canuck
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
Posted

Anyone have experience with either?  I out the Husky's on my new rig this weekend but feel where they come up the wheel arches could collect sand and ultimately rub the paint off of them?  Might switch then the the Weathertechs.  Anyone have any experience with either?

Pryme Senior Enthusiast

Pryme

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Crazy Canuck said:

Anyone have experience with either?  I out the Husky's on my new rig this weekend but feel where they come up the wheel arches could collect sand and ultimately rub the paint off of them?  Might switch then the the Weathertechs.  Anyone have any experience with either?

I have the front and rear husky’s and have had them on a bit over a year so one full snowy winter and have no complaints. There is a small piece of clear tape you apply to that spot. I don’t see anything wearing and doubt it would. Those clips hold then on towards the top insanely tight. If you do a search I’ve posted a few pics of them including one showing how little snow gets on the side and back of truck. I’m glad I put them on. 

Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Pryme.  I saw your pics.  For mine  they didn't include the tape which is disappointing.  They didn't include drilling a couple if the holes in the right spots either lol.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Weathertechs on my truck for 9 years, no drilling or tape. Still happy.

  • Like 1
AndrewF Enthusiast

AndrewF

Posted
Posted

I went with Weathertech.  Work good with no concerns, no tape or drilling.  Would've rather bought the Gatorback set with finishing caps to remove the factory "mudflap" and have 1 true functional mudflap but i wasn't going to spend $700.

Pryme Senior Enthusiast

Pryme

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Crazy Canuck said:

Thanks Pryme.  I saw your pics.  For mine  they didn't include the tape which is disappointing.  They didn't include drilling a couple if the holes in the right spots either lol.

There is no drilling needed for the huskys or weather techs. 
 

the husky’s use only the factory mudflap holes and they have one clip that is attached up near the top. 

Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, AndrewF said:

I went with Weathertech.  Work good with no concerns, no tape or drilling.  Would've rather bought the Gatorback set with finishing caps to remove the factory "mudflap" and have 1 true functional mudflap but i wasn't going to spend $700.

I hear you on the gatorbacks, nice but pretty steep in price.  I ordered the Weathertech today.  Will take pics of both them and the Huskys before I take them off in case anyone wants to compare for the future.

ssgballistics Enthusiast

ssgballistics

Posted
Posted

I’ve had both on the current series trucks. I prefer the husky’s. The two are similar. It just comes down to preference. I have a full set of weather techs in my garage that I need to sell. 

Pryme Senior Enthusiast

Pryme

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Crazy Canuck said:

I had to redrill holes in the actual mudguard itself as they were a good distance off the factory holes.

Yeah I had some quality control issues with the husky rear wheel well liners that I needed them to send out and swap one out. Luckily my flaps were made as they should have been. 

BB&Chiveon Enthusiast

BB&Chiveon

Posted
Posted

I used to buy weather tech but in last 5 yrs quality stinks as made cheaper and warp. Now husky on everything 

on the 2500 though- factory liners are the best as they cover 100% of carpet in front. So I would recommend that 

Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/16/2024 at 4:33 PM, BB&Chiveon said:

I used to buy weather tech but in last 5 yrs quality stinks as made cheaper and warp. Now husky on everything 

on the 2500 though- factory liners are the best as they cover 100% of carpet in front. So I would recommend that 

I like the Husky Liners for sure.  Soft rubber vs. Cheap plastic.  The WT mud flaps are pretty good though.

  • Like 1
Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted

These are the Huskys.  They extend 12 inches fien from the top of the factory flap, front and back.  There is a fairly big gap between the upper part of the flap and the wheel arch - if mine weren't painted, this eould be kess of a problem but i feel sand and stuff would collect in there and wear the paint off.  The install is fairly straight forward removing the three screws from the factory flap and installing the Husky flap with those and a clip.  The fact that the screw holes in the Husky flap were not aligned with the factory holes and not even cleanly drilled through.  That and the fact the clip was quite difficult to get on without scratching the paint made the install a pain.  I ultimately took these off due to the gap between the flairs and the flap. 20241015_123358.thumb.jpg.a24094570b62748d382d532a8fa811c3.jpg20241015_123401.thumb.jpg.ed9dd30aa11b61e55f80493da1fa0cdc.jpg

Crazy Canuck Enthusiast

Crazy Canuck

Posted
  • Author
Posted

These are the Weathtechs.  They extend down 2.5 inches in the front and 4 in the rear further than the Huskys.  Although the likely provide more protection, they 'look' less sporty.  I would personally prefer if they were a bit shorter.  Install is simple, take the three screws out from the factory flap, and install the WT with that hardware.  The holes being in the right spots made this a breeze.  Given that the don't extend up past the factory flap, there is also no spot for pebbles to collect and rub paint off.  The WT has sort of a wrap around piece that hugs the back of the flap - this doesn't look the best but it's hard to see and helps with rigidity.  Both the WT and the Huskys feel quite sturdy.  20241017_145532.thumb.jpg.5acea0128d647d199a09c58c76646be8.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 500 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...