Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

2019 silverado, 5.3 L84, 81k miles.  Last few weeks I have been hearing a light tapping noise. I am well aware of the regular noises the engine makes and this is a new one. Ive been around engines all my life and Ive heard what excessive valve lash sounds like and this definitely sounds like it.  I put my mechanics stethoscope on and listened to the engine on both sides and the tapping sounds like its coming from the drivers side. The sound is roughly 1/2 engine speed and never goes away after engine is warmed up fully. At idle its not even audible but as soon as I pickup the RPM to 1500 it gets very noticeable and only gets louder with higher RPM. It does not feel like its down on power and no codes have been thrown.  I pulled both valve covers today looking for obvious problems. All rockers feel ok wiggling them around by hand and I cant find any excessive play in any of them. All springs and retainers are present and look to be in good condition. I eyeballed the push rods as best I could with a light and inspection mirror and I didn't see anything obviously bent  I also checked to make sure none of the rocker arm bolts were loose while it was apart.  The thing is the noise is not awful yet and hard to pickup on video but its definitely there. I want to address this before it becomes potentially catastrophic. I'm out of warranty and when I called the only GM dealership id let touch it they quoted me 6k to put the same junk lifters back in and that was if the cam was ok. I priced a whole set of parts to delete and tune out the DFM and while I can definitely swing it the labor is quite intensive and something Id rather not do unless it was absolutely necessary.  What else can I do to make sure It is lifter noise before I open it up?

Edited by DK91105
Posted

Given the history on these I personally would just go ahead and delete it and move on with your life. I think theres zero chance that noise isnt something bad and the sooner you do it the better chance you have of saving the rest of the motor. 

Posted
On 10/27/2024 at 8:17 AM, 64BAwagon said:

Given the history on these I personally would just go ahead and delete it and move on with your life. I think theres zero chance that noise isnt something bad and the sooner you do it the better chance you have of saving the rest of the motor. 

That's my thoughts as well.  I ordered a whole delete kit from Texas speed and have begun tearing into it.  It's not a fun job so far.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Man? If I tore down every small block Chevy because of a lifter tick. It’d probably been all of them. Including my current one. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
  • Sad 1
Posted
2 hours ago, DK91105 said:

That's my thoughts as well.  I ordered a whole delete kit from Texas speed and have begun tearing into it.  It's not a fun job so far.  

My son has a good friend thats a mechanic and has done at least 10 of them. No one regrets a delete on these. Its sad that Government pressure ruined an arguable bulletproof engine (at least the ones that got oil changes) 

Posted
8 hours ago, TheRiver said:

After the delete is done;  go to at least a 5w30 weight oil also.

 

LT1swap.com for the ECM.

I've already sent it to HP tuners for the unlock.   Once I get it back and it's ready to start it will have to go in and turn off the DFM and while I'm in there the auto stop / start.

 

Any reason for the weight change on the oil?

 

Yesterdays progress, remove the front accessories.   I'm not in a rush on this.  Truck is paid for and I have a spare vehicle.  I just do a few things a day and in a few weeks it will be done.  

20241028_193633.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I think I'll be purchasing a catch can before this truck is back running again.   Take a look at the buildup on the valve stem, all 8 intake valves look the same.   This is 81k miles with an impeccable oil change maintenance schedule.   I had a VW once that was direct injected like these engines and at about 65k miles on it, it started running so rough it was hardly drivable until it was scraped off.   The buildup on the valves was worse than this but not a whole lot more. This for sure 100% hurts performance.  

20241029_164606.jpg

Edited by DK91105
Posted

I installed an Elite Engineering catch can on mine soon after purchasing it. I would like to think it helps as it seems to catch quite a bit of crap.  Mine is a 2017 and I just broke 33,000 miles. I have been having problems with the transmission which is what I am working on now. I'm hoping I can get closer to your mileage before I consider doing this. Please let us know how it goes. 

 

The people that have successfully gotten through the deletes only have good things to say. However, I have watched a lot of videos that involve horror stories. That is probably due to human error but it still makes me nervous. I have worked on vehicles my entire life but if I decide to do this it will probably be the most involved thing I have ever done. I was also looking at the kits from Texas Speed. So you are opting to replace everything right? Lifters, camshaft, push rods etc? 

Posted

Your doing good, keep it up. 

 

I assume you are pulling the camshaft since you took the front end accessories?  I only pulled the alternator and idler to pull my heads, but I didn't have a reason to pull the camshaft.

Posted
2 hours ago, Hexa Fox said:

I installed an Elite Engineering catch can on mine soon after purchasing it. I would like to think it helps as it seems to catch quite a bit of crap.  Mine is a 2017 and I just broke 33,000 miles. I have been having problems with the transmission which is what I am working on now. I'm hoping I can get closer to your mileage before I consider doing this. Please let us know how it goes. 

 

The people that have successfully gotten through the deletes only have good things to say. However, I have watched a lot of videos that involve horror stories. That is probably due to human error but it still makes me nervous. I have worked on vehicles my entire life but if I decide to do this it will probably be the most involved thing I have ever done. I was also looking at the kits from Texas Speed. So you are opting to replace everything right? Lifters, camshaft, push rods etc? 

Its usually a horror story if you wait until you hear the lifters before swapping everything.  By that time, metal is usually running through the engine and its a matter of time before you get a complete failure, even when replacing the cam and lifters.

Posted
4 hours ago, Hexa Fox said:

I installed an Elite Engineering catch can on mine soon after purchasing it. I would like to think it helps as it seems to catch quite a bit of crap.  Mine is a 2017 and I just broke 33,000 miles. I have been having problems with the transmission which is what I am working on now. I'm hoping I can get closer to your mileage before I consider doing this. Please let us know how it goes. 

 

The people that have successfully gotten through the deletes only have good things to say. However, I have watched a lot of videos that involve horror stories. That is probably due to human error but it still makes me nervous. I have worked on vehicles my entire life but if I decide to do this it will probably be the most involved thing I have ever done. I was also looking at the kits from Texas Speed. So you are opting to replace everything right? Lifters, camshaft, push rods etc? 

 

I've been working on stuff my whole adult-ish life.  Done engine swaps, builds, etc... other than that previous experience though I know nothing about these engines and every nut and bolt is a learning curve.  Absolutely zero clue how to take any of this apart besides a little intuition about how I think it should go.  ALSO I'm a YouTube certified master mechanic.  🙃  anytime I'm up against something iffy I just Google it and watch a video.  

 

Replacement items are lifters, cam, all gaskets etc...  don't think pushrod replacement is necessary.  

Posted

Here is a bunch of stuff that's about to get deleted.   Delete kit comes with a bunch of block off plugs with o- rings to get rid of all this.   

20241029_164432.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,660 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...