5W30 oil

[Bruin19]

I am not a forum guy.  I just signed up for this one topic because I want to do the best thing for my truck.  

 

My question is directed at those who use 5W30 (versus the 0W20) in the 5.3/6.2 engines.   

 

Have you had any issues/problems with running 5W30?  Did it cure oil consumption aka oil burning?  Anything else I need to know on this topic?

 

Thanks again.  All feedback is welcome.

[PunchT37]

Run it in my 5.3. Been in there since it`s 1`st oil change at 597 miles. It got down to 4 degrees here 2 weeks ago. All good with the "heavy stuff". Got 2800 miles on it now.

[Jay P]

The 6.2l engine is the same basic engine as is installed in the Corvette & Camaro (cam, programing and external parts are different). Neither one of them call for 0w-20 oil. 0w-40 is in the owners manual for both under some conditions. 0w-20 is purley for CAFE and emissions in the trucks/suvs.

Edited February 10, 2025 by Jay P

[Bruin19]

Thanks everyone for the replies!  I looked all over the internet and thought it would be a good idea to get advice from different sources.

 

The backstory is Ive been experiencing oil consumption (burn).  I looked into it and basically the 0W20 was getting around the piston rings and into the combustion chamber.  GM considers this normal and has a bulletin out on it.  I know this hasnt happened to me at all ever even with the previous generation Suburban.

 

Im thinking going thicker will help stop the "burn" as it will be harder for the oil to get inside the chamber.  The original version of this engine was designed for 5W30 and by 2014 it was very reliable.  

 

I also think a thicker oil layer will protect the lifters.  

 

BTW Im very strict on maintenance with 3000 mile OCIs.  I will make the change today to 5W30.

Edited February 10, 2025 by Bruin19

[Bruin19]

Before changing to 5W30 oil I did an engine flush with Liqui Moly Engine Flush.  Used 2.5 cans per the instructions and ran for 15 minutes.  This is the maximum strength using the instructions on the can.  

 

I changed it out with 5W30 oil and also added Liqui Moly Motor Oil saver which basically helps with the seals.  So far no issues.  I did not see any difference between the 0W20 and 5W30.  The engine seemed to take it well.  

[PunchT37]

I took a vid with the 0w20 and the 5w30. One can hear the difference.

[Bruin19]

One final technical note based on my Googleing.

 

0W vs 5W oils...0W will flow better in cold climates like during a Canadian winter.  5W oils tends to be a little thicker, more resistant to shear/dilution and heat.  The 5W oils are better for severe service whereas the 0W is for cold sub zero climates   

 

While the 0W and 5W ratings are refering to their flow in cold climates the two oils are built differently.  The end result is a 5W30 is best for most climates and 0W30 should only be used for something like a Canadian or Montana style winter where you know starting the car will be difficult.

[PunchT37]

Yep. I`m down here in south Louisiana. I`m thinking of going up to a 10w30 when the spring kicks in. Hell, even most nights here are at 76 to 80 degrees for the "coolest" in the summer.

[Bruin19]

58 minutes ago, PunchT37 said:

Yep. I`m down here in south Louisiana. I`m thinking of going up to a 10w30 when the spring kicks in. Hell, even most nights here are at 76 to 80 degrees for the "coolest" in the summer.

 

I was tricked into believing that the truck only runs good on 0W20 and that maybe even engine codes might pop if I did it different.  Than the engine started burning oil around 50k miles.  I asked my buddies and their trucks burning it too.  Go to the dealer and they tell you its normal but on my last run I added 3 quarts over 3k miles.  Doesnt seem normal. 

 

So yeah probably need even thicker in a hot climate.  I wonder what the dealers in Arizona and Texas fill the trucks with?  0W20???

 

This Youtube guy looks like he is in a warm area and doing some off roading...and he keeps loading it up with 0W20 wondering whats up...

 

 

Edited February 17, 2025 by Bruin19

[PunchT37]

Those dfm style lifters have been around since 2007 or so. Back then, there were not nearly as many lifter failures and not as many oil consumption complaints. What changed? My brother and a few coworkers have older afm 5.3`s with almost 200,000 miles with no problems. BUT, back then, 5w30 was spec`d. Sooo...

[Jay P]

1 hour ago, PunchT37 said:

Those dfm style lifters have been around since 2007 or so. Back then, there were not nearly as many lifter failures and not as many oil consumption complaints. What changed? My brother and a few coworkers have older afm 5.3`s with almost 200,000 miles with no problems. BUT, back then, 5w30 was spec`d. Sooo...

My 2008 Avalanche has 240,000 miles and the engine has never been opened up. No issues with the AFM/lifters. The only thing that sucks is the AFM cycling in and out. I have EFILive and as soon as the temps warm up I'm going to program the AFM to stay off (too risky to program with a cold battery).

[Grumpy Bear]

https://lubrication.expert/viscosity-understanding-its-central-role-in-lubrication/

 

Quote:

HTHS (High-Temperature High-Shear) viscosity is a measure of an engine oil’s viscosity under conditions of high temperature and high shear rate, which are typical in engine bearings and other critical components. This parameter is crucial for ensuring adequate lubrication and protection in modern engines, especially under severe operating conditions.

 

HTHS viscosity is measured at 150°C (302°F) using specialized equipment that simulates the shear forces encountered in an engine. The value is expressed in millipascal-seconds (mPa·s).

 

The main significance of HTHS viscosity is its ability to indicate the oil’s performance in maintaining a protective film between moving parts under high stress and temperature. Oils with higher HTHS viscosity values provide better protection against wear and reduce friction, which is essential for engine longevity and efficiency. However, higher HTHS viscosity can also result in increased fuel consumption.

 

SAE classifications for engine oils also specify minimum HTHS viscosity requirements to ensure that oils meet the necessary standards for protecting engines under demanding conditions. For instance, oils labelled as SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, and 10W-30 must meet certain HTHS viscosity thresholds to be considered suitable for use in specific engine applications. [Close quote]

 

When I quote things like this I don't necessarily mean go up an SAE grade. Within a single grade there is a wide range of HTHS lubricants available. i.e. any Dexos1Gen3 5W30 will have an HTHS value of 2.90 cP. The other end of the scale would be something like Evolve Lubricants  EvoSyn 5W30 at 4.09 cP.

 

 

[Bruin19]

My change to 5W30 was strictly in the name of oil consumption aka oil burning.  Oil sneaks around the rings into the oil chamber where its burned...not good!  So I figure going thicker will make it harder for it to get in there.

[Grumpy Bear]

14 hours ago, Bruin19 said:

My change to 5W30 was strictly in the name of oil consumption aka oil burning.  Oil sneaks around the rings into the oil chamber where its burned...not good!  So I figure going thicker will make it harder for it to get in there.

 

What motor and what year? How many miles? When did it start using? Details matter. 

[Bruin19]

2023, 5.3 liter, 58398 miles on car, 2137 hours on engine.  High use work truck.

 

Started noticing around 50000 but my buddies told me before it happened to me their trucks were getting the low oil light message.  Since its a work truck I always change at 3000 miles so I probably simply didnt notice it.  My buddies have higher intervals. 

 

I once had a 2016 Suburban and it had some issues but burning oil was not one of them.  I think this is something isolated to current generation models.

 

Im not sure if all this stuff Im doing will.work but had to try something...

Edited February 19, 2025 by Bruin19