5W30 oil

Grumpy Bear · February 22, 2025

That is allot of idle hours.

Grumpy Bear · March 29, 2025

On 2/10/2025 at 2:33 AM, Bruin19 said:

I am not a forum guy. I just signed up for this one topic because I want to do the best thing for my truck.

My question is directed at those who use 5W30 (versus the 0W20) in the 5.3/6.2 engines.

Have you had any issues/problems with running 5W30? Did it cure oil consumption aka oil burning? Anything else I need to know on this topic?

Thanks again. All feedback is welcome.

I have a motor that the OEM tells me to use 0W20 in AND I do UOA's, study UOA's and hoard UOA's sifting them for data.

The designer specifies an oil SAE grade based on multiple factors and wear is not the first factor in consideration these days. It is A factor not just the first. But as it goes the idea is that a total wear metals value of 5 ppm per thousand miles in service use is a number to be at or below to get said machine past the warranty and long enough thereafter to keep the most fragile portion of any companies portfolio in tact...its Reputation.

Graph of such information with a few lines of explanation below.

Horizontal axis is the total number of miles on the engine. Each dot an oil change along that path. The vertical axis the 'total wear metals' divided by the number of miles for the oil change multiplied by 1,000 to normalize results of varying intervals.

The black line is the OEM target value. 5 ppm/1K

The white line is the Universal Average Results of this motor using 0W20 oils across all units tested.

So the first thing you notice is, Yes, 0W20 at specific OEM intervals will indeed meet the engineering standard and company goals.

The yellow/orange line is the result of a fellow that owns this motor that has used 5W30 Mobil 1 from day one. Early high results are NORMAL break in and every motor goes through this process. But by about 18,000 miles, break-in completing he matches the standard. By 20,000 miles he matches the 0W20 Universal Averages and by 30K has cut wear 28% which is about in line with some published scientific papers that show there is about a 30% improvement in wear abatement by using 5W30 over *W20.

That red dot is my first sample using 5W40. No idea how that is going to work out but first blush is promising.

This isn't my opinion. These are results. YMMV and as always, you do you.

customboss · March 30, 2025

On 2/10/2025 at 1:33 AM, Bruin19 said:

I am not a forum guy. I just signed up for this one topic because I want to do the best thing for my truck.

My question is directed at those who use 5W30 (versus the 0W20) in the 5.3/6.2 engines.

Have you had any issues/problems with running 5W30? Did it cure oil consumption aka oil burning? Anything else I need to know on this topic?

Thanks again. All feedback is welcome.

Welcome, If you are consuming 0w-20 in a GM V8 especially a ACTIVE FUEL MANAGMENT VERSION you have issues that have nothing to do with viscosity to slow oil consumption.

Read over here for science based answers, not opinion.

Bruin19 · March 30, 2025

A lot of people have issues with the 2021+ 5.3 burning oil...there are videos on Youtube, posts in forums and everyone I know who has one has this issue.

One fact is in order for oil to burn it must get past the pistons and into the combustion chamber. How or why its getting past the pistons we dont know but it is.

Thus going thicker is a no brainer solution. If you go thicker it will be harder for the oil to get into the chamber.

Edited March 30, 2025 by Bruin19

customboss · March 30, 2025

4 minutes ago, Bruin19 said:

A lot of people have issues with the 2021+ 5.3 burning oil...there are videos on Youtube, posts in forums and everyone I know who has one has this issue.

One fact is in order for oil to burn it must get past the pistons and into the combustion chamber. How or why its getting past the pistons we dont know but it is.

Thus going thicker is a no brainer solution. If you go thicker it will be harder for the oil to get into the chamber.

Come over to the science side and read up. That is if you want to learn.

customboss · March 30, 2025

18 minutes ago, Bruin19 said:

A lot of people have issues with the 2021+ 5.3 burning oil...there are videos on Youtube, posts in forums and everyone I know who has one has this issue.

One fact is in order for oil to burn it must get past the pistons and into the combustion chamber. How or why its getting past the pistons we dont know but it is.

Thus going thicker is a no brainer solution. If you go thicker it will be harder for the oil to get into the chamber.

Consider that maybe using a non recommended viscosity is masking the ROOT PROBLEM CAUSE.

Film Delta Comparison 0W20 vs 5W30

The film delta between 0w20 and 5w30 engine oils at 100°C in an operating V8 engine can be understood by comparing their viscosities at this temperature.

0w20: At 100°C, 0w20 typically has a viscosity of around 8.2 mm²/s.
5w30: At 100°C, 5w30 typically has a viscosity of around 8.9 mm²/s.

The difference in viscosity between these two oils at 100°C is approximately 0.7 mm²/s. This means that 5w30 has a slightly thicker film compared to 0w20 at the same operating temperature. This delta with an assumed 1% fuels dilution of your engine oil is not sufficient to slow oil usage.

Most of the engine oils in GM engines is well above 1%.

There are many OTHER levers one can use to stop oil consumption vs just a change from recommended 0w20 to 5w30. The delta is just not that big.

Grumpy Bear · March 30, 2025

2 hours ago, Bruin19 said:

A lot of people have issues with the 2021+ 5.3 burning oil...there are videos on Youtube, posts in forums and everyone I know who has one has this issue.

One fact is in order for oil to burn it must get past the pistons and into the combustion chamber. How or why its getting past the pistons we dont know but it is.

Thus going thicker is a no brainer solution. If you go thicker it will be harder for the oil to get into the chamber.

Sometimes true but not always. If the bore is polished, i.e., then sometimes a higher SAE grade will accelerate oil consumption at worst or have no effect in least.

Depends on the "IF". Meaning, what is the root cause. Bore polish? Stuck rings? (Hot) Plugged oil ring drains? High volatility oil? PCV issues? Fuel dilution? (GDI pump/injectors). Second ring land worn out? Bore ovoid? Valve seals dried out? Guides worn?

I think something that gets past many is that "Prevention" is a more apt response than "Reaction". People seem to like to protect the warranty instead of the machine. With throughfall choices you can avoid many "IF's".

GM's response should give everyone a huge hint. They replace pistons and rings in motors that consumption test show failure as long as the bore still has a crosshatch. Seals are not even addressed in the TSB. A second large hint comes from the aftermarket. Jasper Engines rebuilds with pistons with additional oil drain back area. 300% more! Its been effective.

What that says is cleanliness is important. Hugely important. So is tune integrity. Watching like a Hawk fuel dilution percentages.

Edited March 30, 2025 by Grumpy Bear

customboss · March 30, 2025

Gotta funny video over here to watch then discuss. it’s an OPEN GROUP you don’t have to join to read up.

Bruin19 · April 1, 2025

Sorry I do not have time to participate in a group. I saw the word "BITOG" or Bob Is The Oil Guy website. That website is and always has been a revenue/income generating website for its owner. It has many sponosors and the website obviously leans towards its sponsors. So there is someone out there or a small group which makes their income off of this site and those running it are very sensitive as to what gets posted. I even believe many of the aliases are simply "staff members" with multiple accounts controlling the Narrative. At one point they had a guy with a Durango who did a 25000 mile oil change with a sponsors product.

Thus anything on that website needs to be taken with a grain of salt.

I would not post on that site because I would be an unpaid content provider helping someone make their income from behind a desk.

customboss · April 1, 2025

4 hours ago, Bruin19 said:

Sorry I do not have time to participate in a group. I saw the word "BITOG" or Bob Is The Oil Guy website. That website is and always has been a revenue/income generating website for its owner. It has many sponosors and the website obviously leans towards its sponsors. So there is someone out there or a small group which makes their income off of this site and those running it are very sensitive as to what gets posted. I even believe many of the aliases are simply "staff members" with multiple accounts controlling the Narrative. At one point they had a guy with a Durango who did a 25000 mile oil change with a sponsors product.

Thus anything on that website needs to be taken with a grain of salt.

I would not post on that site because I would be an unpaid content provider helping someone make their income from behind a desk.

We agree. Look closely at our name. Some here founded BITOG before it turned.

Grumpy Bear · April 1, 2025

On 3/30/2025 at 11:30 AM, customboss said:

Consider that maybe using a non recommended viscosity is masking the ROOT PROBLEM CAUSE.

OR...the OEM call out IS THE ROOT CAUSE.

What was GM's first cure for the issue in the Ecotec I-4? SHORTEN the OCI 30%. What was the second cure? Replacing pistons and rings with zero bore prep. Third cure? Ignore/pay the lawsuits until the platform was retired. This idea that the factory is infallible is silly. It's not just wrong, it's wrong with a purpose! C.A.F.E and EPA. Right isn't even on the radar.

customboss · April 1, 2025

19 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

OR...the OEM call out IS THE ROOT CAUSE.

What was GM's first cure for the issue in the Ecotec I-4? SHORTEN the OCI 30%. What was the second cure? Replacing pistons and rings with zero bore prep. Third cure? Ignore/pay the lawsuits until the platform was retired. This idea that the factory is infallible is silly. It's not just wrong, it's wrong with a purpose! C.A.F.E and EPA. Right isn't even on the radar.

“There you go again”.

Grumpy your beef with the 2.4L would resonate if you were an ignorant consumer. You aren’t.

You HAVE NEVER ANSWERED THE QUESTION POSED OVER AND OVER OF WHETHER OR NOT you followed up on the vapor control solenoids, switches, system to rectify the venting issues of the design which causes gross levels of overfueling.

You are rightfully upset that this design was ignored by you and excess fuels dilution caused damage you couldn’t catch early enough.

I understand. Why before it was under a GM technical bulletin I changed my emissions vent solenoid on the L3B early!

WILL WE EVER GET A STRAIGHT ANSWER FROM YOU?

Whining is worth it.

If you refuse to do anything but up the vis why not consider Redline or RLI and use formulation's that resist your fuels dilute better?

Another consideration 50% of gasoline introduced into oil volume cooks off dynamically at normal operating temps. Take that into consideration on your issues with Dizzy.

Edited April 1, 2025 by customboss

KARNUT · April 1, 2025

27 minutes ago, customboss said:

“There you go again”.

Grumpy your beef with the 2.4L would resonate if you were an ignorant consumer. You aren’t.

You HAVE NEVER ANSWERED THE QUESTION POSED OVER AND OVER OF WHETHER OR NOT you followed up on the vapor control solenoids, switches, system to rectify the venting issues of the design which causes gross levels of overfueling.

You are rightfully upset that this design was ignored by you and excess fuels dilution caused damage you couldn’t catch early enough.

I understand. Why before it was under a GM technical bulletin I changed my emissions vent solenoid on the L3B early!

WILL WE EVER GET A STRAIGHT ANSWER FROM YOU?

Whining is worth it.

If you refuse to do anything but up the vis why not consider Redline or RLI and use formulation's that resist your fuels dilute better?

Another consideration 50% of gasoline introduced into oil volume cooks off dynamically at normal operating temps. Take that into consideration on your issues with Dizzy.

What we’ve learned, or at least I did. If you want longevity you have to put in more effort. Change everything more often. Even more often than a money grabbing dealership would recommend. With the exception of Toyota. They actually shot me down when I wanted to have them change my Camry's oil at 5K miles. So the results Dizzy is passing 250K. Mission accomplished. That’s probably as far as I would want to go with mine. At my wife’s yearly rate at 250K miles. Her car would be 25 years old. Same with my Ridgeline. My avalanche at 185k currently is almost 25 years old. The backup trip vehicle, the odyssey. Would be the same. I think that’s long enough.

Grumpy Bear · April 1, 2025

I think your hearing/eyes is/are going @customboss. I answered your questions. The vent system is good. The rings are done. End of discussion. Ask ten more times and the answer will be he same. Damage is done. Damage that had I known when she was new what I know now....would have never happened to begin with. I can't fix what happened yesterday but I'm a idiot if allow the same snake to bite me twice.

To your other question which has also be 'asked and answered' repeatedly. The motor is TOAST. I'm not dropping expensive oil in a dead motor to watch it go out the tail pipe.

I'm very aware the fuels in oil reaches an equilibrium and that number reported on the UOA in your lab on my report with that viscosity is that value that has the effect on viscosity in the sump and what is below the second ring. What happens above the top ring is what it is. Regardless of the oil being used.

To the statement that one base oil resist better than another.....Yes....BUT not in any meaningful way. Makes a 2 point drop a 1.95 point drop. Number games. Marketing but not useful and I'm trying very hard, perhaps to hard to be USEFUL.

customboss · April 1, 2025

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I think your hearing/eyes is/are going @customboss.

You THINK? You are smarter than that.......don't keep trying to TF people here... its irritating but not as much as my urinary tract is after today....

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The vent system is good.

"Good" You realize there will be no MIL code set for a sticking or failed emissions vent solenoid or valve in incorrect commanded position right?

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The motor is TOAST.

The PLEASE stop bringing DIZZY (the reamed out GM2.4L) as proof text of all your tribological knowledge, FFS!

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I'm not dropping expensive oil in a dead motor to watch it go out the tail pipe.

Oh really? EVEN IF IT HOLDS A BETTER DYNAMIC VISCOSITY????

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I'm very aware the fuels in oil reaches an equilibrium

NO IT DOESN'T, who told you that, not me. Not the data.

While I had a very long medical boroscope ( shoved up my urethra today) viewing my ginormous prostate pushed all the way to my swollen chemically damaged piss bag ( bladder) I thought to myself..... WHY IS GRUMPY SUCH A DICK????

THE GASOLINE FUELS DILUTION WE READ STATIC IN A VOLUME OF ENGINE OIL VIA GC CAN BE 50% HIGHER DYNAMICALLY!!! Get that? In DIZZY LORD KNOWS WHAT SHE IS SPEWING.

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Regardless of the oil being used

WRONG AGAIN SPORT. IF YOU ran your high ester oils it would ADSORB a significant level of raw gasoline helping stabilize DIZZY, how much I don't know DEPENDS ON THE ESTER BASE IN USE AND HOW MUCH OF THAT LUBRICANT BASE VOLUME IN THE FORMULATION. For goodness sake never follow my instructions but whine when you don't and get PISS POOR RESULTS.

2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

BUT not in any meaningful way.

You'll never know because you would PREFER to banter and whine and cry testing my dementia laden metal over and over and over again......

Hey Mr VISCOSITY DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO ACTUALLY STABILZE THE VISCOSITY OF FUEL LADEN ENGINE OIL but whine and cry about all the usual subjects......MARKETING, LIARS, DONALD TRUMP, GENGHIS KHAN, GM, FORD, EVERY ENGINE OIL but REDLINE and DAVE who retired. Made some of those up for humor to break your never ENDING whining....

I'm not angry but you sure test the waters don't you. "Physician heal thyself".

You are NOT a good helper.......